Weegie

Of course I agree with Phil Not much to add on the Sport 1100 and the LM 1000 2 v/v bikes I run 15W/50 oil pressure is stable, even when the bikes get pretty toasty. The Sporti can easily reach 120C (around 250F) sump temp in traffic. When it starts to exceed that the bike quickly becomes unrideable, so oil pressure is academic. In clear air Sporti oil temp is around 80C (176F) although will rise quickly to 100C (212F) The C kit HiCam is a different kettle of fish altogether, run a 10/60 in it, in clear air around 100C (212F), in town I've seen 140C, again totally unrideable by then. Still got idle pressure but dammed little. Of course all the oils are group 4 full synth (so I've been told) Purely anectodal but the only bike I've needed a 10/60 on is the C kit HiCam and that's because of the C kit cams. Earlier HiCams (Daytona and Centauro) without the crazy cams aren't subject to the same heating issues. No C kit cams went into US bikes.

I have a Magni Sfida 1100, essentially a Sporti running the legacy version of MyECU. The installation and map was made by the previous owner of the bike and I haven't messed with it, I've never felt the need. About the only thing I've did is reset the TPS a few times. I'm not fussed on the finer points of how the engine runs, it accelerates pretty well and has more than enough power for my needs Probably a bit on the rich side, it has K&N pods, again it came to me this way. Mine can on ocassion, be a little reluctant to fire up cold, but not to the point I feel the need to mess with it. Just saying you're not alone with this setup

I really like the styling and yet to come across a negative review of the R12S. If looking for retro/hipster/cafe machine with nods to an earlier era but updated then surely it would be worth consdering (if you could afford the hefty price tag) Only criticisms were price and the throttle could be snatchy in Dynamic mode Owning an older sibling to the R12S, an R9T Racer, perhaps the boy's from Bavaria listened to all the comments about the Racer. The biggest flaw was the bars set into the triple clamp coupled to a long tank. I'm 5' 7" and it's a huge stretch, arms locked out most of the time. Many owners installed Helibars, I eventually opted for raised clip ons, but even with these the position is still pretty extreme.

Great to hear from you Roy Hope you stick around a bit more and all is well I took the liberty of hosting some of your electrical sketches on Dropbox for other members to copy as they need. I hope that's Ok with the diagrams are a fantastic resource, let me know. All the Best John

Just to add that Relay 5 has a very hard life powering all that equipment If I were a betting man it's where I'd put my money on which relay will fail first But as @GuzziMoto logical first step is to check for voltage at the pump

Apologies @Steve Swan if you purchased the pump from MG Cycle then I'd ASS-ume it was Ok as they are pretty good and know Guzzis backwards. If the bike runs well, then it's probabaly fine. I'm too anal when it comes to that sort of thing. As I'm sure you're aware if a pump drastically didn't match the OEM ratings it could stress other components in this case the pressure control/relief valve, or even overwhelm it, in which case fuel pressure would rise, with all sorts of problems

To add to @gstallons post, I did wonder if you'd matched the flow and pressure ratings of the OEM pump when replacing with an aftermarket. I don't know the Le Mans, but I did have to replace the Bosch pump on my Sporti engined bike. The Bosch pumps for that bike are now readly available but at the time they were as plentiful as Hen's teeth I eventually ended up replacing it with a Pierburg pump, which closely matched the Bosch rating at considerable expense

After reading through this thread, I wonder if the bits I've put onto the Sfida have only resulted in detracting from the beauty of the original design. In many ways its become a bitsa but the whole topic is subjective. When rebuilding it back up I couldn't help but notice many of the components were less than ideal and I installed after market parts. Also spent a lot of time trying to undo bodges and there were quite a few. There wasn't any grand plan, but I'm very happy with it as it is now. Thank you for all the "likes"

Sounds like what Guzzi owners refer to as Startus Innterus @docc beat me to the punch, regarding Roy's diagram Regarding the Bosch relay, according to the spec I found its rated at 20A I'm not sure about the relay layout on the V11 but the Power Relay operating fuel pump, injectors and coil has to feed a large load If it was me unless there is something wrong with the Chinese one I'd leave it, as it's a larger rating (if it's to be believed of course)

Still check in here frequently and if I can contribute I usually try. Had it out yesterday to get its annual roadworthy test and it still puts a smile on my ugly mug. A little worried that the MOT tester was calling me Mad Max though

Interesting that it has a MotoSpezial V Sump (Guzziladen was still selling these last I heard) Installing one onto a Broadsump isn't straightforward and unless provision is made for an oil cooler, of doubtful gain in cooling. Paul Minnaert is the only guy who installed one onto a Daytona that I knew of, but there are obviously more out there Paul installed a cooler using a sandwich plate behind the oil filter to feed a cooler. I thought about a similar setup but the deepsump wouldn't fit as mine has a bellypan. Suppose the external filter is a gain and the Vee reduces the chance of pump pickup starvation, but a Roper Plate does much the same thing. @HadaDaytona are you going for a US Daytona RS? I think the US Daytona RS and the Centi engines are the same. European bikes got "absolutely mad" C kit cams which make them enormous fun, but they run hot (100 C in free air) and overheat very quickly in traffic. More suited to a track than the road. EDIT For clarity the C kit cams were only installed to the Daytona RS exceptions being Dayona RS imported to Switzerland, Singapore and the US. The exceptions had the original Daytona cams. The Centauros sold everywhere had the original Daytona cams too.

Couldn't agree more with @GuzziMoto sentiments I use CRG Arrow mirrors on my bikes, I only use one mounted on the Offside. https://constructorsrg.com/mirrors/arrow.html Find them superior to stock mirrors, improved looks, don't vibrate and give me clear wide view behind (the mirror is convex glass). Glance down and I know what's behind me, they fold in towards the bar easily for tight lane splitting when required. Word of advice if you're thinking about them. Many cheap copies out there and the originals are relatively expensive. The cheapies are garbage, purchase the CRG originals or don't bother (don't ask me how I know).

Agree, the original seat design is far superior to either the Sport or the RS, but that's just my opinion Only thing I can add is the original was one piece with no seam, as I recall. The rear would require cutting at the base to accomodate a tail light, if you were mimicking the orignal design

Thank's @docc Good with me and if it helps the forum or other members then all the better. Do I need to do anything, let me know? I'll just keep the diagrams in my Dropbox, don't anticipate any problems with them residing there as it isn't something I use much anyway. Should you want to rehouse them that's also fine.

Surprised nobody has mentioned Carl Allison's schematics, I've found them pretty good, occassionally they have the odd error, but overall very easy to read. The factory wiring diagrams are pretty difficult to follow, at least for me Available on This Old Tractor, Gregg Bender's site https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html I'm taking a chance here but as @Kiwi_Roy seems to have gone Off Grid, I've dumped what schematics I have of his onto Drop Box in case anybody would like to grab them. I'm pretty sure he won't mind https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu&dl=0