docc

Interesting question! Not sure about the rest of the world, but US spec V11 were sold with an "evaporative fuel recovery system." Vacuum lines were connected from the intake vacuum taps to two charcoal canisters parked in the tool tray under the seat. (The tool roll was shoved into the Monkey Paw Trap in the tail section. ) The canisters were, then, vented through two 1/2" double-wall USA-made fuel lines to below the back of the gearbox. The entire apparatus involves the two charcoal canisters and twenty feet (Yes, 20 feet!) of half-inch US fuel line. The total mess weighs an impressive five pounds (a whopping one percent of the V11!) So, very common to see this mess removed and either the vacuum taps capped or just connected together. Does five pounds matter? Heh, well try to lose 5 pounds/11 kg and see how it works out. Too much Crême Brulée for me to skip. I'd rather ditch extra crap-add on the V11.

I encountered this foul on an '02 V11 LeMans with a "bent tube" speedometer drive (that had been repurposed to drive the earlier white face Veglia). The V11 would not idle and the tube had already been >reshaped< . . . After I tuned this V11 and >reshaped< the tube, further, to clear the throttle bar, the cable broke later. --->My bad. I gave the guy my original speedo cable and a known good angle drive. I remember him saying, "Whatever, I probably won't keep this bike." Makes me cherish and appreciate those of you who remain dedicated to our purpose.

I love that you guys keep pushing my musical limits! That k-Bop that @jetboy posted is so much fun! Here's what I came up with on the "best of" Tab Benoit inquiry (thanks, @LowRyter!)

Dang, bud, you missed saying "Spread-Bore" . . now, that's just fun to say with "Double-Pumper!" The entire phrase always reminds me of a girl I dated in college . . .

No wonder she has that, "Where the ][3|| is the Marmon!?!" look . . . Four months old and forty pounds?

Here is an interesting view of the throttle rod "tunnel" above the gearbox, looking from the left behind and under the left throttle body. In the foreground, blurred, is the white balance knob (mine has a "lock nut") that is prone to fouling the shock reservoir adjusting knob. Visible on the left, more in focus, is the mid-frame mounting plate that can only be added to RedFrames (not even the black ShortFrame of the Rosso Mandello without welding a mounting tab onto the underside of the spine). Also, in focus on the far side (right), mid-view, is what a right throttle body idle stop screw looks like all the way backed out. What I found impressive about this view is how the throttle rod "tunnel" is completely and entirely clear of anything else. The space is entirely dedicated to the throttle rod. No fuel line, vent lines, wiring, connectors, gnomes, or trolls. In such a tightly packed package as the V11, the design impressed me with this dedicated space. Important, methinks . . .

Well, it's obvious the poor thing will never run right upside-down . . .

What a fine friend. And that is such an awesome truck!

I recall a couple things that can foul one another on a tank install: The TPS can be fouled by the speedometer drive, especially on Veglia V11 with the angle drive. On the left, the throttle rod white adjustment knob can be fouled by the remote shock reservoir adjustor.

Perhaps an intake air leak? Spray some solvent, like throttle body cleaner, around the intake connections while running to se if it affects the rpm anywhere. Also,visually confirm that the throttle body linkage is seating back against the idle stop(s).

Raz was always been a reliable poster. The charts I was looking at were based on thread pitch (and hardness). I doubt that Threaded Pin is more than 8.8 hardness, and not the finest pitch. So, I'm seeing 79 Nm for a 1.75 pitch.

So, I keep looking, but am not finding a specification for the "Threaded Pin" that is nutted from each side at the bottom of the frame side plates through the back/bottom of the gearbox. The Threaded Pin looks to be 12mm, but the manual doesn't list a standard torque for fasteners above 10mm. Where did you find the 78NM value, @80CX100?

Unfortunately, the part number changes with the color, even if the part is dimensioned the same. Perhaps someone with both a Centauro and a V11 can compare the offset, especially on the right . . . I would think it likely the 1100 Sport-i sideplates are the same as the Centauro. So, there may be someone who can compare those to the V11.)

This is a good question! We did discover the center mounting plate from a Centauro does not fit the V11 since the driveline offset if different. Seems this would also affect the side plate configuration?

Looks good! So, jacked it up and took off one at a time, or?

I remember those great images in that, er, unlikely setting. Your red frame side plates don't look that bad! Some of the early red plates (on Sports with the finned exhaust flanges) faded to pink. And, gosh, those Guzzi "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" canisters sound delicious! Pretty sure I pulled my stiletto side plates after the 2003 crash to replace both the bent swingarm and cracked gearbox. In reality, they didn't need to come off even for that.

Dropping the swingarm is really pretty straightforward with the bike on a lift and a platform jack under the sump. That really is the only way I have found to actually and reliably grease the front U-joint on an early ShortFrame. I know I've had my frame side plates off, but I really can't remember why. A fit of lunacy, perhaps.

@Purloined, here's an image from the rear with the swingarm removed, and also the lower subframe (gearbox and swingarm intact). Gives you a view of how the frame sideplates are assembled

Yeah, that probably wasn't a great image to post, but it shows the frame side plates in all their dangling glory. No, the gearbox doesn't have to come out to get to the frame sideplates. Mine was out to get to that input hub failure. Scud posted an excellent sequence, above. We'll all pop by for Step #7, after the paint . . .

Heh, Emmy Lou was consoling my dismay. What looks like the rear drive is actually the front of the gearbox turned sideways, sitting on a box. I mentioned the actual fault above being that the input hub safety washer had failed. Took the time to seal all of the oil weeps and replace the clutch friction discs/springs. Yeah, pretty sure you can remove a sideplate without too much drama. Some of those nuts on the back side are hard to get a tool on.

As gstallons said, above, " . . . maybe one at a time?" (I would still do all the supporting to make reassembly more reliable. Also, taking off one at a time, you might be able to leave the swingarm in place.) I just now noticed, in that dramatic view of the frame side plates dangling like stilettos, the culprit of that necessity is clearly visible. The special hold-down nut in the gearbox input hub seen at the far left is clearly flush with the surface of the hub. It's retention/safety washer had failed and it walked off, fouling the clutch release.

These pretty things? If the engine/gearbox are supported and the rear subframe/tail section are hung from above, the frame side plates can be removed after removing the swingarm. Are you looking to refinish them? Or something else is afoot? . . . and, yes, image above is on a hosting site (imgzeit) . . .

Good thing that line was on the floor to keep him back. . . .

Seems these sump and valve over gaskets aren't just plain paper. Not sure what their exact composition is? I suppose I should replace my original valve cover gaskets at some point. They still don't leak, but are starting to look a little sketchy. I replaced my sump gasket a while back chasing internal "bell housing" leaks. It really wasn't leaking, though. So, "Hylomar" (or an equivalent) on one side of the gasket to make things easier to take apart later? [edit: FWIW, the plate is not above the sump, but above the sump spacer, yes?]