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Yeah, G8V . . . Amazon messes with us.

That's flattering, but a lot of smart, experienced, and dedicated members contributed to the Best Relay derivation. @Kiwi_Roy, @Ryland3210, Bruce Lawson (R.I.P.), and more than few of us in the Beta Testing Department. “I have learned throughout my life as a composer chiefly through my mistakes and pursuits of false assumptions, not by my exposure to founts of wisdom and knowledge.” - Igor Stravinsky

The Panasonic are good relays. Yet, the continuous current rating for the NO contact for Relay#5 is under rated for the load.

@bridge, where did you source the relays? (Perhaps their picker just goofed?) When I look at onlinecomponents, the image looks like what you have, but says "Image is representational -see mfr. specs." Opening the Data Sheet shows the correct terminal configuration: https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html

Yeah, that is not the correct relay. Trying to find the part of the number that specifies the terminal pattern . . . Correct ones look like these:

Blockage not likely. Loose filter or double seal more likely. Wouldn’t hurt to bring your idle up. The spec is 1050+/-50 IIRC. I like mine on the high side + , partly to move more oil at idle. Do you have guzzidiag? This way you can check the accuracy of the tach. If yours is reading high (not uncommon), you could be trying to idle at a true 600-650. (Still worth inspecting that filter IMO ....)

Ah, yeah, sorry for my oil weight comment. I recall now that Moto Guzzi changed the spec on the later V11. Your Motul is likely just fine. Personally, I'm a RedLine fan; true Group 5, full ester base oil. Awesome stuff. Oil? we can go on-and-on, of course. footgoose makes a good point about idle speed. The tachs can read high (early Veglia as high as 300-500 rpm) which could lead us to try and idle at 700 rpm - not good. That, alone, might save you pulling the sump! If you still have the filter you took off, you can inspect it for the seal.

That's odd. That is the standardized micro relay configuration used on the V11. What about them does not fit? Can you post an image?

There have been instances of the old filter gasket staying on the motor when the filter came out. Absolutely worth checking! 5W-40 seems a might thin for a motor that commonly runs on 20W-50, but I can't imagine that could be the source of low pressure at idle . . .

5th character: KRAKR changed to KRAKS probably sometime in 2002. AFAIK, no one has discerned exactly what the change indicates. If anything. Page one of this thread appears to demonstrate that most of the 2002 Scura (Long Frame) were KR, but there was one KS reported. Our member @tommaso is asking about which might be correct for the Scura he is looking at in Italy.

This KR versus KS question has come up again. It seems we really never did figure it out before. Anyone?

I'm still trying to find an answer regarding KR versus KS. The 10th character in the VIN is the year (2 = 2002). EDIT: I found this discussion about the KR versus KS. Seems most Scura are KR, but apparently not all:

There's more than one way to get across borders . . .

I recall hearing the idea that the Reggae beat was a product of the wavering, modulated FM radio signal broadcasting New Orleans jazz across the Gulf of Mexico to Jamaica. In that case, I figure J.J. Cale didn't have any better reception up in Tulsa . . .

My understanding is this additional Starter Relay is applicable to the later wiring harnesses (2002 on) that burden the Ignition Switch instead of the early V11 that rely on the (weaker) Relay#1 NC contact. (And why early V11 require a High Current OMRON in the 5-pin Position#1.)

I see Scud's post in his Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts in "How to . . ."

Thanks for clarifying this, @Steve S. So, it it just that the lower sliders increased in diameter on the LongFrames? (IIRC, they went from 41mm to 43mm?)

This is such an interesting V11! Absolutely worth going to look at, @tommaso! Thank you for letting us know what you find! It appears the wheels may have been stripped and polished bright. Maybe clear coated? I like them, but I am a "silver" guy . . . Fascinating about the cylinder/piston/camshaft change. No mention if the heads were also changed (?) My best math: increasing the bore from the V11/ 92mm to the 2valve 1200 Sport/ 95mm takes the displacement from 1064cc to 1134cc. So, a V11&1/2?

Yeah, well. "The best laid plans of mice and men" . . . The Sport has rolled only backward and forward enough to get my >other< bike on the lift. Then she went all Italian on me, to get my attention, and started spilling fluids onto the floor. All the while knowing I can't get her back on the lift until the sweet, quiet little Japanese lady is seen to. My chances of actually making my 200.000 km goal by the South'n SpineRaid (and Mandello's Moto Guzzi Centenary Celebration) is diminishing. Anyone wiling to post their odometer at this point in their V11's progress?

It is a very nice likeness of a Scura R! Yet, the engine paint looks a but dull and , the real giveaways: chin pad tank and white face instruments with speedo cable angle drive at the gearbox . . .

Clicking on that image opens it, then double clicking opens it in imgzeit where it can be zoomed for exquisite detail. Welldone, Stew! NOTE: This is the Second Generation wiring harness introduced in 2002. Early V11 (1999-2001) have variations especially on how the start function uses Relay#1 instead of the Ignition Switch,

Let's see how this works, folks:

I'll host it on imgzeit. Stand by for a pm, stewgnu . . .

I would hope anyone going so far as to change pistons, cylinders, and camshaft would have addressed both the known engine paint and flywheel issues of this model. So many significant changes make me wonder about how the tuning has been done....

Try saving it in each of those extensions, then see if they will post in a reply to this thread. I am no computer-person, but know who to ask . . . Thanks for sharing your hard work, Stew!