Leaderboard

I felt poor pulling the Krauser Kluge up next to those Sophia Lorens!

I love how that photo matches the cartoon in your signature!

FACs or Bitubo's, FACs have a lower compresion damping than the Bitubo's. FACs are imho nicer when riding a bit sportive and in tight turns. Bitubo's are more comfortable for relaxed-touring.

Often a much underestimated motorcycle, I really love the SP1000 and had quite a few friends riding it on day trips that would take us 3 days on a V11 Sport. It was one of the favorit bikes for the "Amstelario" 1300km consistency tour from Amsterdam to Mandello (from 70ties to 2002). Over here in the Netherlands we have an affordable electronic ignition that is mounted on the existing tower, it includes the advance and has no wasted spark. The link is: https://swf-ignitionsystems.nl/ . I would really advise this system. It works robustly on my California 2 for more than 110.000km. I use Electronic Sachse as well on a LM3, but the wasted spark (it is on the cranckshaft) results in occasional back-fires (and losing the carburator :-) ) . It is working all right, but in heavy rain the back-fires increase. Maybe a rubber flap at the end of the front-fender would reduce the spray on the generator cover. ES is a bit less suitable for all weather conditions. There are however different advance curves that you can choose and it has an elctronic output for a rev-counter, all of this is not needed for the SP1000. My earlier experience with the 850 LeMans II standard ignition was not bad, but later in the '00 the quality of the contactbreakers became poorer because the runners are not nicely parallel to the nock. The wear in the beginning (500-1000km) was very large. This LM2 is from the same production era as the SP1000. I would say the later square fins are made of better aluminium. I have put helicoils in practically every M6 hole of the head and sump (and yes I used a special calibrated 10Nm torque wrench ) The PHF36 carburators do not fit automatically to the SP1000. It is made for the VHB30 carbs. Are you sure it is not a PHF30 that is mounted? Otherwise, I would assume the previous owner replaced the cilinder heads as well. I thought the original SP had steel cilinder liners (or cast iron). When only 33.000 miles on the clock they could still be in. The sump extension and every other thing to improve the breathing of the engine block for volume pumping is good to do (the LM2 and 3 have a Agostini breather box that has twice the volume of the original). But still I have occasional blow-outs when riding 5500rpm at the highway for a long time. The best solution that works for me is a vent tube from the breather-house that is only going up, to prevent a siphon effect (is that correct english). I let the tube end at a 1/2 liter oil can. I did change the camchain and spanner of the Cali 2 at 180.000km, but actually only the plastic of the spanner was hardened. After cleaning it became flexible again (?). Of course I trhrew it away for I don't like these unpredictable behaviours, but the question is what the cause of this hardening would have been. No further problems, except that I heard a rattling from the cam chain that triggerd my mechanical nerve. I think you will have a lot of fun with the SP1000, an unbreakable machine

A Porsche in a Ghia's clothing . . .

At "idle", about 1100 rpm (no battery light) : About 2000-2500 rpm (no battery light) :

Perhaps more than two faults. I am trying to fashion a way to see voltages at the regulator reference connector at various states (KOEO, idle, +rpm) . . . I am staged to partially insert the connector, attach two separate DMM to the exposed, but inserted, legs and see what those reference and warning light voltages do . . . The set up:

Yes, I think so too. I think it might possibly be related to the charge light not coming on KOEO, but I don't think that is the cause of the charging issue(s) either. I still suspect that there are more than one fault, and that this is confusing the issue(s) somewhat.

Thanks for that, @Joe. There was a Karmann Ghia somewhere in there, which reminded me of this. I haven't ever seen it, just read about it on the Interweb. Sounds like fun, though. https://www.bader-racing.de/en/home/home_news.htm A quote from the site:

That looks like an open circuit = no connection. But if that is between the wire itself and ground, that is to be expected. What I'm interested in is not the incoming wire to ground, but the connection that it plugs on to to ground. And under various conditions: key on, engine off. Engine running. Engine running at the revs where the light has been going on. Ideally: connect the DMM, see what it is showing, turn on the key, see what the DMM is showing, start the motor, see what the DMM is showing, slowly increase the revs and observe what the DMM shows during this. What I'm interested in is if the regulator is switching that contact to ground as it should, or at least under which conditions it is doing so.

Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

That's the best looking Tenni deal I've seen in recent memory. $6k / 11k mi. and looks well kept. The clutch swap shouldn't matter. If the owner isn't sure then it likely has not been addressed. Buy it - fix it.

Well its in the back of the van so I guess well know more in the coming days. Will give it a good once over and get a few miles on it and see how it goes. Thanks

It’ll still need a decent camchain tensioner and you’d be mad not to throw a chain at it at the same time. The fork dampers will be #@$&@#@ if they are the original sebacs, they used to blow as they rolled the bike off the end of the production line. Throw a set of FAC’s into it.

If I recall the lore correctly, that faring was the last outcome from the iconic Mandello wind tunnel.

My first big block was an SP1000, I’ve owned a couple more over the years. They are yer basic, small valve, short head Tonti from the late seventies/early eighties and have one of the best and most effective fairings ever put on a motorbike. They are a mile muncher par excellence and will sit all day at 85-90mph. Most important thing to remember is that they are now all 40-45 years old and, unless they have been loved and refurbished, will invariably need work. Most likely things are frame bearings, all of them and a UJ support bearing and possibly a UJ. Fork dampers and shocks will need replacing if they haven’t been already. A camchain and tensioner for the motor at a bare minimum and the carburettors will be shagged out. Expect to buy a wiring loom from Greg Bender and replace the original that will likely crumble to dust when you touch it! My last one I built a mid valve 950 motor with a K cam in it and ran 36mm PHF carbs. It had an 8/33 bevelbox and an Eldorado flywheel. It was an absolute hoot! My mate Steve from Moruya owns it now. It’s a peach!

An mx5 here in Australia. I saw a longish Youtube history of the car a little while back. Very interesting.

heres my v7 sport from 1973. its been molested over the years and probably only v7 sport on it is the gearbox/engine and frame. still a lovely rig to ride. racing gearbox 1 up 4 down.

heres the tonti that got me my first v11 a few years ago, after building my alu 1100cc tonti bike i had alot of bits and bobs over.. , built this bike from spares and an sp2 frame. someone offered me a his v11 lemans as trade and i took it and never been happier.

If classic Tonti’s are the big blocks Lino’s must be the ‘lil small blocks