docc

I have oft likened balancing the throttle bodies to tuning a musical instrument. There is a great, settling joy when the harmony is found.

Let's shake this very serious piano concerto thing down to something we V11ers can gather up . . .

I have seen many V11 tachometers adversely affected by a marginal Relay (especially #2 on the V11Sport/LM). That function is far more sensitive than the headlight. One can hope (while being deliberate and knowledgeable) . . .

Certainly, V11 are known to tune better with the airbox. Yet, a careful and meticulous "Decent Tune-up" is in order . . .

Sounds like it is in common with the early (1999-2001) Sport, then. The group of two are the last two in our V11 Sport/LM: Fuel/Ignition and ECU. The group of three will be Start (with the weak NC contact), the "Headlight" relay that includes the tachometer feed, and the "Sidestand"/Neutral switch relay. If they are all the same size (micro-ISO) as our V11, then the OMRON are well indicated. It would be quite a victory if the tachometer normalizes!

And, now, back to our regularly scheduled program . . .

That is what I am after to extend the range of my Wi-Fi router to the new shop area!

I knew when I asked that I would be instantly in over my head. Anything beyond hammers and slip-joint pliers is out of my pay grade . . .

How did you perform this "extension," might I ask?

Would love some higher res images to get a closer look, but I spy an original Stucchi bikini - lovely piece of kit! Also, probably Mistral canisters, perhaps an aftermarket crossover?

The V11 sport/LeMans wiring suffers from tachometer issues because of Relay#2 (NO contact) and, on the early V11 (1999-2001) failure of the weak Relay#1 NC contact. Are there three relays on the Quota, or five like the V11 Sport/LM?

Is that a handlebar conversion? FWIW, I have gotten so much use out of Tekno panniers. Sure, along with my AeroStich they help make mySport look like a tarped-down heavy load . . .

Yes, they can be overtightened to the point the rubber is pinched and curls. Tight enough that they will not turn by hand. Shin-Etsu Grease is our friend! Any changes to the intake tract (intake rubbers, throttle bodies, valve adjustment) and the throttle body balance (complete Decent Tune-up, even?) should be performed . . .

Thanks, @MartyNZ, that was the post (by @dangerous) I recalled, but could not find . . . " thats my Polish friend ;-) Kat unfortunatly she parked that bike under a car... " I do not know how to interpret that statement. Did she survive this event? [edit: I restored the image links on that thread.]

I have looked and looked, but cannot find the discussion we had about this impressive lady rider. Any recollections, links, or insights?

Lucky, indeed: my (late) sister worked for Irwin Tool in account management. An era of fabulous birthday presents!

Thanks. I see M6-1.0 is most common. In fact the repair kit I have for our V11 sump bolts is M6-1.0. My tap-and-die set has both 1.0 and 1.25 pitch.

Bryan, the innkeeper, tells me Building 3 is fully reserved while rooms in 4 (above the garage), and 2 (above the gameroom by the pavilion) are still available. He is leaving the Basic Rooms in Building 1 available to the public (but y'all could reserve there, as well). Remember to specify a garage space if so desired. (It's where The Action is! )

I have never understood this. M6 fasteners can be 1.00 pitch or 1.25. Both are "standard", yet one is finer and the other coarser . . .

More Texas, y'all . . .

Just emailed my reservation request. I am reminded that a "Jotform account" is not required . . . The building and room layout is "less than intuitive." Building 3 is the "Premier Rooms." Building 4 is over the garage . . .

Those Bosch were decent relays. PyroDan sold them for a short time before going with the Chinese GEI. Yet, even the Bosch are under-rated for Position 5 (fuel/Ignition) and, on the early V11 wiring (1999-2001), Position 1 (especially the "5th pin"/NC contact). Failure of a High Current relay can be an indication of voltage spikes from a faulty regulator or/and the nefarious detachment of the yellow charging wires at the stator.

Another member sourced the High Current OMRON G8HE from China via eBay and found them to be legit. While OMRON no longer produces them, it is not unlikely that some resourceful Chinese company bought up the NOS from other suppliers and has marked them up. Not sure what the US dollar price is on US eBay, but ~22 Euro for four is not bad (depending on the shipping). Of course, the price doubles if you want to buy five, because of their packaging quantity . . .

Groundhog Day (halfway through winter) ride . . .