Pressureangle

No idea, and not enough access to the bracket to measure. I'm going to use the 80/20 rule and say Probably.

The bracket is in place on mine, and the bike was so stock and poorly cared for when I bought it I have to believe it is stock.

Ditto reservations.

I might be interested in one of you'd like to reduce your stock to an even two dozen. The simplest thing to do is PM me with your Paypal email, and I'll send an invoice.

I have about 25 of them but not one installed... :/ lol

https://www.ready.gov/cert Our company in Ohio is in, as am I here in Florida.

I worked on RV's for some years. They're full of Maxifuses. I've seen a lot. What you have here is a classic case of 'shyte Chinese fuse'. See how the terminal spade is as thin as the 'fuse blow' bridge? No mystery here, the fuse is very marginal if in fact capable of seeing 30 amps. I'd wager if you blow it intentionally, you won't see 25 amps. It simply overheats the thin area and over time melts the plastic, and heats all the surrounding contacts. Simply shyte, $0.0001 saved on materials x 5 billion pieces. Find a 30A fuse that doesn't have any thin areas besides the blow bridge. You'll probably have to order online, and they'll cost $5.00 each.

I got ten years out of a PC545 in my LeMans. I tried reconditioning it with an electronic battery saver, but it did not respond, something I did find in Odyssey's literature. Not an option apparently, and lost the very expensive 27 series Odyssey in my Charger because the ground fault popped on the trickle charger circuit while I was out of town and left the battery flat for a couple weeks. No recovery possible. On the Lithium note; I put one in my 1100 Sport-i a couple summers ago. It was...marginally satisfactory. It had great cranking power, but very little reserve- my onboard camera has a parasitic drain for a 'parking' mode, and it took enough out of the Lithium that it wouldn't start after standing 24 hours. After standing in the bike for a year disconnected but for 3-4 short rides, it never did start the bike reliably again. I loved the weight but ultimately went back to the Odyssey.

Hey, it's Winter here and Wintertime Navel-Gazing is the U.S. National Winter passtime for bikers.

Now put that 1.5% on the end of a lever the height of the battery. It's noticeable. No, it doesn't really matter.

Well, it's 78* and sunny here...Kinda like a stripper, though- looks great but can't ride it.

I did some forum searching but didn't come up with enough information to satisfy my curiosity; What is the stock '97 1100 Sport-i charging system? What type regulator? What do you see for charging voltage? Has anyone sourced an adjustable regulator? Curious. Went to start today, Lithium battery has apparently departed; never really had as much reserve as I'd have liked anyway. I'll probably go with Odyssey, but I did like the light weight under the seat.

...All that said, after having a close look at https://www.briskusa.com/ , I wouldn't hesitate to try them if the price isn't ridiculous. They seem to cover all the bases.

Here's a little spark plug science for you; Nology plugs I can attest to the fact that some engines really, really hate platinum or iridium plugs; GM 2.4TC, 1990's GM 5.7 TBI. Every engine type and every ignition type has different requirements and peculiarities. I use NGK BPRs in my 'Guzzis. There is rarely any magic in spark plugs; some engines hate some plugs, but as a rule if your engine isn't race-tuned, you'll never notice any difference. Back in racing days I did find that in an 883 H-D sportster, dual-ground strap plugs gave a hint more power and covered up a bit of rich/lean during carb transitions. That could potentially help our dinosaurs, but I've not tested it.

'94 Chevy K2500 extended cab 4x4- 52,000 mile ex-fire department find '68 Dodge Charger.

Dual plugs have a pretty well known effect on any hemispherical engine. I would suggest that if you simply edit the entire curve above about 1500rpm by the same amount, you'll be fine. Depending on mods, -4 to -8 degrees is probably in the ballpark at WOT. For tuning by ear, use 87 octane, find your audible detonation point (probably about 2500-3000rpm) then back off 4º and run premium. If you have a steady-state dyno with exhaust gas analyzer available, you can get more specific. I'd be interested in any real data you discover along the way.

Once upon a time I bought a lightened flywheel set for my '85 LM1000. It was well-machined and well-balanced. There was little discussion and a bit of a brusque brush-off when I pointed out that my stock flywheel was much thicker than the received part. "No difference, been using them forever with zero issues". Now the clutch gets hot and creeps in traffic when the thinner plate warps from heat. It's almost as if Mother Goose knew there was some issue with harder riding and improved the part. C'est la Vie on me, I guess. Then after a couple hundred miles the painted on timing marks disappeared. Oh well. Then there's another guy, who contributes endlessly to the knowledge of the community without asking anything in return, in contrast to the one who claims expertise but never says anything that someone isn't paying for. The end

There are some long threads on riding gear for long tours; After reading a lot and wringing my hands, I did 10k miles and 8 weeks with an Aerostich Roadmaster suit, long sets of Underarmor, Thorlo socks and Gasolina boots. Aside from collecting a Patagonia thin hoody along the way, it was a perfect combination for credit card touring. I had one t-shirt and one pair of jeans, since I spent all my time riding. I would, though it may be heresy, consider having the bike transported and flying in if I didn't have at least a week on either side of the SSR to make the round trip.

I made the trip from SSR 2019 to Port Angeles, WA last year. There is a lot of...something less than exhilarating...geography to cross between corners. How much time do you have to spend? My first thought was to review the Members Map and see what route takes you near other members, may take a bit of the drudgery out of a couple days. Depending on what you're riding, your tolerance for speed risk and saddle sores, I'd say you might make better time on the secondary roads rather than interstate. I came up from Chattanooga to Little Rock to Shawnee OK, Liberal KS, Denver/Cheyenne/Yellowstone/Boseman MT. The only sufferage was western OK and Kansas in September, but though it wasn't exciting it was new and went pretty fast. Gas stops pushed the 1100 Sport's tank capacity to the limit. It's a trip I wouldn't trade for anything, and I'll do again some day when I can spend a bit more time in the places I wished I could have. <edit> oops ya 2018. Time flies.

I've been riding on public roads since 1979. Although I have a couple friends who've been seriously injured by rear ending at lights, not once has it happened to me; I'll chalk that up to good fortune. I have, a couple times, been threatened by squealing tires as someone slid up behind me. Very bad feeling. One friend says he always kept his bike in gear, so we'll assume it didn't do him any good. Most significantly here, is that *NONE* of those times would I have had any time to think about where I'd go if I dumped the clutch. I may have jumped out into a far worse situation, and for no reason at all since none of these events ended in contact. I pop neutral and roll to the stop at low speed.

OTOH mine spit out 100cc from the rear drive through my thought-through but untested rear drive vent on my 10k tour and came home none the worse for wear with ~150cc in it. If it isn't broken down enough to drain out, it isn't broken down enough to want out, I figure. I've used about every high-end gear lube over the years, and never seen anything quite like the RedLine. I have to say though that I put ~35k miles on my LM1000 with Royal Purple gear oil in the drive and it also passed every test, including 5-10 miles of 90mph+ twice a day to work and back.

Yup. Mine ran well cold, but as soon as it got warm started spitting, running erratically, eventually quitting altogether. Next mornings, cold, beautiful again. I eventually ohmed the sensor on the bench with a heat gun, and it opened every time at about 230*F.

Well...there is a better way to be certain you're adding it to the correct space. Owner's manual, YouTube, maybe somebody here has a relevant photo and can add an arrow?