Pressureangle

Spoke with Dave Blue today. Just to put it to rest, he's a great guy and under no suspicion of inadequacy, all a misunderstanding on the part of the previous owner- who is also a decent guy and under no aspersions. He still has the transmission, in the same condition it came to him in. I found the rear cover in question in a box of parts that came with the bike, so they'll eventually be reunited. Dave wasn't even certain why it was sent to him as the recall had been done previously. I suppose I'll need a shift return spring- was that @Chuck who has them? Gotta learn a whole new box now lol

FWIW in this thread, I'm a Navistar Defense Master Field Service Representative. (Navistar Defense qualification is identical to Navistar proper) We were issued full-stack military PCs with diagnostic software for every wheeled vehicle the military owned at the time. (2007-2010) HOWEVER only the International/Navistar software was unlocked on our PCs. The military was issued a service package with every new vehicle which had *all* of the software unlocked; of course, nobody knew how to use it and for them to take full advantage of the diagnostics, they needed someone like me from each relevant company to teach them (Navistar, Allison, OshKosh, BAE etc.) so I had a few years to sort through the specifics and politics of it; at the end of the day, it has *NOTHING* to do with warranty, or safety, or data security. It has *EVERYTHING* to do with licensing revenue. Simple As.

Doing dumb stuff falls into the category of 'non-sustainable business model' so isn't really an issue. Of course the farmer- or construction site operator- can change a tire, track, axle, wheel, etc. The mechanical bits were never at issue. The real problem is that relatively simple repairs like replacing an injector pump or crankshaft sensor is no longer possible because the system has to be reprogrammed.

https://www.thomasnet.com/insights/ftc-john-deere-lawsuit-right-to-repair/

As an addendum to this, on my '97 1100 Sport, the starter was siezing over time and making me think the battery was at fault. I put 2 alternative new batteries in it, but in cranked slow, hard to start, multiple attempts until ultimately it siezed completely. The numbers are in another thread somewhere, but bench testing iirc showed no less than 80 amps, and when stalled around 350 amps. That's plenty enough to drop the voltage of even a new battery below the break point. So, check your starter; perhaps you have a DC clamp amp probe?

That sounds to me like you're going to have to resign yourself to 'search and destroy' mode. Every connector in every relevant circuit needs to be inspected and cleaned (Kaig DeOxit, aerosol on Amazon) I like to start from easy, working as necessary to hard; the suggestion to drain the fuel is not a bad one. I had enough water collecting in the injection hoses/barbs to give me fits a couple seasons ago. But since you know you have a voltage issue, the only thing remaining is to find the poor connection, or prove the ECU to be the problem by the test above- it isn't clear if your low voltages are at the sensors or actually at the ECU pin. Sometimes it be like that. Do you have a good clear schematic of the wiring for your particular bike?

Simple, really- More is Bettern.

Worse, nobody knows what they mean except 'more is better'. Why do I have to add 2 to those lines to get the grade? What the heck is a 'grade' anyway? Perhaps the Metric numbers are 'thousands of psi' tensile strength. Oh wait, 'K of kilograms' or something.

El Paso got a half-inch of snow at the New Year, which delayed my departure a few days. I remember first time passing through EP in 1980, a small diner we ate at had a framed poster on the wall of about a half-inch of snow; they said it was 'about ten years ago' and the first time anyone there could remember seeing it.

Unwise to use a test light on a 5v reference circuit, the SMD in the ECU can be damaged. DMM only for safety. I went back and read the OP more carefully. There's this- '2. Check the ECU. When I check high and low signal from the batter to the ECU, I see 10V for both instead of the aforementioned 2.5 and 1.5 V. Is this significant and direct it down to my wiring harness? ' If I read correctly, your ECU is seeing only 10 volts? If that's the case, you have either a bad battery (asked and answered) or you have a failure in the circuit between battery and ECU. By now you must have tested cables and connections, yes? Voltage drop across all cables and connections in the circuit to find the drop. I don't know what's under the seat, but if it's a megafuse I had one that defeated the entire crew for an hour and me for a minute- it had blown, but the carbon tracing carried enough current to light up a test lamp, and the fault was only revealed by removing the fuse and visually seeing the blow. It passed all the tests in situ. Vehicle electronics typically self-protect at about 9.5 volts DC, and you're right on that margin.

