MotoKnee

I rigged mine in a vise this morning to try to determine root cause for shifting issues, primarily downshifting fails. It didn't take long to see that the front hook was hanging at the pin and not dropping. It took a little fiddling with very small adjustments on the main eccentric to get the same clearance at both the front and rear hooks. Immediate improvement, at least on the bench. Adjusted the secondary to about .1mm and called it good. Both are a little fiddly trying to keep the setting while holding the shift lever, a screw driver and tightening the lock nut. I debated whether to replace the 2 springs I had purchased last winter along with doing the other straightening and smoothing steps Phil did. I didn't want to muddy the water with multiple changes so I put the bike back together with only the eccentric adjustments done. Just returned from a test ride and could not be more pleased with the result. Every shift up or down was solid, easy and reliable. Transformed the enjoyability of riding the green beast. My bike had been weeping oil at the second adjuster, I suspect someone tried to tighten the nut with the shifter cover on the bike and just turned the whole unit fouling the setting. As always, enormous gratitude to Phil and the forum for guidance on resolving problems.

Despite assuring there are no issues with the external shifter parts, I still get occasional false neutrals or other funky shifting problems. So, with a heavy heart I pulled the shifter cover to see what's what. Before disassembly, it appears the detent roller could benefit from a tweak and that the eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick. Downshifts and upshifts bring different points on the shift selector close to the adjuster, will set the tighter one to spec. Will upgrade to the super spring and smooth out the recommended surfaces in search of Japanese shifter delight. I'm sure there will be questions as things come apart.

I guess it's no mystery how this old nugget got stuck in my head.

A Goose and a Spruce Goose, nice!

Lots of maintenance over the winter (wheels off list, tank off list, swingarm bearing re-grease, new breather hose, fork oil, brake fluid, electrics cleanup etc.) The only drama was losing the BB that actuates the front brake switch and both U-joints loose, all sorted and ready for test ride when the old Odyssey battery gave up the ghost. Fortunately the nearby NAPA had a new PC545 on the shelf for $147. Ready to ride just in time for the recent nice weather, 200 mi loop to the coast without a hicccup. Thanks to all the info from the fine folks on this forum!

Congrats on the fix. Audiomick and Weegie are the Hercule Poirots of this Agatha C mystery i can't imagine trying to keep these beasts running without this forum.

I think your observations are spot on. I had to add into to my relay diagram, but reached the same conclusion as you.

Just put mine back together, definitely needed some attention. With one of the reaction rod bolts removed, the rear portion pulls off without removing the front from trans. You may need to replace the shaft oring, I just happened to have one laying around. Also had to replace the u-joint yoke pinch bolts as both ends were lose enough to slide on the splines.

15 years ago a few guys with some sense seemed to like the idea of a cushier cush drive. I wondered if the idea held up over time. (Phil votes NAY)

I'm a big fan of using stuff that is already paid for. Did you do the swiss cheese or just a clean and lube?

Hmm I was going to use a generic silicone grease in my toolbox. Mebbe I'll try to locate some of the magic stuff before putting my freshly drilled parts back in. Wheel will be off until I get the swingarm greased, transmission cover work done, and a few other rando projects. Thx

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing? Is it still a thing? Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not. Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

Only had my wheel off once, but seem to recall this spacer?

I drew up the first diagram to help me understand my own bike, the second to follow what's being discussed in these threads. Both are based on Carl A schematics. I find them helpful, others may not.

Sorry for the confusion Docc. Here's the deal. I noticed the ebay ad a few days before the John Day rally. The ad read 2 V11s for sale, and a price of $13,000. No mention of $13k each. Hence the inference that $13k was for the pair, not just by me but also a friend that I sent the link to see if he wanted one. I guess we are both idiots. I checked the ad immediately after the rally and the price had been dropped to $9000. I still assumed it was for the pair as there was still no mention of $9k each. This price was only up for a day or two, then the ad went away. I no longer cared because it was at this time I had found a Greenie locally. It wasn't until Activpop mentioned he had spoken with the seller and the price was $13k each, that the $9k must have also been for each. I only posted in the first place because in the original ad, he gave more history and details, including the extra wheel, and thought maybe someone else had seen it.

Activpop stated he wanted $13k each, and I agreed that must be correct. The seller then lowered the price to $9000 each. ??

If you spoke in person, I'm sure you must be right. $13k seems optimistic, the $9000 he dropped to immediately after the rally is fairly significant.

That looks like one of the two V11s that the seller had for sale on eBay earlier this summer. The other was an equally nice Rosso Mandello I think. He was asking $13,000 for the pair and had trailered them to the MGNOC rally in John Day, Oregon. They apparently didn't sell there and afterward he listed them for $9000 for the pair, then the listing was taken down soon after.

Best of the best, absolutely stunning.

Summer's last Walz

As much for my own clarification as yours My understanding of circuits discussed: Assuming you find no power going to fuses 6 and 7, and even though the Hi/Low beams work, the IGN switch could still be suspect because the wire pair (1 and 2) work thru a different contact than wire pair 3 and 4. A broken wire (or dirty contact) on 3 or 4 would cut power to both the tail light and the turn signals. I don't think relays are involved as they are not used in the tail light or turn signal circuit. The schematic I'm looking at may not apply to your bike, and I'm often wrong.