Speedfrog
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Posts posted by Speedfrog
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Thanks @Admin Jaap, I'll try Tapatalk, but you're right, I think it's time to retire the old iPad..
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EPUB is an e-book file format that uses the ".epub" file extension.
It would be helpful to know what application you use, most e-books apps will allow you to highlight and copy their text to the clipboard. I'm assuming you have already tried to just copy/paste your text in the reply box, and it doesn't come out formatted as the original?
When you paste a formatted text in the reply box, an option menu pops-up asking if you want to keep the formatted text as "rich text" or paste it as "plain text" instead. Have you tried that?
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31 minutes ago, audiomick said:
@ Al:
I noticed that too. It says "1st series" and "2nd series", which indicates that Guzzi changed it during the model run. Looks like they added a washer under the nut.
Not just the washer — the bolt and the associated nut have a different part #.
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Firefox for Apple mobile devices requires iOS13.0 or later... no luck there.
I don't know if there was an earlier version that would have been compatible with my legacy iPad, but regardless, I don't have it installed.
I tried Puffin and it's worse!
RE your photo library problems, I think a lot of these incompatibilities have to do with graphics processors evolution. I run Catalina with a patch on 2008 iMac, which is not natively compatible with that OS, and the Apple Photos app is behaving badly and isn't fully functional...
Despite Apple Inc. trying to wrangle them out of my hands, I'm hanging on to my old machines...
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My experience with AF1 is that their inventory showed on the product page is pretty accurate(unlike Harper's) and when an item is not in stock, the delivery time showed will pretty much tell you whether the item in the US (3 to 4 weeks) or in Italy (2 to 3 months). If an item is NLA it is simply not listed.
Of course it doesn't hurt to ask if you want to make sure of the availability of a part.
Note that AF1 doesn't take phone calls anymore, which I can't blame them for as it can waste a lot of resources answering questions all day, but they are very responsive through email and you will most likely get an answer within 24h directly from Ed Cook, the boss there.
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Yes docc, I have tried re-booting to no avail.
There must have been a software update by the site host!?
I noticed on the computer the name badges background color has changed to deep blue...
When an Apple device gets too old, it can no longer run the newest OS iterations as their architecture evolve and they require more computing power.
As much as I like their products and being a longtime user, Apple has always been highly criticized for not supporting their legacy hardware longer than they could have.
I find that to be a deeply inconceivable concept, when old school fix-it folks like us are trying their best to keep their 20+ years old machines on the road...
So as much as I like to squeeze every possible ounce out of anything I spent my hard earned money on, I'm afraid that in the case of my 10 years old iPad, which btw is otherwise in perfect shape and still fully functioning, the writing is on the wall...
Fingers crossed that it can be fixed by the host techs though!
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Screw, 10mm x 59mm - GU01357731 — AF1 Racing, Austin Texas — $2.91
https://www.af1racing.com/GU01357731-Screw--10Mmx59Mm---GU01357731
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@docc @Admin Jaap Any insight on the matter?
Thanks!
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6 hours ago, Joe said:
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I really miss @Lucky Phil right now... he would have had a field day
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13 minutes ago, audiomick said:
To give the engineers credit, one never knows, and will probably never find out, what was planned and how different that was from what the "budget engineer" thought would probably suffice. Not always the same thing...
Yes, you're right, there is always potential for the bean counters to undercut the engineering dept to a certain point. But I doubt they would have gambled with safety aspects or crucial (expensive) equipment such as an ECU.
One can always be optimistic, but like you said, we'll probably never know.
And one can also be reminded of what happened with the valve train of the early CARC 8V engine...
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2 hours ago, docc said:
I'm not sure I understand the value of investigating the original relay as it was proved failure prone from mid-2000 year.
Not so much for the value of the original relays but only to get some insight into the original design of the electrical system.
We all know by now the electrical engineeers in Mandello Del Lario had their share of miscalculations, but I'm hopeful they would have made sure sensitive equipment like the ECU was protected from potentially destructive voltage surges coming from said relays.
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@audiomick Here is a good read if you are interested to go beyond basics.
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First thing I noticed when accessing the forum this morning on my iPad was I could no longer choose a reaction to a post, it's "like" or nothing, and when I click on the "heart" it refreshes the page before registering the "like".
_ When choosing an option in the menu bar, the sub-menu comes up all scrambled and it's impossible to select anything.
_ Clicking on a link within a post doesn't open a new tab as it use to but opens the link on the same tab.
_ On the home page, in the "recent" column, the badges with the reply count are on top of the topics titles and I can no longer switch from "Replies" to "Topics".
I experience the same behavior with 2 different browsers, ie. Safari and Chrome.
** Now, I should mention that my iPad is ancient and its iOS(12.5.7) is no longer supported.
Anybody else ran into this??
Edit: One more symptom — I can no longer reply to a post, the reply box has been replaced by a single line...
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5 hours ago, docc said:
My original relays are in the their prescribed location: shelved in the pile cabinet, properly labeled , one example of seven generations of relays I have run on mySport (I skipped the TYCO, not haven fallen for that).
I would be interested to know if the original relays were all the same in all positions and if there is any marking on them indicating the presence of a surge suppressor.
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1 hour ago, audiomick said:
I just found a document quite similar to that, but in English.
