leroysch

......or

They said Italian bikes are a chick magnet. My current experience is that they're all re-coiled.

I've given up trying to be O-ring efficient and started an O-ring parts bin..right next to the bin containing a myriad of Cu sealing washers. First addition...99 #112'S of the Viton persuasion. Those of unknown pedigree I use in place of those plastic washers generally used where bodywork is involved. Keeping track of those things is worse than trying to find a 10mm socket.....

..and your notes (which I used, referenced somewhere else on this forum...TY) are exactly right! Reinstalled with new O-ring, reused shims, and fired her up uneventfully. Need to get the oil viscosity down before I'll render a final verdict.

Had noticed accumulated grime about the timing sensor, so........... Three 0.6mm shims and an O-ring which had acquired and retained a square profile. Note to self: If you don't see an O-ring or land once the sensor is removed, ensure you have all the shims off the motor.

This tee came up in the rotation.....

I've never had any luck using ARC functionality. Frustrated, I wound up using a universal remote from Harmony to control TV, DVD, amps, satellite receiver, A/V processor. With respect to over the air TV, I suspect the TV manual would provide instructions on how to send audio to other devices if that capability exists...looking at the back of my TV I was surprised to find a dedicated "Audio Out" optical connection.

Winter does provide time to do known maintenance...and sometimes provide answers to minor quirks which are noted during the riding season but insufficient to cause one (well, me) to launch an investigation while the weather is good. I had noticed some variability in my idle RPM's and variable engine braking effects while riding late in the season. Had the bike on the lift for..chores... and noticed this end of the throttle cable wasn't properly seated. The lead-in abutted the bracket, wasn't fitting thru it. (Pic shows it fixed) Ahhh...the little things......

Discovered why my dash mounted voltmeter wasn't working. While there was a brief moment of triumph, it was quickly displaced by

It's more in the headlamp assy's bucket. The fairing is off the bike. One end abuts the inside of the chrome bezel which helps secure the headlamp assy to the bucket, the other end abuts the nut clip attached to the tang in the bucket which, with the screw, secures the bezel to the bucket....at least I hoped that is what happened since it's a blind install.

Thx 80CX. I've got the same part securely fastened to the bike. I reassembled the headlight using the "spacer" about that bottom center screw. The minor corrosion deposits on the spacer at each end aligned with deposits on the screw, and along with the screw/spacer OD/ID consistency..well....too much of a coincidence not to believe that's where it was installed.

Had good luck using this Motion Pro gizmo bleeding the clutch. Just make sure its fully seated..there's a gasket thing in the socket to direct the fluid thru the tube. If you decide to tackle this before a tire change, removing the starter motor et. al. provided decent access.

Headlamp had burned out (connector has power) on the V11 and she needs a new front tire...so on the lift she goes. Fairing removed (for my piece of mind in case getting it up on the OEM stand goes awry) and in the process of removing the headlamp from its bucket this hollow cylindrical thing falls to the floor (headlamp included for scale). Can't make out any internal threads, and the ID is consistent with the OD of that bottom center screw that allows the headlight to be removed from the bucket. Nothing jumped out at me in the PL/exploded view for the headlight. Is it a spacer thru which the aforementioned bottom center screw fits before it engages the clip in the bucket?

I was eyeballing a guy's HD at a vendor in Florida and noticed a toggle switch around the passenger pillion...asked what it was for. Wellllll.....it wasn't for a heated seat (in the conventional sense).

OEM, never installed, includes rack, brackets, fasteners and instructions. $170 shipped CONUS.

Between the wiring and the kick stand, guess we all have a stake in these ground beef's.

Damn these essay questions.....

I was able to squeeze one in right here....

Ditto. Using the OEM stand and a scissor's jack under the sump, the bike is very stable. I've had the bike up/down/up/downon the lift, tank off/on/off/on, etc. with this configuration without a worry. Only pucker factor I encounter is the use of the OEM stand (with sockets to the appropriate bike nuts) raising and lowering the bike. I have a cheater pipe safety wired to the OEM stand...for reasons you can infer. (You would think an ex-flatbed owner/operator would have known better...)

...and on my 916, it stays amber at idle....until the cooling fans kick in and turns red (at idle). At times, I find it useful to have that confirmation correlated with the coolant temperature gauge. On the V11, I just mounted a cheapo voltmeter to get confirmation of RPM dependent battery charging overvoltage.

Inspected the plugs, intakes...cleaned out the sump and strainer...and got around to cleaning the air box which had been laying on the bench. I was surprised by the amount of fluid which had pooled inside (~ 1ml or so) and got curious. Looks like the air box has a false bottom ending near the aft end. In any event set this up to help mop up whatever cares to dribble down. Will rotate it 180 degrees and see if anything comes out from below the false bottom. I know, OCD...but might as well satisfy my curiosity while it's off the bike...

Dry outside....oil trail starts inside the airbox (at the front) where the tube enters. Oil trail exits the air box about the external grommet surrounding the LH boot. Just to see, I'll check the LH/RH boot inner surface and engine interface for residue comparison.

Yeah..it's on the LH side...mine didn't have a clamp on it.

"The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box." Ummmmm....

Appreciate the above places to look. Removed the tank and air box to get a better look at the situation. The breather pipe (goes from the bottom front of the spine to the top of the motor just aft of the Vee, right?) looks clean along its length and interfaces as does the return line from the side of the spine to the sump adjacent to the drain plug (right?). The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box. The airbox itself was reasonably clean and the filter wasn't oil fouled. I'm assuming that if either the crankcase vent or return line was the culprit, I'd be able to see evidence of their malfeasance somewhere along their runs. Reading thru various forum threads my understanding of what's going on here is that the crankcase breather vents thru that big tube going to the bottom front of the spine where two subsequent paths: one to the airbox; the other thru the spine to the sump return line. Please correct my thinking if wrong. At this point I'm going to check/compare the plugs....drop the sump...scope out the situation while doing a oil/filter change...and button her back up and keep an eye on things.