Weegie

Just wondering if the oil level was really low and you cranked into a turn, you uncovered or partially uncovered the pump suction, leading to a momentary loss of oil pressure. If that was the case then in all probability it would recover pressure once upright or close to upright, explaining the event. If the oil was really low then the Roper Plate would probably do little to prevent this Of course I'd go through the preventitive actions already mentioned by others and me, just to entirely rule out other causes. Good Luck with the checks, be interesting to know what you find. John

Hi Dave Not sure of the sequence of events, the bike stuttered and died after sitting some time, after you had lunch, so it was cold, or slightly warm but not hot? When did the low pressure light illuminate after starting? Did it stay on after you applied some throttle/revs then go out and only flickered on for a second or two? Just my opinion, the flicker of the light could be nothing, the switch/connections needing attention or genuine low pressure and investigation into the mechanicals. Many others have gone into the probable causes. I'd first check oil level, then get a gauge onto it, remove the plugs (to lessen the strain on the bearings and increase crank speed) and crank it over. If it's cold the oil pressure should register quickly, within a few seconds and spin up to at least 40, I usually see 60 on the Sporti (more or less same bottom end) I'd be concerend about engine mechanical integrity first, sputtering and faulty pressure swtich/electrics would concern me less, although obviously needing to be looked into later. John

Been a few years but I've got his email as will.creedon@gmail.com Hope that helps

Of course I agree with Phil Not much to add on the Sport 1100 and the LM 1000 2 v/v bikes I run 15W/50 oil pressure is stable, even when the bikes get pretty toasty. The Sporti can easily reach 120C (around 250F) sump temp in traffic. When it starts to exceed that the bike quickly becomes unrideable, so oil pressure is academic. In clear air Sporti oil temp is around 80C (176F) although will rise quickly to 100C (212F) The C kit HiCam is a different kettle of fish altogether, run a 10/60 in it, in clear air around 100C (212F), in town I've seen 140C, again totally unrideable by then. Still got idle pressure but dammed little. Of course all the oils are group 4 full synth (so I've been told) Purely anectodal but the only bike I've needed a 10/60 on is the C kit HiCam and that's because of the C kit cams. Earlier HiCams (Daytona and Centauro) without the crazy cams aren't subject to the same heating issues. No C kit cams went into US bikes.

I have a Magni Sfida 1100, essentially a Sporti running the legacy version of MyECU. The installation and map was made by the previous owner of the bike and I haven't messed with it, I've never felt the need. About the only thing I've did is reset the TPS a few times. I'm not fussed on the finer points of how the engine runs, it accelerates pretty well and has more than enough power for my needs Probably a bit on the rich side, it has K&N pods, again it came to me this way. Mine can on ocassion, be a little reluctant to fire up cold, but not to the point I feel the need to mess with it. Just saying you're not alone with this setup

I really like the styling and yet to come across a negative review of the R12S. If looking for retro/hipster/cafe machine with nods to an earlier era but updated then surely it would be worth consdering (if you could afford the hefty price tag) Only criticisms were price and the throttle could be snatchy in Dynamic mode Owning an older sibling to the R12S, an R9T Racer, perhaps the boy's from Bavaria listened to all the comments about the Racer. The biggest flaw was the bars set into the triple clamp coupled to a long tank. I'm 5' 7" and it's a huge stretch, arms locked out most of the time. Many owners installed Helibars, I eventually opted for raised clip ons, but even with these the position is still pretty extreme.

Great to hear from you Roy Hope you stick around a bit more and all is well I took the liberty of hosting some of your electrical sketches on Dropbox for other members to copy as they need. I hope that's Ok with the diagrams are a fantastic resource, let me know. All the Best John

Just to add that Relay 5 has a very hard life powering all that equipment If I were a betting man it's where I'd put my money on which relay will fail first But as @GuzziMoto logical first step is to check for voltage at the pump

Apologies @Steve Swan if you purchased the pump from MG Cycle then I'd ASS-ume it was Ok as they are pretty good and know Guzzis backwards. If the bike runs well, then it's probabaly fine. I'm too anal when it comes to that sort of thing. As I'm sure you're aware if a pump drastically didn't match the OEM ratings it could stress other components in this case the pressure control/relief valve, or even overwhelm it, in which case fuel pressure would rise, with all sorts of problems

To add to @gstallons post, I did wonder if you'd matched the flow and pressure ratings of the OEM pump when replacing with an aftermarket. I don't know the Le Mans, but I did have to replace the Bosch pump on my Sporti engined bike. The Bosch pumps for that bike are now readly available but at the time they were as plentiful as Hen's teeth I eventually ended up replacing it with a Pierburg pump, which closely matched the Bosch rating at considerable expense

