docc

Maybe with the starter removed for a full view of the entire Rube Goldberg mechanism . . .

Man, this is so commonly the issue on the downshift (that the shift lever strikes the Frame Side Plate). I believe the lever travel differs between various gear changes. Worth looking at again, specifically between the gear changes that are giving you trouble. The clutch release action feels full and complete?

Best wishes for everyone to realize "The Moto Guzzi Experience " . . .

Waiting on the V100 Moto Whoop'dee model to sign up for "The Experience."

Any details to share? A link?

There are (almost) always things that go down at SpineRaids behind the scenes. Spineys gets sat on . . . Friendly strangers share >blue things< like Free Candy . . .

Soon, the next EICMA to bring us closer to this V100 becoming commonly available. Looks like there might be six built, now!

My Mistral canisters are 2x2 (diagonal lines). I would like to match the bum-humper to them. Not that they are visible to anyone but me, as my nasty (but useful) Tekno panniers obscure them. Will all the Humpers be the same, or will the fabricator lay them up individually? > humper-hopers want to know < (BTW, I love this plan. )

The stator upgrade is still the OEM replacement from that supplier, but with improved strain relief and heat shielding.

I've been using this combination all along. Although, I must emphasize that I monitor the static voltage as my bike sits and properly charge/ "condition" the PC545 when the discharge reaches 80% (12.65v) as per Odyssey's instructions. IIRC, I was fitting a new regulator at about 30,000 miles until I grounded the case and started being diligent with the battery conditioning. FWIW, I also isolate the regulator while using a charger. This procedure has been often stated as unnecessary, but my 30 amp circuit breaker makes it easy for me to do and I figure it can't hurt.

I use this OEM replacement with the bullet connectors changed to spades for that supplier's improved stator. (Case grounded to the timing chest). https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-voltrect.htm

"Stop Draggin' My Heart Around !"

TALLY POST So, @Chuck, I'll continue to update the post with inquiries about the Next Latest Batch : @KenBlake @RichP (Oct 5, 2022) @roktbox @Tinus89 (Oct 13, 2022) @guzzi323 @Scud ( # ? ) (Oct 14, 2022) @Gmc28 (Oct 22, 2022) That is 12 ( if Scud wants to bank 6) . No one has ever been sorry they added this to their V11. And to think the first post on this thread was six years ago. Who said people on the interwebs have a short attention span?

Yeah, those are the green OEM composite that many call "paper." I didn't learn until recently that the metal-core gaskets for the 2-valve 1200 fit our square fin. No doubt, the metal-core gaskets are the best and most durable available. Of course they are double the money. Almost $12US instead of $6.50.

Shoot, I should get extra moderator points for not posting, "First, perform a meticulous Decent Tune-up." Until now . . .

See there? Even my best attempt at paraphrasing will never compare to Genuine PeteParlance. [I thought the "antelope fart" was pretty clever, though. It's like an accelerator pump for powdered unicorn horn . . .]

Haha, well, same. I am reminded of the V11 Sport debut at the November 1997 EICMA. I bought the second one available in Tennessee, USA, in August 2000. Right at three years after the tease, er "debut." So, no reason to get all worked up and expect your pie&chips before your third pint . . .

The valve cover gasket surely looks like your leak. Perfect time for a "Decent Tune-up" . . .

This would be like hurriedly expecting your veal piccata to be served before your third glass of Pino Grigio.

I gotta get-me some o' them to replace my very thin ,original, green composites. @Freedom, be diligent not to overtighten the valve covers and tighten in steps using a "star pattern."

What that actually means in PeteParlance: "Those arsed-crappers are for knuckle-dragging shaved-apes that couldn't get an antelope fart into their intake without squeezing it through their nose. " [I may have paraphrased a bit, there . . . ]

Isn't this the correct metal gasket from MGCycle? And we have confirmed they can be reused? https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=4634

@Freedom, open image-> right click image for menu-> select "Copy Image Link" -> paste into reply:

The pads/pistons would not retract and the lever was locked less than an inch from the grip (just enough room for my fingers). I removed the pad pins and retracted the pistons with small Channel-Locks, mopping up the fluid from the bleeders with a rag (did not have a small hose for the bleeder). I was concerned that on the ride down the rest of the mountain I would instinctively pull the brake lever and lock the pads against the rotor again, so the pen is secured there to chock the brake lever in place. We were all presuming something hydraulic, but back in the garage, the lever released when the retaining nut on the pivot pin was loosened. It had been installed 6,000 miles ago. The tiny ball that actuates the switch would not release until home and I completely disassembled and cleaned the mechanism. Current thinking is that the nasty white lithium grease I used combined with the moisture, temperature drop, and fine grit from the road construction to bind the pivot and switch actuator.

I have to say, I am most appreciative to the fellows that stayed with me on the descent from The Divide as my front brakes failed. Not a happy time for me. We stopped at the first overlook that was clear below the 1500 foot cloud ceiling. Took some pics and admired the view. Then, forty minutes working to release my locked front brakes to roll the last 1500 feet elevation/20 miles. You know you are medium-to-truly føøk'd when you blink-blink-awake and see docc's Sharpie and surgical tape applied to your personal vicinity . . .