I don't know the wiring particulars of this bike, or modern 'Guzzi scheme, but if it was your car I'd say that you have a hot wire shorted to the sensor circuit source wire. The sensor source is typically 5 volts out to the sensors on a common feed, with individual returns to be read to the ECU. That all the sensors read 'high' means that either every sensor has failed shorted at the same time, or that 12 volts has found it's way into the 5volt feed line. Has the ECU been unplugged recently? A bent pin can do this. You can test this theory by using your multimeter to read voltage at the sensor connector with everything else connected and the ignition on. Assuming they use the common 5v sensor scheme.

While I appreciate the metric system for it's simplicity, I laugh out loud over the surrounding environment. For instance, American engineers produced the only machinery I've ever seen with 16 and 18mm fastener heads. I think it's simply a middle finger to metric. Having grown up with SAE, I'm perfectly comfortable with it, and for many common fasteners I'll grab whatever wrench comes to hand if it fits- 11mm to 7/16", 14 to 9/16", 17 to 11/16" etc. It's your eye that matters, if you can see the size tool you need by looking at the fastener, you're good to go. Given the use of the word 'spanner' I'm going to suggest the passenger side are Whitworth.

Here's the deep dive into stepped exhaust headers. https://www.performanceracing.com/magazine/columns/03-01-2023/pri-tech-stepped-pipes-vs-straight-pipes

Now I just have to find a Roper Rusty Star Picket plate.

Just signed up. I'd suggest that next year they add at least as an alternative something farther West. Rosa's Cantina in El Paso, perhaps. I would love to do the ROT tour but probably wouldn't have the time, as it is I'm going to bang out the stops on the way from Michigan to El Paso in one go.

Be careful what you wish for

Does this mean that you guys will let me be a proper member and not just the gear-short mascot?

Ah, good. Let's be clear, he didn't call Dave a thief. It was said that the transmission went to Dave at Barber, and it wasn't seen again, and 'follow up calls' didn't (get resolution) He did *not* say 'Dave stole my transmission', and I was not interested in hearing the sad tale, as I knew what I was buying. That said, I would very much like to have the original box back in the bike. There is one box of parts I missed loading that I'll collect this weekend, I have no idea if any trans parts are there. If Dave has money in to the trans, (assuming he still has it) I have no problem covering that bill; also, I have no interest in involving the original owner as that ship apparently sailed years ago. I'll speak directly to Dave about it, if that works PM me and I'll give my contact information. If Dave wants the original owner's contact information to affix the headstone to their conversations, I'll ask him this weekend if that's ok with him.

I'd like to think there's some simple explanation or rebuttal, there was of course a bit more to the story but I'm not one to air dirty laundry in a public forum- I had no idea Dave was a well-known and apparently respected expert. I don't know this seller personally either, so there's that.

I thought the oil-sump air filter was a feature, not a bug.

https://firepowerparts.com/spark-plug-cap-sb05e-replaces-ngk-8374/ Here's another one that may be a better fit- of course, I have no 8v nor this plug boot to hand, but if it was me I'd waste the money on a set to try. https://firepowerparts.com/spark-plug-cap-xb05f-replaces-ngk-8062/

Prices look ok, but I'm always a bit peeved at businesses that don't have their street address anywhere to be found.

Right, I forgot CARC aren't technically V11s. My kid has already penciled this in for his touring steed lol

I have the offer above from footgoose, and they seem to be pretty much everywhere- I haven't done any homework into what slips right in. There's a Norge trans, 2012 I think, 160 miles away for $145 claiming to be good out of a wreck. Are all the 6-speeds the same fitment? Hmmm...time to pull out Guzziology.

Well, I only tell the story as I heard it. Crated, delivered at Barber, never to be seen or heard of again. I can give you the engine # if you find he has an 'unclaimed' pile somewhere. Or a different story...