Good primer on relays, but no mention of suppressor, diode or resistor, or flyback voltage spikes.
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15 hours ago, docc said:
vulnerability from Relay#5's coil powered by the same feed as the ECU "downstream" from Relay #4.
I'm not sure I understand that description.
On 3/14/2023 at 6:02 PM, docc said:I admit I do not understand from where the voltage spike would be coming from and across what terminals of the relay the diode would block it.
First let's establish that the Voltage Spike happens at the coil side of the relay (low current control circuit), it does not affect the switch side (high current load circuit).
When the relay is turned off and the coil is de-energized, the magnetic field collapses, resulting in a voltage surge in the opposite direction. These low current surges can have significantly high voltages, often up to 100 volts, with the potential to destroy a transistor driving a relay.
Think of it as a taser, high voltage/low current, it won't kill you but it'll disable you for a while... do it repeatedly or for too long and it'll kill you, same as lightning.
A diode(often called a flyback diode) installed in parallel with the coil (pin 85/86) in reverse polarity creates a low resistance loop for that momentary voltage spike to be absorbed/dissipated and protect the controlling electronic circuit while allowing the current to flow directly through the coil when the relay is switched on.
So you might think, great, let's use diode protected relays whenever we have a transistor on the control side... well, like everything electronic, it ain't that simple.
Although very effective, one drawback to using a flyback diode as a voltage surge suppressor in a relay is that it decays the magnetic field of the coil slower than with no diode, taking longer for the relay to open the contacts and allowing arcing and micro-welds to occur between the contacts which could cause the relay to stick overtime when the contacts become welded together.
I believe the built-in diodes found in micro relays are just simple flyback diodes. There are other types of diodes or diode combinations that can be used to alleviate this issue but it's getting a bit more technical that I'm willing to delve into here.
Resistors installed across the coil provide similar protection against voltage spikes and are more durable if not as effective.
A downside to using a resistor is that it will allow current to flow through it whenever the relay is on and dissipate energy and convert it into heat.
The advantage it holds over a diode is that it won't slow down the opening of the contacts and it is not sensitive to polarity.
It would be interesting to know what type of relays were spec'd by the Guzzi engineers and whether the ECU has built-in voltage surge protection.
The only thing I see on the schematic is a "safety diode" #48 between the ECU relay pin #85 and the ECU, presumably to give it some protection. None of the relays show any suppressor across their coil.
Of course, with our bikes being 20+ years old, I doubt there are many original relays left under the seat.
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2000 V11 Sport for sale on WG. $4,000 - Southwest PA
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=117324.msg1845191#msg1845191
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27 minutes ago, activpop said:
I'm sure this has been asked, but I'm a new guy. You can have different but comparable relays on the same block, right?
As long as they are micro relays... the only requisite is that relay #1 (#23 on the schematic) has to be SPDT where all the others are SPST.
The physical difference is SPDT has 5 pins and SPST has 4 pins.
A SPDT (5 pins) can be fitted in all positions, but a SPST will not function in position #1.
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3 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:
That leaves us with the question, would a diode protected relay be beneficiary in position #5 in insuring no voltage spike do any damage to the ECU??
I think it is cheap insurance and that’s what I’ll do.
Those Picker relays come in both flavors
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That leaves us with the question, would a diode protected relay be beneficiary in position #5 in insuring no voltage spike do any damage to the ECU??
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@doccYou are right when you say:
On 3/14/2023 at 2:47 PM, docc said:The ECU then triggers/controls the coils and injectors directly without going through any of the relay system.
But with all due respect, I think you got the energizing of the relays arse about.
Let us look at the schematic and those 2 relays in question, we agree that the top one #49, is the ECU relay(#4) and the bottom one #46 is the EFI relay(#5).
For reference, Relay pin/terminal identification:
85 Relay Coil Negative - 86 Relay Coil Positive - 87 Common Contact - 30 Feed/ Line In Positive
_ The ECU relay #4 gets triggered(pin 86) from the ignition switch via the kill switch.
_ The EFI relay #5 gets triggered(pin 86) from the ECU pin #19
Fuse #2 is only protecting the EFI circuit from +12V feed coming from the battery.
I don't pretend to be 100% correct but that's what I see.
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Looking at the electrical schematic, relay #4 supplies power to the ECU and in turn the ECU triggers(control?) relay #5 to power ignition, injectors & fuel pump.
Note that relay #4 is already protected by an external diode.
Dang, we need @Kiwi_Roy in-fused science to bring us the light!
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@audiomick That’s correct, when the voltage is removed and a relay is the de-energized, the magnetic field sudden collapse can result in a voltage surge in the opposite direction. A diode will offer a better protection to sensitive electronic circuitry upstream of the relay.
In that light, I wonder if relay #5 controlled by the ECU wouldn’t benefit from having a diode protected relay to safeguard it from voltage spikes??
Best Relay
in How to...
Posted
The Picker 1C for our application has a coil power of 1.5W with a resistance of 96 ohms @ 12V.
You got that right! That's an awful lot of ink for a $2.50 part... It all depends how much you value your time, ROI and all that.
I'd say, get a baker's dozen, carry a couple of spares under the seat and fuhgeddaboudit
And ride the damn bike....