GuzziMoto

I would much rather have a Lucid. Or a Taycan. Or even a Kia EV6 GT.

They do appear to be some sort of footpeg relocation brackets, as mentioned. They look like they bolt to the porkchops and give you a more forward place to attach the foot pegs.

It has been quiet around here about this. But the rumors have been flying about it. Marc was looking real good in Friday practice at the new track in India. Both factory Hondas get to go straight to Q2, When was the last time that happened? Meanwhile rumors are that Marc has decided to leave Honda for Gresini Ducati. I don't know if that is true, I am skeptical. But it will be interesting to see what the truth is. I tend to think he will stay at Honda for the last year of his contract, then leave if Honda is still the worst bike on the grid (or one of the two worst, along with Yamaha). Side note, Aprilia is looking good at the Buddh circuit in India.

Almost. I had a Buell X1, one of the best bikes I ever owned when it was running right. That thing was wicked. I loved it.

Or this classic

Burnouts = Good Burnups = Bad

Both those look awesome. Must have been great fun. Riding in the snow can be great fun, but it can be hard. It does make it hard to judge terrain, easy to hit something that you never saw. As to the adventure bike ride, that looks like fun but I would do that same trip on a normal bike. I don't need a two wheeled SUV to do that. The wife has rode her V11 down "roads" worse then that. But that does look like fun. Most of our travels down roads like that are now in a Jeep.

It comes down to garage space and time available to actually ride it. We have more bikes right now then we have time for. Sad, but true. I can't justify buying another bike without getting rid of one or two to make room for it, both space wise and time wise. @ScudOur two Huskies are bikes, 401's. One is a 401 cafe bike and the other is a 401 in some sort of Mad Max style with street knobbies and dirtbike handle bars. I get that some people like SUV motorcycles. It just isn't my thing. An actual Dual Sport bike, I could and have done that. But I don't need or want a motorcycle SUV. If someone else does? Fine. No problem. I just don't need something that tall and heavy. I prefer smaller, lighter, better handling, motorcycles. @p6xThe Ducati Monster is the odd bike out but it is the wife's bike. It leaves when she says so. I have a long history of Love/Hate with Ducati's, and if it were up to me we would not have one. But the wife likes the Monster. Always did.

Not a fan of two wheeled SUVs, but I really like the new drivetrain. If they make a sporty V11 sport style V100 we might have to consider it. But we already have four Guzzi's plus a Ducati and two baby Husky's, not sure at our age we need another.

What Pete said. It is true that you can't properly set valve clearance if you are at the wrong TDC. But if you spin the engine in either direction you will see both TDC's, the one that has both valves open followed by the one that has both valves closed, followed again by the one that has both valves open. It just goes on. As to spinning the engine backwards, in my opinion it is not critical with the V11 engine but just as a matter of practice I always spin the engine the direction it was built to spin. Spinning it backwards will not damage it. It will not affect setting valve clearances. It isn't going to make your wife leave you. But I would still suggest as a matter of proper practice spinning the engine in the direction it was made to spin. If we were setting cam timing or ignition timing it might actually make a difference. We are not, so it doesn't. But it is still the right thing to do.

Not really helpful, but the V11 was not really made to be a good passenger bike. If you mount the rear cowl on it that takes the whole passenger thing off the table (I would love to take you for a ride, but there is no place for you to sit). That is what my wife does with hers, she has the rear cowl on her seat so there is no where for a passenger to sit. She is fine with that.

On a different note, Kayla Yaakov is going to ride the Tytlers Supersport bike of Stefano Mesa in the last two rounds of the season. Mesa is filling in for Cameron Beaubier, leaving his 600 supersport seat open. As Kayla had issues in the early part of the season and isn't in the championship chase she is free to move up from the twins class to the supersport class. Kayla has been having a good season overall, with several wins in Spain in the Yamaha R7 Cup series. https://www.roadracingworld.com/news/yamaha-r7-cup-kayla-yaakov-wins-race-two-at-circuit-de-navarra/

When you are on a racetrack you expect everyone to be doing roughly the same thing. At that point everyone should have been accelerating. One guy, for whatever reason, didn't. Cam was on the gas, as you would be coming out of that chicane. When Yates didn't go there was no time to do anything but hit him. Why Yates didn't go I don't know. But that was not Cams fault in my opinion. It may have been a bike issue with Yates bike. I heard his electronic throttle connection pulled out and he basically had no throttle. The bike was in limp mode or idling.

