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Look, as I keep saying. If you want confirmation? Just pull the bevelbox and pull out the pinion carrier and pinion. You wouldn’t hesitate to pull the back wheel if you had a flat tire would you? Well it’s the same deal and then four more nuts that hold the bevelbox on. Once it’s on the bench all that is required to pull out the pinion carrier is to separate the flange from the casing. Sometimes it will simply pull out with a tug on the pinion. Sometimes you need to give the flange a couple of biffs with a hammer and drift to get it to separate a bit and then you can pry it forward until it comes loose and you can pull it out. Once it’s out the head of the pinion is staring you in the face. All these bevelboxes are essentially the same. All the way through from the T3 to the last of the California 1100’s. Yes there are differences in the lengths of the spacers in the box and these are easily swapped, then there was a change in about 2002 to the depth of the spline spigot in the crownwheel carrier, your Quota will need one of the earlier type. Apart from that the earlier Tonti boxes had 7/33 gear sets rather than the 8/33 of the Quota and of course the case has a shock mount on it whereas yours has a rubber bung filling the hole. Older Cali bevelboxes must be ten a penny in the US. Mark at Guzzi Classics probably has a dozen of them! If this had happened to me I’d just be buying a Cali box, checking it was sound and sticking it on. There is no need for it to be a Quota bevelbox. I can’t stress strongly enough. If you did ride 200 miles without oil there will be serious damage and you are taking a great risk riding it further. It will not of escaped unscathed.

A saying from old timers who worked on Pratt and Whitney radial engines; "if you can read a part number on chips in the filter, its time to pull the engine" Not helpful I know, but a great story. 😀

One aspect that is difficult to interpret is the amount of metal on the drain magnet in 50-100 miles versus what we expect at the typical change interval (12,000 miles?). If we see 12,000 miles worth of wear in a very short time, that could be telling. Also, if the hardening of the gear teeth has been damaged from overheating, the wear may accelerate (more and more debris at short intervals). This may be detectable without fully changing the oil every time, but inspecting and cleaning the drain magnet routinely. Certainly, if the size and nature of the debris changes from the typical "filings" to larger pieces and flakes, the damage to the engagement surfaces would be suspect . . .

I guess I like boats, fishing and girls. Not necessarily in that order.

Yes, that is all on the schedule, just not for tommorow. I'm currently in the market for a round tuit.

Not sure of @activpop's motivation, but there is a beautiful GarWood at 2:09-2:14 to contribute to the happy theme . . .

Fishing for girls in a boat, maybe? I think I'd be up for that.

Modern cars have anti syphon components built into the fuel filler tube. Motorcycles don't as that would be impractical on a motorcycle and adversely affect the tank capacity so they use a locking cap instead. Phil

PM me your address Mick and I'll send some over. We can work out the postage later. Phil

Just for the sake of completeness, the muffler has found a new owner.

07 Norge Sachs shock rebound adjuster now spins freely without stopping? I accidentally turned it a bit too far, and the small bb that causes the click inside the rebound still functions, but it spins endlessly.I have my old stock unit for parts to replace it, but I cannot figure out why it spins endlessly. Did I somehow "flatten" a ramp inside? Can it be fixed? How do I remove the working unit from the used shock and install it on the new used model installed on the 07 Norge? It seems to be a press fit, but why it won't stay or how to fix it is unknown at this time. I have the SAG adjusted perfectly but rebound is unknown.

That drain magnet is telling me to move on. I would not risk a rear wheel lockup giving your scene of events. You are hesitant to do a rear pull and replace because you don't know where the rear came from? Well, you can say that about any 25 year old used machine. Who really knows what the bikes real history is. If you are dealing with reputable MG shops, they might know the history. You're right, it's a gamble, always is. I can go with only what I know, that rear is shot.

If I had a boat like that, I would most likely be able to die happy.

The oil cost is peanuts compared to replacing the ring gear and the pinion. I found a used one on eBay, for 200 USD. But it looks rough, and the seller says he was unable to tell me the mileage. I am saving the drained oil. The shavings are not much different from those I have gotten before on other oil changes.

Last summer a guy up here had clutch trouble with his V11. It was the slave cyl. Visible grazes on the piston. Flat on the back side, doesn't need much room to remove. Not many around, found 2 in Denmark last year. Rivets let go on my Rosso Corsa clutch = no clutch. Changing the clutch is like having desert compared to interweb and likes. Cheers Tom.

That is why I got an Oberon fuel cap for the red frame and stuck the old cap in the box and put it above the doorway . Problem : it has been up there so long the part # has faded away and I can't remember the application to get the right one ?

No doubt for some people a locking gas cap is useful. It would prevent both people stealing gas from your tank and also prevent people from putting foreign objects / substances into your tank. I don't live or frequent places where a locking gas cap is overly useful to me. I really don't need one. That said, the V11 Sport came with a locking gas cap and the OP is having and issue where that locking mechanism is stuck. To be fair, it could be stuck even if it wasn't a locking gas cap. Unless your gas cap is screw on, most all gas caps have some sort of mechanism to secure it to the gas tank. Whether that mechanism uses a key or just a knob doesn't really enter into it, unless you think a gas cap that secures with a knob you twist would be less likely to seize up then the stock mechanism operated with a key. That could be true, but either way the OP needs to free up his current presumably key operated mechanism now. gstallons suggestion to make sure the key being used operates the seat lock and / or steering lock before you get too crazy with it. It is always possible that it is not the right key. I don't know about others here, but I have tried to use the wrong key on a motorcycle.

IDK how much the oil costs but I'd do it again in 100 miles because you are getting the wash of the interior of the assy. I assume you are saving this fluid and "shavings" from the drain plug ?

After reading a lot of literature about that same subject on the web, I have decided to repeat the fill with fresh oil, short run, and check. See if the amount of burrs changes one way or the other.

I did 10 miles on I-10 following yesterday's oil change. Here's the oil drain plug; I am going to have to open le pont arrière.

1) no strikingly alarming noise so far 2) to be ascertained 3) the Quota transmission was always extremely clunky and noisy. In fact, the gear box noise covers just about everything else. At the beginning, I was worried that something could be wrong. 4) No blueish color, but I could only check the ring gear. Unless I purchase an endoscope with light. I think the oil is going to be the tattle tell. Even if I am optimistic, since I did not feel anything wrong with the gear ring teeth, and they were still greasy.

You won't find a slick. It will just spit the tiny amount of gear oil the bevel box carries onto the rear wheel/tyre and fling it everywhere in a spray. It won't be like losing a sump plug and dumping 4 or 5 litres of oil on the road. Phil

Every now and then I'm reminded why I do this. 220 miles without oil! I'm thinking the drive escaping this unscathed is about zero. You could fill it up and run it for a few miles and check the mag plug again and drained oil as docc suggested but I'm thinking it will be a long shot. Phil

Says you. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1490