docc

(Regardless of how you change the damping, take the trouble to have the springs spec'd to your weight in gear and sag selection. Springs are typically under $100US. )

The V11 ECU is not actually OBD II, is it?

But it rhymes with "Bungendore" . . .

Now we need to know what "bugger all" is. On second thought, I may not want to know . . .

It is common that the Veglia is not accurate (Vague-liar! ). If it is a sudden change, upgrade Relay #2 (and the rest!) to the "Best Relay." Condezeca, what did you use to compare to the Veglia?

Thanks, man! As great as the bike has been, it is the community that amazes me most. Sometimes I think I should get a parts bike, then realize that may be what I already have!

Hard to tell with all the high beams pointing up like that . . .

Thanks, Meinolf! The links all seem to be working again today. Folks, let me know if you find broken links and I'll try to restore them. Seems that sometimes they fix themselves . . .

Or would the starter I linked you to on MGCycle solve your troubles?

Yeah, man. Looks like a nice pearl white V11 EV? All my comments were applicable to a 2001 V11 Sport or Rosso Mandello. The EV has a different (5 speed) gearbox and different flywheel from the V11 Sport, so none of my replies are likely going to be helpful.

Relay selection developed into a long investigation with a promising outcome. The "Best Relay" thread specifies the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 High Current relay. I've seen all kinds of attempts to use something lesser, but why? No question tachometer issues along with running issues commonly = Relay#2. Relay#5 (the back one) is the other high current position, but replacing the entire set is a good idea. There can also be issues with the connections in the relay bases. I like to use an electronics cleaner and Caig DeOxit®. Kiwi_Roy gave us a whole tutorial on servicing loose relay bases: Relay Base Repair

Thanks for the heads up on the broken link. I'll try and get those restored. Running issues combined with tachometer misbehavior point to Relay #2. A complete upgrade to the Best Relays is likely in order. Best Relay

Can anyone help restore the links to download guzzidiag and TunerPro?

Haha . . . well there is that!

Also, take a look at Gordon's comments on MGCycle for the replacement starter and the "Alternate Starter": http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_159&products_id=1227

Original starter on a 2001 V11 would be Valeo, not Bosch. From the parts "fiche" ---> Starter motor Valeo GU30730711 Check with r3datom9 currently parting out a 2000 Sport in CA, USA. That would be the correct starter for your 2001: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20736-2000-sport-part-out/ Here is the V11 replacement starter that Tinus89 found in The Netherlands for 60Euro: https://www.winparts.nl/motordelen-toebehoren/startmotoren-dynamo-s/startmotor/c834/startmotor-moto-guzzi-1-2-kw/p582790.html "Aantal tanden" = 9 (tooth count) The starter you are using has 8 teeth?

True that, on following Kiwi_Roy's advice. gatorman, If I am reading correctly, you are trying to use a starter for a California on a V11? Certainly, the flywheels are different. Enough different that those starter are incompatible? IDK. Anyone with this experience?

All-y'all have to be getting really excited!

Yeah, man, I use the "access cover." I've only pulled the sump twice. I totally agree with what LuckyPhil, gstallons, and Chuck posted above. And I totally trust their experience and opinions. Thinking of what Chuck said about how the cover does not line up with the angled bottom of the sump, I realized I have been doing this with the bike clamped vertical and the lift raised. Being over on the sidestand and working off the floor would complicate getting that right every time. If you use a quality filter and tighten it correctly (significantly tighter than my old "hand tight" thinking, they stay put for the 5,000 miles/ 8.000 km between my oil changes. I had a Rossa Corsa here that was new to a guy. The PO had done a bunch of stuff to it including a "sump plate" of some-sort. There was no oil touching the stick, and what came out was about six cups of black, thin stink. My biggest worry was trying to get the filter out of the access in case *someone* had hoseclamped it. I used a dental mirror and focused light to declare it all clear. The guy still jokes about me breaking out the surgical instruments to work on his Rosso Corsa . . .

Here is LuckPhil's shift improvement thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19547-v11-shift-improvement/ Before diving in that deep, service and carefully adjust the foot shift mechanism and flush the clutch fluid. Also, verify the gearbox recall was performed: V11 Recall Notices

I looked back through for the solution, but not sure (?)

I've only dropped my sump twice in over twenty oil changes. Good advice on the threads and alignment. Years ago, Ryland3210 did extensive evaluation of the filter gaskets and declared that the filter needs to be tightened 1 1/8 (one and one eight-th) turns after the oiled gasket makes contact. The UFI gaskets were crap and likely contributed to the early filter failures.

Makes me wonder if "stress cracks" may have been why a Previous Owner enlarged the mounting holes. I've never seen a factory cowl like that. Were the "bum stop" pads only mounted on the early bikes?

https://4h10.com/2012/07/moto-guzzi-le-mans-iii-midnight-crash-by-4h10-com/

Pretty cool sharing the excitement with LowRyter getting some V11 together for COTA/ Moto GP to kick off the US riding season! Reminds me that we are just five months out to the Fifteenth SSR. Got me thinking and and