docc

Intimately related to "Polished Wrenches" . . . "Hammers"

I considered the double O-ring conversion (later model V11 change). Perhaps, I'll get that "reduction" as well and see how they compare. Why not? This is no real failure. Just an odd drip I would like to be rid of. Kinda like that *buzz* in the console of your car that want to stick a shim in.

Worst? That little wire on the edge gets into the motor and does ugly. Sure, there is the screen and the filter, but I figure I'll clean it up first. The wet-paper dry is a good idea. It is one of the last, annoying drips that I would like to see gone. In the meantime, it has been another great learning experience.

On many V11, you can "just" get to those bullet connectors with the tank in place. Much harder with the faired LeMans, but they may be pretty easily serviced on a Sport. LongFrame RossoCorsa (faired like a V11LeMans) :

Seems I read somewhere that the practice of cadmium plating is driven more by corrosion resistance while on the shelf or in the parts bin, rather than be the actual solution for being in service. Looks like I may be bruising the plating trying to dress this up a bit.

So, here is the sump "reducer/reduction/adapter" (GU01161330) that connects the crankcase vent return line back to the sump on the early Sport before the V11 change to the double O-rings. Thread outside diameter looks to be 15mm. I don't suppose I could install this without dressing that dinged-up tip and the shard of wire draping off the inside of the bore.

taking this deOxit advise and stocking up. a cleaner and a treatment? they make so many products. even the 'gold' Cliff recommends has varying applications. what's a basic kit to get? The multitude of their products stopped me from using it for a long, long time. The Gold has served me well both on the V11 and my music and sound equipment (guitar, tube amp, PA, mics, etc). I clean with CRC Electronics Cleaner first, but only to minimize how much DeOxit I use. Frankly, they are both pricey. But no comparison on outcomes. What Chuck sez ^

Sounding like "stacked tolerances." Cleaning (CRC Electronics Cleaner), treating (Caig DeOxit), and re-seating all the connections (fuses, relays, battery terminal stack . . . switches, every connector!) is all good method. (NO silicon "dielectric" grease, please! ) Nothing (absolutely nothing) works like Caig DeOxit. The Spanish Fly of electrical systems . . . Battery health of the AGM Odyssey PC545 is complex, but critical. Sure, a PC545 at 50% (12.5v) can still crank your V11 (usually), but stacked with a series of marginal connections, or low ambient temperatures, and it's *click-click-click*, or just the Brown-Out. I have seen, personally, Trickle Charger Death of the Odyssey. Low voltage/low amperage charging just does not go deep enough into the "pure lead" plates. The manufacturer (EnerSys Odyssey) is adamant about this. Even a cheap voltmeter can be revealing if you record those five voltage states I posted. Even if you have a non-Odyssey AGM, those voltage measures can be helpful.

But NOT an aluminum flywheel (one would hope)?

Just to (try and) clarify, the later LongFrames do have additional lower subframe bracing to the lower rear engine cases, but only the very earliest of ShortFrames got the spine-to-gearbox plate (like the even earlier Sport 1100/1100 Sport-i). Looks like the factory dispensed with the connecting plate very early on (probably because it is way fiddly to install around the fuel injection/throttle bodies). My March 2000 built Sport did not come with the plate. I have never seen one from the factory on a US V11.

DeOxit. On what? On every-frikkin'-thing!

Low battery? Put a voltmeter on it. 1) key off 2) key on, hi-beam, 2-3 minutes 3) cranking If she'll start, then also: 4) idle charge voltage 5) at "some rpm

" . . . a trailer . . . " That's a new one . . . How was the job getting the old ones out, Brains66?

I was jus' gonna start complaining that our south'n hemisphere brothers (winter here- summer there) are holding out on us . . . Thanks, LuckyPhil !

agreed. speaking as an ...rock will prevail https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=208&v=3B0QHAwtvbE So, there's your birthday present, -KG- . . . Happy Birthday!

My 110,000 mile Tekno have never fallen off, but have needed repair and refinishing. I'm on my second pair of bags now as the originals were getting right tatty. I have really put them through their paces, always carrying a serious load-out and the occasional case of beer. Yes, they'll carry a full case! (I admit, they ain't purty . . .)

"Crankcase pressure?"

So, I was thinking the ECU model is what drives the CO setting and the TPS procedure? CO Fuel Trim is set with guzzidiag (or Meinolf's method directly in the EEPROM). And that the TPS cannot be set in the ECU like, say, a 1200 Sport? Which translates to setting the TPS manually with a voltmeter? But, again, I don't know how the Bassa is configured, but just thinking it must be very similar to a 2000 V11 Sport . . .

Unless I'm missing something.. the TPS is reset manually on that model. I thought so, too. But I don't know how to tune a Bassa. The ECU is 15M?

Wow, man, that is a beautiful bike!

I think he has a tonti bassa (just guessing) so the TPS is on the bottom of the throttle body on the left. I did post this hastily before I went to work and yes there is more to do such as bypass screws, idle balancing and midrange balancing after setting the TPS. I was not trying to give a complete guide as to how to do it, just to mostly point out that a number of other things need to be addressed before getting into Guzzi Diag. I would recommend reading the thread you linked as well as googling it to read several other extensive threads on this. This is a good one to read too. http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html I read and printed out about a half dozen guides/how to's before I attempted my first TPS reset/TB sync. I followed Meinolf's recommended settings for my Tonti frame 1100s. Oh, gosh . . . I totally missed that Bassa reference. Seems I am the hasty poster!

Hm, setting the TPS is a good idea, but it’s on the right and there’s a bit more to it than that. Check out the “Decent Tune-up” in How to . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610&page=1&&do=findComment&comment=213277

nealwp, Also, confirm that your OBDII cable is FTDI chipped.

I think we we are safely to the point we can ask ScuRoo which one he is bringing home . . .

Second question first, no, the PC does not do what guzzidiag does. For instance, the PC will not adjust the CO Fuel Trim in the ECU, AFAIK. On connecting, have you read through the Basic guzzidiag tutorial for V11? The first post walks through the connection process. There are some replies and external links in that thread that deal further with this very issue. Welcome to V11LeMans.com, nealwp!