docc

Looks to be the Timing Sensor. So, important, indeed!

I can't find a three wire connector in the wiring diagrams, so not sure what that one does. But none of them are "extra." After one of my tank-off events, I failed to re-seat a connector well enough and had to take it all down again to draw up this connector with a bar clamp and anchor it with a stout Zip-tie. Problem solved. Good to clean and treat (DeOxit) our connectors, but be certain to re-seat them well!

Which connector are we looking for here? Right or left side of the spine frame? This'n on the right side?

Pray tell? Which connector are we looking for?

Shocking! Not lire?

Not necessarily a bad thing that it has a Speedhut GPS speedometer, but not good for collector value. Mecum is a pretty classy venue for a V11. Perhaps it will outsell the BaT Coppa Italia!

I thought this might be the same V11 that just sold for $9,946US on bringatrailer, but no! Is there a way to see what it sells for?

I'm fascinated by the man who has four variations of the V11. Two ShortFrames, two LongFrames/ Three Sports and a LeMans . . . Care to elaborate, @Guzzimax?

Outstanding! Another source for the British-made Champion resistor caps for the early Sports. I like the look of these better than the later (NGK?) on V11. Everyone should have spares in the Monkey Paw Trap under the seat (as well as a couple replacement spark plugs). For your buddy's Guzzi that got tipped over and predictably breaks these parts. "The Green Spark Plug Company LTD" also looks to have the proper red plug wires . . .

This was the final drive oil in a Moto Guzzi bottle that had the moly premixed. When I couldn't get it from Guzzi anymore, I found the Motul product and the specification looked identical. It was my presumption that Motul had provided the product to Moto Guzzi.

IIRC, that Motul (with moly) is the original formulation for the Moto Guzzi V11 "Final Drive Oil." Seems it went "no longer available" long ago? Hence, the common substitution of RedLine ShockProof with its "synthetic moly" . . . .

TPS is conspicuously absent from @Gerry_L's extensive listing . . .

Hey, the GEI may have been better than the Bosch. Which were better relays than the Tyco, that were better than both versions of the Seimans. Then we learn that the G8HE OMRON is heads-and-shoulders better than the G8HN. "Best Relay" is a concept that was derived, partly, through this long thread. Again, thanks to so many dedicated contributors. Yet, we cannot neglect the other significant "hiccup"/misfire/stumble sources. (esp: TPS, CO Fuel Trim, 30 amp fuse failure) . . . Gotta cover all the bases!

And there is no way to clean or maintain them?

Just reviewed this ten+ year-long thread. Restored some links and images and refreshed my memory of all the contributors. "Thank you, gentlemen! " is yet appropriate. Like so many conditions involving complex systems, a V11 "Nasty Hiccup" is likely "multi-causal." In this case: Weak/under-rated relays + bad TPS + negative CO Fuel Trim setting + faulty coil wire connection + failed 30 amp charge fuse = *Nasty Hiccup*! (At one point in those ten+years, even loose intake clamps made a contribution to the elusive badness . . .)

This outlook reminds me of chasing MySport's "Nasty Hiccup" for over ten years. I learned a lot, addressed many issues, and even found a few contributors. Two that come to mind, without reviewing that entire thread, were a mildly faulty TPS and a badly corroded/broken contact inside one of the coil boots (both easy to check). I have never been able to detect a glitch in the TPS output watching changes in mV, but instead set to a sensitive resistance setting (Ω) and very slowly open and close the throttle plate watching for jumps and opens. The coil wire fault was a very satisfying find!

"I'm gonna break my rusty cage. And run."

" - Dismantle main switch and check contactors and soldering." @Gerry_L , if this means the key-activated "Ignition Switch", by all means: yes! 20A OMRON (G8HN ?) are not full-on High Current OMRON (G8HE) . . . vital for Position#5 (Fuel/Ignition)! And Position #1 on an early Sport! > High Current < relay positions! There are also the weak, hidden spade connectors under the fuse block to fuses #1/#2 (Fuel/Ignition and ECU): Otherwise, it's Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and another Decent Tune-up to catch up all the stray issues . . .

Someone left the gate open and the Sport gassed up. docc bolted!

MySport's been parked for over a month leaking fork oil into a catch pan while my "other bike" is on the lift. Pretty sure the fussy Italian girl just had to pitch her hissy-fit. I have the seals in the pile, just need the lift. But the little Honda is waiting on a NOS cam. From Israel. Gonna be a minute . . . So, I decide there is nothing to be lost by using the SealMate® that @Mikkosent me a couple years ago. Without any real hopes, the left fork went 118 miles today and stayed dry! Shocked! So, I cleaned the right and feel like we're back on the road. Thanks @Mikko ! !

First, regarding the bar-mounted switchgear: very easy to access, clean with contact cleaner (I use CRC Electronics Cleaner) then Caig DeOxit. The Caig product actually has a cleaner in it , so the CRC is really not necessary. Very simple, yet oft neglected maintenance item. Sheesh . . . I wonder when I did mine last . . . The clutch lock-out is not relay based. There is a microswitch at the lever that connects through two "bullet" connectors on the forward left side of the frame under the tank. Another V11 No-Start Drill: Pull in the clutch lever, hold down the starter button and rotate the bars side to to side, fully. If the starter activates, the fault is with the nefarious bullet connectors. Sometimes, you may be able to access them, clean/crimp/Caig DeOxit and heat shrink them with out removing the tank (but it's tight, especially with the LeMans fairing). Groomed and sealed clutch switch bullet connectors, center of view between the two large connectors: @Gmc28, A V11 that starts without pulling in the clutch may have one or more causes: 1) A previous owner has defeated the "safety" feature. Perhaps by unplugging said bullet connectors and installing a jump wire, or even cutting the wires and twisting them together, or connecting the two wires with a crimp-on "ScotchLock." 2) The microswitch has gone faulty and stuck closed. 3) The actuator in the channel at the lever that should allow that pressure on the switch to release (and close the switch) has gone missing leaving the switch unpressed as if the lever is always pulled away from the switch. If you put your ear close to the switch, you should be able to just detect a tiny *click*-*click* as the lever is barely pulled and released . . . .

Personally, I find this reassuring. I would be most disappointed if Moto Guzzi were assigned to "Life Style."

https://www.motoguzzi.com/us_EN/1921-2021/