docc

+1 with Rolf, yeah, they are asymmetrical. Yet, as others have said, may a bit much in your case. worth loosening the entire exhaust from the heads, through the crossover's hangers, canister hangers, and attachments to the frame tabs and "grooming" the entire system, front to rear, to relieve stress and obtain a more optimal symmetry. Start at the heads and work in steps in a "star pattern."

Thanks for going to the trouble to put up your snaps, Locky! Looks like you managed to upload it directly to the V11 Forum, so yeah, that takes a good bit of reducing the size and such. It is likely now in your "Attachments" viewable in your profile. The Forum's "Gallery" is another way to post images, but still works better when images are hosted offsite. Curious who the "tech" is who helped you through email to get it done . . .

Best method is to use a hosting site like ImgZeit (my personal favorite for several reasons) and simply paste "Direct" in the post. https://imgzeit.com/

Not sure speedhut stores designs, but you can copy & paste my images on imgzeit to share with them. I really love the way they turned out! I just could not spring for a fourth Veglia speedo. Or a third Veglia tach . . . . Weatherproofing the Speedhuts, and installation, is a challenge, though . . . so far, so good . . .

+1 on Speedhut. They'll make the faces however you like. I spent some weeks, and some $$, getting them "just-so." I just could not not go for a fourth wagging, dimly lit Veglia speedo . . .

Yah, probably 500cc. Moto Guzzi made those from 1921 through the '70s! Left side has an exposed flywheel giving them the moniker "bacon slicer," a term I frankly find rather unbecoming. But not as disparaging as "pork chops" , which I find just ugly for our magnificent, even voluptuous, V11 Frame Side Plates.

I just scrolled 35 pages of ebayUS for ya, buddy. I think ya owe me a beer, already. Maybe Dramamine . . . Found a right side on page 19 that kept me goin' for a while longer. That's a seller in Florida with an 8700 mile 2001 Sport apart. I got a nice set of throttle bodies from them, but had to send the sketchy reardrive back. Professional outfit, though, and I found this after clicking on the right side listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-Rear-Left-Passenger-Foot-Peg/382918145903?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60695%26meid%3D014b614a706f40ebb6193110965afb49%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dsb%26sd%3D382919774820%26itm%3D382918145903%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

The chin-pad is a vestigial structure that harkens back to the design inspiration for the V11 Sport, the 1949-51 Guzzi race bikes (Gambalunghino). In those days, the racers would "chin the tank" to get out of the wind for those few extra mph . . . My chin-pad is still in pretty decent shape after all this time. Not sure how to "restore" or maintain it (?)

I can say that, yes, SpineFrames and Tonti were made concurrently. Spines were the sporty end and Tonti the cruisers (EV/ California and all those iterations) . . .

"There is no greater satisfaction than to desire that which you already possess." That my Sport could be improved 3-5% is pretty likely, but probably not actually perceptible on my part. To get the 10-15% improvement that I could palpably notice would take some intense, and expensive, changes. Perhaps to the detriment of everyday ride-ability. I am unwilling to make that sacrifice. There is that point that I know I "should" pull the heads, "do" the valves (and guides). "Balance&Blueprint", polish the rods, and otherwise try to honor the original V7 Sport Telaio Rosso race bikes.

Ya think? Chuck's favored "flask" . . . ^^^^^^^^^

My Sport? In skimpy clothes? Avert yer eyes! Centauro would be easy to spot from the right side. They are 5 speeders . . .

Perhaps it is limiting for me, but I have long endeavored to be the poster child for, "Yes, you can make a relatively stock V11 run right. (Even with it's "flawed" mapping and various compromises.)" IMO, as factory Guzzi go, the V11 is already "hotrodded" . . .

Um, yeah, add gear oil through the upper fill point behind the speedo driver. BrakeKleen, and other solvents, will likely recover the mistake pouring oil into the clutch space. Removing the starter motor gives even better access to that space to clean it out.

I’ve long wondered why the tach says ITI but the speedo has that “Dur” logo. Any explanations?

How is that wear attributable to the “fooler” and not something like the oil change history or other factors?

If you’re confident of the TPS position and rest of the tune, you can easily braise the value of the CO in guzzidiag. Since 1500 is just barely off idle, this *may* be enough to compensate for the freer flow. Without an exhaust gas analyzer, we’re just winging it. I have seen values of +10 to +15 make just enough difference, though. Worth trying!

So, no airbox lid at all? Just open top and what kind of filter? Have you baselined the TPS, at total closed right throttle plate, at 157 mV? Balanced the throttle bodies, how?

I'm not sure what's inside that forward facing projection, but is there still the original canister filter inside the sump? Only that, now, there is no access cover and the sump has to be dropped to change the actual oil filter? Sidestand attachment also had to be modified with no "sump spacer?"

All cool. Trying to figure out what the set-up is. I took the liberty of editing spelling on the original post. We're talking "Mistral", yeah? AFAIK, no one can tell whether there is a front cross-over or not. Unless it leaks, rattles, or falls off. (Yes, they can fall off! ) So, that's a pretty free-flowing exhaust. How is the intake set up? (stock air box, modified lid, gauze filter, "pods", etc.) ?

The challenge to fit this to your twin plate V11 is to obtain a gearbox input hub from one of the single plate V11 (Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni) that had (have) issues with thrie aluminum flywheel potentially cracking. There is, reportedly, mild fitting of the clutch pushrod. All very well documented here with reliable, experienced members willing to help. I had the privilege of pulling the lever on footgoose's V11 Tenni so equipped . . . buttered silk!

I mean CO at zero is better than way into the negative double digits, yah? Just trying to understand that the exhaust is "without crossover." "Full Mistral?" No matter what the set-up, my suggestion would be to perform a "Decent Tune-up" for starters . . .

You have no mid-point crossover and no front crossover at all?

The Bosch are good relays. I would still hope that they are being made outside of China, but that is increasingly rare. My Bosch never gave me any trouble and a couple of them are still blowing my FIAMM horns. The issue with the micro ISO relays is more a matter of ratings for Position#5 (and Position#2 in early V11). Even with "good" relays, and good contact, running any relay at or beyond its rating is a failure waiting to happen. Also, there have been considered opinions that some relays (Chinese made GEI, for example) should not be rated as high as they are. I recall member Rolf Halvorsen recently put by a stock High Current OMRON in Norway for sale. You can PM him and inquire. Otherwise, if it's a chilly night and, you have plenty of ale, Here is some "light reading" on how and why the OMRON High Current relay became a darling to some of us . . .

Also missing from that view is the regulator . . . Why not put horns elsewhere and complete the "slipstream" look?