MotoKnee

Agreed. The drone shots are a great touch and labeling the bikes for the less informed makes it all the more interesting. I hope to make it next year, which is what I said last year.

Thanks for posting the video, very well done.

Can't see the forest for the trees!

I saw that one on Cycle Trader, it's about twice as far away, a little older, and has a few more miles, but doable. Giving it a second look and it's growing on me. UhOh. I just thinned the herd from 4 bikes to 3 to open up some garage space, but wtf, 3 Guzzis and a '23 Z900RS sounds ok, and I can always put the Greenie in the living room. If it's still for sale next month on my 70th birthday, I'll tell the wife that's what I want.

Congrats on the score, I guess I can delete that bookmark now I've been smooth talking my wife to drive me up there so I could ride that bike home if it was roadworthy for the 100 mile trip, seemed like a great price. Enjoy and post more pics.

This one? https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/mcy/d/snohomish-2004-moto-guzzi-v11-cafe-sport/7868719941.html

The Greenie Conundrum: too beautiful to ride, too fun not too.

Astoria bridge, 4 mi span across the mouth of the Columbia river on the OR/WA border.

Hottest day of the year here today. So, lyrics for a hot day, guitar hot licks, and most importantly, hot wimmins dancing

Correction to my post above re: secondary adjuster gap. I meant to type .7mm (not .1mm) as Phil mentions in page 1 and 2 of this thread. Got out for another ride today in between rain showers and must say I'm thrilled with how smooth and precise shifts are now , should have busted a move on this fix when I first saw this thread.

I rigged mine in a vise this morning to try to determine root cause for shifting issues, primarily downshifting fails. It didn't take long to see that the front hook was hanging at the pin and not dropping. It took a little fiddling with very small adjustments on the main eccentric to get the same clearance at both the front and rear hooks. Immediate improvement, at least on the bench. Adjusted the secondary to about .1mm and called it good. Both are a little fiddly trying to keep the setting while holding the shift lever, a screw driver and tightening the lock nut. I debated whether to replace the 2 springs I had purchased last winter along with doing the other straightening and smoothing steps Phil did. I didn't want to muddy the water with multiple changes so I put the bike back together with only the eccentric adjustments done. Just returned from a test ride and could not be more pleased with the result. Every shift up or down was solid, easy and reliable. Transformed the enjoyability of riding the green beast. My bike had been weeping oil at the second adjuster, I suspect someone tried to tighten the nut with the shifter cover on the bike and just turned the whole unit fouling the setting. As always, enormous gratitude to Phil and the forum for guidance on resolving problems.

Despite assuring there are no issues with the external shifter parts, I still get occasional false neutrals or other funky shifting problems. So, with a heavy heart I pulled the shifter cover to see what's what. Before disassembly, it appears the detent roller could benefit from a tweak and that the eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick. Downshifts and upshifts bring different points on the shift selector close to the adjuster, will set the tighter one to spec. Will upgrade to the super spring and smooth out the recommended surfaces in search of Japanese shifter delight. I'm sure there will be questions as things come apart.

I guess it's no mystery how this old nugget got stuck in my head.

A Goose and a Spruce Goose, nice!

Lots of maintenance over the winter (wheels off list, tank off list, swingarm bearing re-grease, new breather hose, fork oil, brake fluid, electrics cleanup etc.) The only drama was losing the BB that actuates the front brake switch and both U-joints loose, all sorted and ready for test ride when the old Odyssey battery gave up the ghost. Fortunately the nearby NAPA had a new PC545 on the shelf for $147. Ready to ride just in time for the recent nice weather, 200 mi loop to the coast without a hicccup. Thanks to all the info from the fine folks on this forum!

Congrats on the fix. Audiomick and Weegie are the Hercule Poirots of this Agatha C mystery i can't imagine trying to keep these beasts running without this forum.

I think your observations are spot on. I had to add into to my relay diagram, but reached the same conclusion as you.

Just put mine back together, definitely needed some attention. With one of the reaction rod bolts removed, the rear portion pulls off without removing the front from trans. You may need to replace the shaft oring, I just happened to have one laying around. Also had to replace the u-joint yoke pinch bolts as both ends were lose enough to slide on the splines.

15 years ago a few guys with some sense seemed to like the idea of a cushier cush drive. I wondered if the idea held up over time. (Phil votes NAY)

I'm a big fan of using stuff that is already paid for. Did you do the swiss cheese or just a clean and lube?

Hmm I was going to use a generic silicone grease in my toolbox. Mebbe I'll try to locate some of the magic stuff before putting my freshly drilled parts back in. Wheel will be off until I get the swingarm greased, transmission cover work done, and a few other rando projects. Thx

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing? Is it still a thing? Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not. Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

Only had my wheel off once, but seem to recall this spacer?