po18guy

IMO, the older the engine design, the weaker the igntion system, the longer the plug leads - all are valid reasons to install Iridium plugs. I am hedging my bet, but I installed Autolite Iridium XS plugs to try out. Starting immediately improved. Visually, even engineering-wise, there is virtually no difference between them and NGK or ND. Except they are made in North America, there are no Chinese counterfeits running around and they are about $7/pair in the US. Sure beats $15/ea. Redline Motorsports in sunny South Carolina is blowing them out for the princely sum of $7.12 per pair w/free shipping. But, I also was patient and scored a pair of NGK Iridiums to have on hand. Comparoing them to the OEM NGKs, it is easy to see that he spark is far less shrouded than with the standard plug. Perhaps there would not be as big a difference with carbs, but with the finely (haha!) metered MM injection, that mixture needs all the access to the spark that it can get. Being familiar with Italian electrics since the late 60s, I might just take MotoLectric up on their cables.

Here is the answer I received from MotoLectric: We use plain copper because when put under multi-ton pressure the copper from the terminals grows into the copper of the wire and they merge into one mass. It’s called cold welding and is done in some other electrical industries. In a vacuum, you can actually put 2 flat pieces of copper together and they instantly merge and there is no 2 pieces anymore, they are now 1 piece. We have planned to document that that is why we use the bare copper but it is on a long list of tasks yet to be done. We actually coat the exposed copper with a Shield product that seals the surface. I have the details below. Tinned terminals and wire is less conductive as tin only flows 15% the current that copper will flow and the crimps are not as good as the tinned copper takes more pressure due to the hardness of the tin vs. copper. The lower current flow of the tin is not a super big deal but every little detail adds up and we want to make the best circuit upgrade we possibly can. ——— [Special shipping update / new version announcement - We are constantly striving to improve our products and we were in the midst of revising the kits (slightly) and you are receiving the very latest design. We now apply a new surface sealant during fabrication of the kit and it replaces the dielectric grease - > (the grease is no longer included in the kit). We found that some riders were forgetting to apply the grease and just leaving the copper bare. This coincides with our product name change to HICAP•SCDC High Capacity • Sealed Current Distribution Circuit This new high technology treatment seals the copper surfaces against harsh environments and so the circuit is 100% sealed. The new version kit has a colored tiewrap through a positive terminal hole because although the chemical is blue in quantity, the treatment is invisible after it bonds to the metal. ——— Thanks,M./Michael Heth1 (415) 992-7840

Since electrons flow on the surface of the wire, could tarnishing or corrosion limit that? Maybe that is what they meant? I recall here also that the cheapest vendor is used on almost all ancillary components and battery lead wires are not likely to be an exception. I also see no tin plating, but perhaps a swab of NoCo or other similar corrosion preventative would do the trick? I have emailed them to see what they say. https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html As to starting in 'one second', well, they are clearly used to port injection. The V11 throttle body injectors squirt quite a ways upstream from the chambers. So far, the best starting aid I have found is Iridium plugs. Noticeably better.

A little retro-thinking here about the tranny crack. From the location and direction of the crack, could it be that the torque being transmitted "stretched" the case as the final output is trying to pull the case away from the mount? A 3.5mm thickness next to the mount boss seems almost certain to go at some point, what with the torque pulses softly hammering away on the alloy. I'm new to MG but one thing immediatley noticeable is that the torque impulses are not resolved into the frame as with transverse engines. Rather than lifting the frame, it is a twisting force. But, I'm a noob, so my thinking may be skewed here.

A bit - OK a big bit - of a stretch, but for the mechanically minded with cash to spare, an '04 Cafe Sport in San Fran for $3500obo with full Ôhlins. Does not look bad, and with 24k (if true), still a relatively fresh bike. Would love to buy it, swap suspension and sell it with my Marzocchi/Sachs bits on it. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/d/san-francisco-2004-moto-guzzi-v11-cafe/7013378638.html

It almost seems like Guzzi designed the entire bike and then thought, "Oh crap! We forgot the coils! Well, the only space left is up front, so we'll just use 1 meter cables." Scenario: Officer: "I was going to let you off with a warning, but I see you're using RACING plug wires!"

