MartyNZ

I fitted a Wilbers 641-519-01 to my 03 long frame bike. It's an easy swap. It is 5mm longer than the original Sachs Boge. Sachs: 280.5mm center to center. Wilbers: 285.4mm. I only realized the extra shock length when the rear tire just touched the ground while on the maintenance stand, after I fitted the new shock and a new tire.

That doesn't seem right! What's your source?

Here is a pic of the intake air path on a 2003 model.

Item 19 is important. The shape improves airflow into the throttle body. It's called "velocity stack", "bellmouth", or "trumpet", and you should try hard to get the right parts. Have you checked to see if they are wedged into whatever gravel strainer pod filters you had before?

Someone with the same name as you asked that question in 2021. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23134-v11-breather-tubes/page/2/#elControls_267496_menu

1. Style. Guzzi manages to make good looking bikes. 2. Handling. Up there with the best. 3. Brand allegiance.

I've had a new battery electric car for the last 6 months. It has all the safety features to qualify for ANCAP rating 5, and I don't regret buying it. It should engage auto braking for a bike (if I don't see it) but I'm not going to test it. Some of the critics of my choice say things that have the same tone as comments I've heard through the decades. "Tubeless tires? No thanks". "Multi-grade oil? Not for me". "Don't like auto transmission, I want to be in control". "Don't like seat belts, I want...". So yeah, I like a modern car. Even stranger are the criticisms of an electric car. "They catch fire". -Less often than ICE cars. "We're going to run out of Lithium" -It's 3rd element in the periodic table. There's shit-tons of it around. "It's mined with slave labor". -Australia is currently producing 1/2 of the world's supply, and those miners are extremely well paid. "Lithium batteries can't be recycled ". - obvious nonsense. Yes I have a 20 year old Guzzi, but I like modern stuff.

There's a lot of discussion about cold performance of lithium batteries, but I have never noticed an issue. Push button - engine starts. But then I'm a fine weather rider too.

https://shoraipower.litema.com.au/contact/ SHORAI AUSTRALIA CONTACTS PHONE: 07 5504 5595, MOBILE: 0412 170 020 I fitted a LFX21L6-BS12 way back in 2016, still going strong. You should consider buying the dedicated charger for storage and "balance charging".

I'm happy with mine. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30633-share-your-lithium-battery-experience-cold-environment-durability-else/#comment-289414

Good job. Better suspension, lower unsprung weight. How does it handle? I've been wondering if there is a tire that has lower weight. A cheap way to reduce unsprung weight? I've not been able to find any info on this. I weighed a new Bridgestone Battlax 120/70ZR17 T32 at 4.39kg, and a worn BT023 at slightly heavier. Have you weighed any tires?

Have you seen this post?

Woah, before you buy a new regulator, how about cutting out the bad connector, and crimping the wires. A bad connector doesn't mean you have a bad regulator

+1. I think that a poor ground from the regulator to the bike is the reason for many overcharged batteries and failed regulators.

The pinch bolts make the yoke quite tight on the spline, and there may be some slight distortion of the yoke where it touches the spline. A sharp edge can get swaged/smeared so it touches the end of a spline tooth in the recess for the pinch bolts, that will make it hard to remove. Assuming there's no rust, I'd try opening the pinch slot of the yoke with wedges (big flat bladed screwdrivers) then tapping & levering.

My bike has always been the same as your bike. I don't plan to change it. The open end of the centre sliding spline faces back, so less road spray can get inside, but spline lubrication may be slightly worse with the grease nipple at the low end. As for alignment of the 2 halves of the shaft, the yokes on the shaft must be on the same plane, and the yokes on the gearbox/transmission at each end also on their own plane which is 90° turned. If it is wrong, your gearbox, shaft, and rear transmission feel torsional vibration. This would be bad. See the video pointed out by @Chuck https://youtu.be/5aCK4Bob6a0

Everyone has a favorite, so you are unlikely to get complete agreement on the best. It's hard to go wrong with the popular brands, as @GuzziMoto said. Have you seen this post: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/28190-a-test-report-for-v11-tyres/

Brad. what kind of file did you use for the inventory? I had trouble reading it.

I got a spare lid from @Scud some years ago. I had grand plans to modify it for my bike, but decided that I liked the standard airbox so didn't use it. Also no chick in NZ seemed to dig it, so if I still have it, you can have it for nix +shipping cost. PM me. Shipping from NZ to UK varies from eye-watering to arm/leg/first born, so be warned.

Have you seen this: Front brake disc 320 mm, Griso 1100, 307,97 € (hmb-moto.de) 307,97 € or even cheaper: Front brake disc 320 mm, V11, Cali EV, Jackal, Stone etc., 199,00 € (hmb-moto.de) 199,00 € Röttenbach is just down the road about 7 hours away from Gld Moto Guzzi manual lists part number GU01613330 Front brake disc, quantity 2

Chain drive? I think this is a rebadged Benelli. Cool restoration

The Sport 1100i manual says "Absolute pressure transducer. This transducer is powered by the electronic control centre and gives information about the absolute pressure in the air filter box. This transducer is connected to the filter box through a small pipe. Its output signal will produce a correction signal as function of the barometrical pressure". On the V11 there is a pressure transducer built into the ECU.

I looked at one end of the driveshaft in my spare parts box, the one with the grease nipple. It doesn't have a relief hole in it, so I expect that it is in the other end. I wonder if the "hole" is actually a partially burst disk or frost plug fitted in the end of the shaft. Maybe excess grease has made it's own escape path. I think that making sure that old grease is removed, and a clear relief hole is a good idea.

On my bike, that hole looks more like an imperfection when it was made, but nevertheless it is necessary. Old grease gets thicker over years as the oil seeps out, leaving mostly the thickner/soap behind. If possible I try to scoop out or flush out old grease. Your picture appears to show fresh grease, which would be thinner (and better).

There's a hole in the back end of the shaft to allow excess grease to escape from inside. If that hole was blocked, then suspension movement would break something. Grease will cause a hydraulic lock.