After reading through this thread, I wonder if the bits I've put onto the Sfida have only resulted in detracting from the beauty of the original design. In many ways its become a bitsa but the whole topic is subjective. When rebuilding it back up I couldn't help but notice many of the components were less than ideal and I installed after market parts. Also spent a lot of time trying to undo bodges and there were quite a few. There wasn't any grand plan, but I'm very happy with it as it is now. Thank you for all the "likes"

Sounds like what Guzzi owners refer to as Startus Innterus @docc beat me to the punch, regarding Roy's diagram Regarding the Bosch relay, according to the spec I found its rated at 20A I'm not sure about the relay layout on the V11 but the Power Relay operating fuel pump, injectors and coil has to feed a large load If it was me unless there is something wrong with the Chinese one I'd leave it, as it's a larger rating (if it's to be believed of course)

Still check in here frequently and if I can contribute I usually try. Had it out yesterday to get its annual roadworthy test and it still puts a smile on my ugly mug. A little worried that the MOT tester was calling me Mad Max though

Interesting that it has a MotoSpezial V Sump (Guzziladen was still selling these last I heard) Installing one onto a Broadsump isn't straightforward and unless provision is made for an oil cooler, of doubtful gain in cooling. Paul Minnaert is the only guy who installed one onto a Daytona that I knew of, but there are obviously more out there Paul installed a cooler using a sandwich plate behind the oil filter to feed a cooler. I thought about a similar setup but the deepsump wouldn't fit as mine has a bellypan. Suppose the external filter is a gain and the Vee reduces the chance of pump pickup starvation, but a Roper Plate does much the same thing. @HadaDaytona are you going for a US Daytona RS? I think the US Daytona RS and the Centi engines are the same. European bikes got "absolutely mad" C kit cams which make them enormous fun, but they run hot (100 C in free air) and overheat very quickly in traffic. More suited to a track than the road. EDIT For clarity the C kit cams were only installed to the Daytona RS exceptions being Dayona RS imported to Switzerland, Singapore and the US. The exceptions had the original Daytona cams. The Centauros sold everywhere had the original Daytona cams too.

Couldn't agree more with @GuzziMoto sentiments I use CRG Arrow mirrors on my bikes, I only use one mounted on the Offside. https://constructorsrg.com/mirrors/arrow.html Find them superior to stock mirrors, improved looks, don't vibrate and give me clear wide view behind (the mirror is convex glass). Glance down and I know what's behind me, they fold in towards the bar easily for tight lane splitting when required. Word of advice if you're thinking about them. Many cheap copies out there and the originals are relatively expensive. The cheapies are garbage, purchase the CRG originals or don't bother (don't ask me how I know).

Agree, the original seat design is far superior to either the Sport or the RS, but that's just my opinion Only thing I can add is the original was one piece with no seam, as I recall. The rear would require cutting at the base to accomodate a tail light, if you were mimicking the orignal design

Thank's @docc Good with me and if it helps the forum or other members then all the better. Do I need to do anything, let me know? I'll just keep the diagrams in my Dropbox, don't anticipate any problems with them residing there as it isn't something I use much anyway. Should you want to rehouse them that's also fine.

Surprised nobody has mentioned Carl Allison's schematics, I've found them pretty good, occassionally they have the odd error, but overall very easy to read. The factory wiring diagrams are pretty difficult to follow, at least for me Available on This Old Tractor, Gregg Bender's site https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html I'm taking a chance here but as @Kiwi_Roy seems to have gone Off Grid, I've dumped what schematics I have of his onto Drop Box in case anybody would like to grab them. I'm pretty sure he won't mind https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu&dl=0

Lots of different flavours available, not only manufacturer but type. I have a similar mod on one of mine, now redundant as a H4 LED bulb is installed. I just used some spare Panasonic mini relays I had to hand (similar in size and form factor as the OEM relays on the bike). As long as they are 12V and 20A or greater current capacity with a normally open contact they'll be more than up to the job. Diodes on the relay coils shouldn't be necessary for the application. What I would do is what @audiomick already suggested and purchase not only relays but also bases. Makes the job neater, the terminals more secure and if anything went wrong a damm site easier to change out.

