docc

Aw, shucks . . . Seriously, everything I've posted about relays, and tune-up, and so many other things, are just complex issues that I learned the parameters and solutions from folks here, and other reliable sources, and made compilations that are (hopefully) easily searched and found. You guys deserve quality, searchable, and concise threads that keep these V11 on the road and safe.

It is always worth repeating a "Decent Tune-up" after any changes. Yet, I would wager the stock cans really stuff up the works, especially compared to something fairly radical like MIVVs . . .

Truth be told, I snuck in a podgy bar with a hammering face ground on. That made it past the Parc Fermé fence, but they were steadfast about, "NO RUSTY STAR PICKETS! NOT ONE!"

Yes, #5 affects #4. The advantage to using "Form C" is they can be switched around into any position. Only Position #1 (Start) requires Form C/ 5-pin. You're on the right track, buddy!

Also, PDBoulder, look at this temperature data. Others also listed some temperature data to see on that thread. Expect the last relay (#5) to run hotter as it is the coils, injectors, and fuel pump.

hmmm, wait, I see the relays the PO provided are "1A7T" . . . not 1C7T? These four blade relays? If so, do not use in Position #1 (Start)/ at the front of the stack. This requires a five blade relay.

Fourth day in Parc Fermé, one to go . . . then South'n SpineRaid bound! Hopes are high!

Clean those connections (mounting block) with something like CRC Electronics Cleaner, and treat with "something like" Caig DeOxit®. (There is nothing like it.) Pull the relays straight out. Don't wind them around or you'll be repairing the tiny, flimsy connectors in the bases. Most importantly, install the GH8E in all positions, but especially #5.

Some have found the handling improved. Lots of opinions that a 170 on a 4.5 inch rim was just done to get in on the wide tire craze. Same for the 180 on the 5.5. Also, you can look at the way the sidewall pinches in and affects the thread profile with the wider tires. So, the 160 (on the 4.5) has a “rounder”, more natural profile. As usual: YMMV, riding preferences differ, and no small furry animals were harmed making this post.

After struggling mightily to get my Sport to run right after the last Decent Tune-up, I tracked down a series of contributors. As is common, so many issues are "multi-causal." I found a slightly flinky TPS and replaced it with a PF3C from cacycleworks. Spraying throttle body cleaner on the ends of the throttle plate shafts revealed a significant leak on the bottom left. I recommend this simple test for vacuum leaks when you tune-up, especially as these V11 get up in age and mileage. Check the shafts, rubber mounting boots to the intake manifolds, as well as the vacuum taps. I neglected this last step and later noticed discoloration around the left tap. Snugged up almost 1/4 turn! Also replaced the dried-out cracked rubber caps that have been on there for years. The difference in idle stability, popping and backfiring from that leak has been an amazement!

Yeah, so RedFrames (and Rosso Mandello) were delivered with 170, but lots of folks have dropped to the 160. The LongFrames were delivered with 180 and, similarly, many have fitted 170.

Aren't all the LongFrame (2002 and on) rear wheels 5.5"?

Current projections put the eye offshore of the Outer Banks of North Carolina about 500 miles due east of Tellico Plains on Friday. Just a "projection" and five days off, but this could give us fantastic, clear weather. Although, probably morning fog up on the Cherohala with significant windchill at riding speeds . . .

What has gone wrong with my vent that it is siphoning off fuel?

Does that defeat the vent and the overflow?

I've also thought how much my (old, tired) tank might be expanding and contracting with temperature change: 95ºF ambient/ fill up with fuel from a 60ºF ground tank/ heat it back up riding then park in 70ºF shop space: tank contracts and spews? I mean, that sounds rational, but it has never done this before I dried the tank ot during the clutch service two years ago. So, this is "relatively" new behavior.

Thanks. Yeah, I thought that all looked like Nylon from the roto-mold. Interesting they molded in those internal lines and wire clamps! Trying to find, and stop, the fuel siphoning. I've defeated my tank vent by pulling out the cap seal to the vent. I've considered replacing the cap. It no longer sits flush (but looks to still seal) and shows some cracking around the latch.

Some of you recall me chasing a funky spooge drip/puddle that I thought was the Crankcase Vent Return Line. This really did turn out to be something new happening to my tank vent /overflow lines (mine are combined). Seems to be getting worse. It's like my tank is leaking, internally, into these lines. Inspecting inside the tank, it appears the (right side) vent line and the overflow (left side) internal tank lines are coated (with ?) even over wire hose clamps. There are bulges in the vent line (seen upper in this image). Does everyone's look like this?

Good riding here, west of the Appalachian Divide as well. Final shakedown ride today with v7cafe and his V85TT . . . ready to roll!

Not as hard a turn east as I had hoped. We could be in for some lingering feeder bands, but at least we’re on the lee side. . .

Pounce!

Interesting take on "waterproof." I've worried myself silly trying to seal the Speedhut clocks. A couple years on and "so-far-so-good", but looking to ride into Hurricane Dorian for the Fifteenth South'n SpineRaid. "We shall see what we shall see. Won't we?"

Or even "whisky" . . .

(North) Georgia and the Tennessee/ North Carolina mountains are a fine place for a Hurricane Party! Seriously, as those low pressure systems pull away, we have the chance of a gigantic high pressure dome pulling in over the Appalachian Divide.

Original Poster is asking about the 1998 1100 Sport. Whether the early and late gear shift levers changed remains an unanswered question, but this reference from Harpermoto seems to verify the '98 shift lever for the 5 speed was not carried over into the V11 series . . . part # 30 25 82 00; "complete gearchange lever (assembly): 37 25 08 05