docc

Since the "white knob" actually sets the true relationship between the throttle plates, I cannot conceive that the throttle bodies could be in true balance any other way. Certainly, we can get the idle smoother using the air bleeds, even if the throttle plates are out of balance. Hence, the method of balancing the throttle bodies with the linkage (white knob) at "some RPM" closer to what we might be operating under way then "fine tuning" the idle RPM with the air screws to account for variances that are accentuated at idle. Also, I have found that setting idle a bit higher minimizes the idle stumbles and coughs. There are several other *hiccup* makers in the system to be considered as well . . .

Makes sense, then, that the white wire got wet and that was my annoying, bright and erratic charge light in the rain? Once out of the rain it returned to normal until the next deluge. (Also trying to be certain that the trouble is not in my gauge cluster. In that case, my Speedhuts are doomed . . .)

I ask about the connector because, 1) I removed the heat shrink from it before this ride to test the voltage drop at the black wire and didn't seal the connector as well replacing it, and 2) I admit don't really understand what the white wire does. The black one, I "kinda" understand.

I've had best results at (about) one turn with the factory map. Meinolf's map is written for closed air bypass screws.

There are those riding without them to no disastrous effects. When my Bitubo started leaking, I took mine off for a while, but didn't like the feel, especially in slow speed maneuvering. I replaced it with the Shindy (pronounced SHIN-juh) and like it well enough. I, too, keep it all the way backed off as too much damping contributes to the annoying high speed weave common to the early RedFrame sports. And nice black Sport, there, buellwinkle!

You really should balance the throttle bodies using the vacuum taps and a suitable balance device (TwinMax or carb sticks) using the white knob under the left throttle body I was under the impression something changed when the gearbox was replaced?

Missing washer mystery solved! Bled the rear caliper today by clamping the bracket to the outside of the swingarm with the bleeder facing up. When I took it off, the original washer dropped onto the lift! I had diligently (I thought) looked for it there, even using a dental pick to try and pry it off. Well, there it was, stuck to the swingarm where it belonged. That explains why even an 18 gauge washer set the locknut out too far. Having just installed my 30th rear tire, my original rear axle washer is rather galled from always torquing the axle from the nut. (I've changed my ways! ) Again, the Moto Guzzi part number for the front and rear axle washers on the early V11 (1999-2001) are the same part number (95 00 4219), but the rear is actually much thinner. I sourced Hillman "machine bushings" in SAE (3/4" x 1 1/4") from a common US hardware store (Ace). Here are the comparative thicknesses: Moto Guzzi early V11 front axle washer (95 00 4219) - - 0.112" / ~ 3 mm Moto Guzzi early Sport actual rear washer - - - 0.0825" / ~ 2 mm Hillman machine bushing, 14 gauge - - - 0.0715" / ~1.8 mm Hillman machine bushing, 18 gauge - - - 0.050" / ~1.27 mm Since the correct Guzzi part (rear axle washer) does not appear to be available, I went with the Hillman 14 gauge machine bushing and got an excellent 1&1/2 threads showing (thanks 68C!) with the new lock nut from BelMetric:

[edit: This OP asked that these posts be moved to create a new thread for the issues Tunus69 is having. A few of the new posts from the old thread did not make the trip. My apologies for that. ] > As to developing a running issue after gearbox removal, it occurs to me that the main electrical ground to the back of the gearcase on the right might not be tight or is otherwise disturbed. > I expect the airbox was also removed, so the air temperature sensor connection should be checked. > Since the tank was also likely off, make sure the petcock is now turned fully on. > When the tank is replaced, the clamp for the return line to the regulator on the right side has been known to foul the TPS. Likely something simple!

I'm such a shoe-in for raw metal and Olive Drab Canvas Duck, I had to buy in on this one. At first the "evolution' decals had me. Starting with the shopping cart (better, yet, with a little kid dangling legs off the back?), but maybe progressing through a silhouette of a classic "mini-bike" -> dirt bike -> street bike -> sport bike -> ADV tourer and ending on a wheelchair would be more poignant?

Well there was plenty of bad coffee on that 730 mile weekend. and cold temps. and rain But also, good roads, great folks, and three very fine Guzzi Sports. Finally received the correct Nylon locking axle nuts in 18mm x 1.50 mm, Grade 8, normal height, zinc, from BelMetric. My thanks to them for squaring away my ordering mistakes. I used my original rear axle in the vise and a 3/8" drive Craftsman "click-type" torque wrench to record "Run-on torque" with the nuts down a thread-and-a-half. Original rear axle nut (107,000 miles/ ~173.000 km/ 30 tire changes): 5.96 Nm Original front axle nut (18 tire changes): 6.18 Nm New/ unused nut (detailed above): 7.17 Nm I'd have to conclude that this is a "no worries" issue on replacing the axle nuts at some given interval. I will, of course, put the new ones on (along with a replacement 18gauge (14 gauge!) Hillman "machine bushing" (washer) for the [not!] missing rear. Torqued to specification "from the housing side". :luigi:

Cool! A Scud-mobile!

What a rare and extraordinary experience. So appreciated, your producing and sharing that video compendium!

Thanks! I am especially interested in how you incorporated the "off-road/non-road" sections in your navigation?

Here is the current take on the "Decent Tune-up" using the tools we have available today for ECU interface and TPS setting: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610

Fabulous, Scud! Thanks! How did you perform the navigation for a ride like that?

Did you defeat the Lambda sensors as gelos describes in Post#8?

Didn't need one to take it apart, but putting it back together brought out the joy. I offered up the 500g machinist's hammer and Andy asked for "a bigger one . . ."

Makes me get all giddy . . . my V11 ranges maybe 150-170 US miles. Then it is the *tip-slosh-hope-full throttle* roadside ballet . . . .

Can you put a voltmeter to the battery?

Try rotating the bars lock-to-lock while holding the Start Button in and see if she "catches."

When I rebuilt my twin plate clutch at 100,000 miles+, the OEM springs worked for me. And were cheap. "Glued" them in with blue LocTite on assembly.

The Sidestand Switch completely bypasses the Neutral Switch (in the gearbox) and center relay (Relay#3). Does it act any differently with the sidestand up, clutch lever pulled in?

But the fuel range? Heavier could mean getting further (and back). What's the tank range on a Husky 701?

ok, there are some things in there if you need them. There was a complete gearbox (I don't see it now). The two halves of the drive shaft (sold separately), header exhaust pipes for those trying to ditch the later front crossover. A Veglia speedo. An NLA Grimeca clutch slave cylinder. Even just scrolling over it gives me a creepy feeling . . .

jezzusjozufandmary! You can have a cheap-ass Chinese Tyco failure prone relay (used!) from this seller for $18.50US. Plus shipping, I'm sure. The best relays in the world are under five bucks. This listing is absurd.