I've got an 2017 R9T Racer, picked it up about 3 years back for £7k with less than 3k miles, thought it wasn't a bad deal So far I've had no problems and really like it, good linear midrange, but IMHO they aren't as engaging as the Guzzis, a little less soul. The stock suspension is pretty dire, replaced the rear shock with a Wilbers unit and an Ohlins cartridge kit in the forks, transformed the bike The other thing I miss is the exhaust note, I've got a Zard on mine, so it's louder than stock, but the exhaust note is flat and monotone. The riding position on the Racer is pretty extreme, radical clip ons and stretched over the tank. That doesn't appear to be the case though with the R12 I know nothing of the R12S but I do really like the looks, the grumblings on the Beemer forum I'm on is mainly the price. A few have purchased one, but yet to see an owner's report. My Racer, its beem modified a little since the pictures, nothing too radical though

To the best of my knowledge the low level fuel warning "transmitter" is an NTC thermistor. That's why the lamp glows before full brightness, avalanche effect of the current increase causing further heating and lowering circuit resistance further I've no clue on quantitative resistance values. Could the backfeed not find a path to ground on the Hi Beam Relay through the Hi Beam bulb? Coil resistance in the relay could easily drop the voltage sufficiently that the bulb won't light but still provide a path to ground. I know Guzzi used a similar scheme on the single indicator dash warning lamp on some models. The indicator warning light grounds through the indicator bulbs on the opposite side selected. Personally I wouldn't bother, the scheme is now working as intended. Chasing grounds could take forever and result in finding nothing Hell I still don't even know if I'm using the correct wiring diagram.

The bar switch provides positive voltage when the beam is selected I think the Lo Beam relay is wired correctly (although why he wired back to the battery on the coil side seems OTT) The Hi Beam has a Positive from the battery (85) and (86) is wired to the bar switch, this where things go awry and probably accounts for the wierd behaviour of the beams with ignition Off. The battery will be backfeeding positive voltage into the switch (it won't do any harm but probably result in wierd behavour). The Hi Beam Green wire to (85) should be connected to battery negative I apologise to @audiomick if that's what he stated in the previous posts, I just couldn't understand, which says more about me than him You could wait for another member to confirm, no harm on a second opinion

Doesn't sound like the battery then Usual check on the Alternator is to measure the output wire with a multimeter set to AC Volts Figures are in the manual I believe, if the same as the Sporti they are 15 V AC @ 1k RPM 40 V AC @ 3k RPM 80 V AC @ 6k RPM I'm not ruling it out but still leaning toward something amiss in the system wiring or the Reg/Rec One other thing that intrigued me, it looked like the Reg/Rec was for a 3 phase Alternator, that's fine its just 2 of the phases aren't used. Oh and the manual also has current figures for the system, looks like it's meant to max out at a little over 27A Where's @Kiwi_Roy when you need him?

I'm not quite sure I understand, you state poor charge then say a 30A breaker is tripping often? I'm unaware of this mod but guessing it's replacing fuse 3 on the output from the charge circuit to the battery. If it's tripping at 30A then sounds to me like the Alternator is doing its job, but system voltage isn't rising above 13.0 V. Could be a short, but I'd have thought you'd find that quickly either through blown fuses or smoke. Obvious start fully charge the battery with an exeternal charger then let it rest for a few hours and check the float voltage. Battery acts like an accumulator (or resevoir), if its voltage is low it can drag down system voltage and although a long shot it wouldn't be the first new battery that's been found defective Next thing after that would be to check battery voltage not being dragged down by parasitic load or small leakage. So the battery is low when you set out and will take time to rise in voltage. I'd also shoot a mail to Electrosport and ask them what the RR output voltage is set to as well, 13.0 volts sounds a tad low to me too, I'd think 13.5-14.0 volts is where it should be. It isn't catastrophic IMHO but is a bit low. EDIT Just to add I'm ASS-uming the rectifier ground/earth/chassis is good and of course battery ground, poor grounding usually results in higher system volts AFAIK, but it may be worth checking. Brighter minds will chip in soon (I hope)

Feel free to ignore, but looking at the pictures I haven't a clue what the PO intended Rather than swapping wires around on the relays would it not be better to get some clue about the scheme? I'd try to identify where the sources of the wires at the relay pins eminate from, identify them and sketch a diagram, to provide a starting point. Possibly a source from the battery at each relay, ground(s), an input from the switch and one to the beams for each relay. I'd also note any jumper wires on the relays and any wires which go from one relay to the other. If the source points can be located, mistakes can be rectified, modified or a new scheme made to work. I'm going to try and resist posting further as the last thing you need on this is another "cook to spoil the broth"