I think this is why high-mount cans are a good thing. They rise above all the action - suspension action, that is.

Easy: 1. That impact occurred by design at the factory. 2. Nothing.

Welcome to Guzzi! It's a matter of understanding the Latin mindset. To paraphrase the old joke about the Italian driver pulling the rear view mirror off his car and tossing it in the back set: "What'sa behind me, I no care about" Of note here is that the brackets on the Staintune cans on my Ballabio are at different angels. Note the swingarm on this custom. The pic clearly shows that the wheel is centered but the drive requires that the right side of the swingarm and all around it has to be kicked out for clearance.

They were probably seeking a feather in their hat rather than a money pit. Aprilia had done a lot of heavy lifting for them and they appear to be coasting on the "Italian Harley" theme - as profane as that is.

They may be big girls, but they know how to dance. Oh, and can they sing!

If you notice, the wheel is not exactly centered in the swingarm. The drive unit on the right protrudes further than the brake does on the left. So, the pegs have to move outward to make clearance for swingarm travel. Somewhat like the Lord, the Italians write straight using crooked lines.

Try a pair of these: NGK CR6 individual wires. About $18/per. 5K resistance cap. Other specs are on the eBay listing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-Racing-Wire-90deg-Solid-Resistor-Cover-100cm-90-100cm-8736-N-CR6/333270758936?epid=171310303&hash=item4d987c3618:g:kyQAAOSwv7BdMMC8

I seem to recall they were Canadian blades. It seems to me that all that matters is the mounting thread diameter and pitch and the minimum pressure required to make/break contact. I see that Rock Auto offers a lifetime warranty on their units. Question is, which one fits and functions?

The triple crown! A family portrait including grandpa, son and grandson.

+1. Far easier and better to create, manage and upload than all others I have sampled.

Tridon wiper blade refills are common in the states.

I was just echoing what has gone before. Don't know any X-ray techs, so we're stuck for the time being. One possibility might be to contact the guys who work on air-cooled VWs. The odos in Beetle And Super Beetle gauges fail constantly.

I would think that if one had a thoroughly hashed unit to sacrifice, you could peel it apart and determine the location of the worm gear. Then, find the best location to drill a small hole in the housing for access to the worm gear from outside. Drilling that hole in the housing of a good unit would allow a high quality lube like Mobil1 or Valvoline synthetic grease to be applied to the worm gear by Q-tip or similar, from outside. No need to tear it apart. The access hole could be easily plugged (or even taped over) once done. Am assuming here that it is constructed like most gauges. To tear it apart essentially involves slowly peeling the crimped aluminum rim from around the lens and housing, pulling it apart to do the repair, then finding a way to re-crimp the rim without it looking terrible. Problem is that the crimp most likely compresses the gasket which seals it from the elements.

If you don;t mind one in clicks, here's an NOS Coppa Italia unit in Holland. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-SPEEDO-V11-COPPA-ITALIA-017615600000-GU017615600000-GU0176156-0176/133234636723?hash=item1f056737b3:g:T-gAAOSwCRNdzYAG

Front binders non-radial. Kinda like an Elvis impersonator, but if you squint your eyes just right...

Just for docc: An MGS-01 body kit in oh-so-silver. Here's an interesting game: Find the hidden Centauro...

Would be really nice to see a dyno chart of pre and post flash bikes - no other mods. That, and practical fuel mileage on a designated loop of travel. Beyond the purview of this forum - at least so far...

Ah, who needs one? I heard those high cam engines have nothing but valve train problems. Now, if there was an MGS-01 body kit for V11s, that would be different...

:eating popcorn: