docc

I joined V11LM in Feb 2003, and Gio that May. Brings a little tear to me eye . . . I lift my glass in tribute to a fine fellow and his long devotion to the V11 Sport !

Aw . . . Gio! Oh, you're forgiven. Just don't stop posting here! You're a long-time, valued member of this community! Good luck with the sale and we know you'll recommend us to the new owner!

Looking for help interpreting my "reference voltage"/ "sense wire" on the factory type Ducati Energi regulator with 1999-2001 Sport-style wiring: Voltage drop to the connector is 0.10 volts DC. (My headlamps have a separate, dedicated circuit.) [static battery voltage cold: 12.80v; idle: 14.20v; "reference wire": 14.10v] What does this voltage drop mean to my regulator?

"REPARTO SPERIMENTALE," indeed!

Here you go, Tom: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20329&p=230900 Thanks much to Meinolf for the reply!

I'm embarrassed to say that it took me eight years, like 31,000 miles, to get my CO zeroed. Andy York took care of it for me. These days, we have guzzidiag to get it right. Do not neglect your CO Fuel Trim! Meinolf has another method that he says is easier. Perhaps we can get that clarified here . . .

Very cool, early, steel finned exhaust flanges! So, so many great things about this bike .

I started a new thread just for setting the CO Fuel Trim. It REALLY is that important! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20329&do=findComment&comment=230889

So many V11 were shipped with the CO Fuel Trim set very, very lean (settings of minus 25 or much more have been reported). Do not skip this step! Zero (or optimize) the CO Fuel Trim on your V11! It can be done with guzzidiag, the original Moto Guzzi "Axone," VDSTS Pro software, or Meinolf's method through the EEPROM (which I do not understand). (Using a "PCIII" to accomplish this is considered rather *less than ideal* at this juncture.) Perhaps we can get the EEPROM method clarified here . . .

No patch (some sort of inventory or production label). Rider arrived with a nail in the tire. Removed nail, reamed hole lightly, installed Vulcanizing plug. Rode 200 miles to the South'nSpineRaid and the next day about 50-60 miles to the new tire. That plug was never coming loose. "Vulcanized." Seriously. Not sure why these no longer appear available in the USA. Best plug kit EVER. DISCLAIMER: Be careful with that Vulcan(izing) business!

Electric. This one: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328573_200328573?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Portable%20Air%20Compressors%20%3E%201%20Cfm%20%2B%20Below%20Air%20Compressors&utm_campaign=Slime&utm_content=2000428&gclid=CjwKCAiA24PVBRBvEiwAyBxf-Sfkncz9Jr7pYo1Bnbatnog-1CGmm4iasYkAtXKOE2HJW-SZov8JcxoClxUQAvD_BwE

I moved these last two posts here from Basic guzzidiag tutorial for V11, since the question is directed to Meinolf's approach to setting the CO Fuel Trim without using gizzidiag. Perhaps we need a completely separate thread for this, alone?

Here is an image from the inside of a punctured/repaired tire after about 250 miles at last year's South'n Spine Raid. Once the tire was off, I pressed the tip of my Benchmade folder *HARD* against the plug to try and push it through from the outside. No go. "Vulcanized!"

And, here, from the Philippines: http://www.monotaro.ph/g/00272909/

In my right V11 Tekno pannier, I always carry a "Slime" brand air compressor and a plug kit that (I thought) originally was sold by "Progressive" here in The States. I've used it a couple times and the plug is amazing. I mean really amazing: "Vulcanizing", even! This is not the typical "rope plug" that has to be shoved through a jagged hole and the tool twisted around to pull back out. These are conical shaped plugs with an adhesive strip that reacts with the separate cement to actually Vulcanize to the tire rubber. The tool presses the plug in using an axial recess in the plug without "sharing" the hole (making it bigger). I need to replace the cement (and wouldn't mind sourcing some fresh plugs) and can't seem to find them in The States. Anyone have any insight about this excellent product? Maruni Industry (Japan) Vulcanizing Cement Super Valkarn 11g http://en.vilparts.by/items/vulcanizing_cement_super_valkarn_11g These are the excellent plugs: http://www.gruszka2005.pl/p1071,kolki-do-napraw-opon-motocyklowych-mini-stick-do-kit-sp-maruni.html

Pretty sure this is most expensive grease I've ever bought: Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM Glad to know I should be using it "sparingly!"

The Persuader!

Hey, Tom! I think we should post your question on the more complete guzzidiag thread to get Meinolf's assistance. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&p=230853

I host all my images on ImgZeit. Especially images that viewers can make large and see excellent detail. https://imgzeit.com/tour

The Moto Guzzi V11 and the V10 Centauro: the pinnacle of Marabese Design!

Ah, thank you, sir! But, all good for now. I'm going to clean up the mess and watch for MGC to restock it. I appreciate knowing about the product. It certainly appears to be perfect for the drive hub.

I know that I used excessive grease this last fitting since the replacement reardrive was totally dry. And I'm a known nutcase when it comes to applying lubrication. I will simply pull the wheel and wipe off all the excess and monitor the result. The Wurth product looks perfect for this appication, but I'm having trouble finding a source for the Wurth grease. MGCycle is out of stock. Anyone have a source?

Looks like I'm using the wrong grease (and probably too much of it).

no one, I mean "No One" can possibly have more fun than we do talking about things as mundane as oil leaks.

So, the question is: How to properly clean, lubricate, and maintain the toothed drive interface between the rear bevel drive and the rear wheel? How much grease is enough?