Our craziest ride was on the Cherohala skyway, down that way. The fog, clouds, whatever you want to call them, were so thick we could not see both sides of our lane at the same time. My wife could see my tail light, and I her headlight. But I was either towards the left of the lane and could see the centerline, or if you were to the right of the lane you would see the line marking the edge of the road. I just followed the centerline, and could tell that if it was solid it was likely curves were coming while if it was dashed it was likely fairly straight for the time being. In hindsight maybe we should have pulled over, but honestly I don't know where we would have pulled over. You could not see anywhere to pull over. And being stopped on the road in those conditions seemed riskier. But to keep moving, less chance of being hit by someone else.

No doubt people on here have been through this. Alas, I am not one of them. I will point out that the hub that is too long is likely treated / hardened and just machining 6mm off it seems like it just isn't that simple. But I could be wrong. That is just my gut reaction.

Yeah, I am not a fan of combining that tail section with the rest of it. It is not how I would have done it. But then, it isn't mine. No doubt some would decry my using a V11 Sport tail section on a Daytona. But I like it and the V11 seat is a massive improvement in comfort for my sorry a$$.

I agree about the lack of filtration not being a good thing. Not sure it is as bad as you think, but no filtration on a street bike is generally not good for longevity. As to the wheel base, it should be near identical to the wheel base of a Griso. The only thing that would change that bikes wheelbase from that of a Griso is the rake of the front forks. And as those front forks look to be slightly steeper than that of a Griso the wheelbase should be slightly shorter than the Griso. But the difference is likely minimal. The engine, transmission, and rear swingarm are the same between the two, that is 90% of the wheelbase. The rake of the front forks is that last 10%, a steeper rake angle would make the wheelbase slightly shorter while a more relaxed rake angle would make the wheelbase longer. The rake of the Griso is what, 26 degrees? That bike likely has a rake angle around 25 degrees. So it seems unlikely it has a longer wheelbase than a Griso. Mind you, that is a long wheelbase. But it isn't uncommon for a Guzzi.

That looks to be a spine frame Sport with a fairly modern 8 valve CARC motor (like from an 8 valve Griso) stuffed into it. Tricky in part because the alternator of the modern motor is up front between the cylinder heads, driven by a belt as I recall, which would likely be in the way of the spine frame. The Sport was before the V11 Sport, between it and the Daytona. Think of it as a Daytona with a V11 motor but the older 5 speed trans. Impressive. I wonder if they switched from the belt drive alternator to one mounted directly on the end of the crank.

Spinning the motor backwards is not a major issue in my opinion, especially since we are no longer setting timing or doing anything where the slack in the timing system would matter. But I still recommend you always rotate the motor the direction it is made to rotate in. I don't believe rotating the motor the wrong direction will instantly do any harm. But it is good practice to always rotate an internal combustion engine the direction it was made to rotate in. The cams were designed to go that direction, the ramps on each side of the lobes were machined to go that direction. The tensioner in the timing chain was designed to go that direction. That said, do what you want. I do know that for setting valve clearances the exact position of the crank doesn't matter. As long as the cam tappet is near enough on the other side of the cam from the lobe that opens the valve you are good. If it is off by a little bit it will make no difference. Heck, it could probably be off by 90 degrees of crank rotation and it probably won't make a difference (90 degrees of crank rotation is only 45 degrees of cam rotation). I would try to get to TDC at combustion, but as long as you are in the ball park you are fine. No reason to stress about being exact. Your valve adjustment won't be any better because you were precise about being at TDC.

I think you may have it backwards. When you are in sixth gear it takes much more movement of the rear tire for a given amount of piston movement. The lower the gear you are in the less the rear tire moves for a given amount of piston movement. So putting it in the highest gear means that it takes more movement of the rear tire for a given amount of piston movement. Trying to do it in first or second gear is harder, it is harder to move the rear tire and every movement of the rear tire results in more movement of the piston. It is easier when it is in top gear. Also, you don't need to be exactly at TDC, as Pete said. You only need to be in the ballpark. If you are near TDC at the right point in the four strokes, meaning you are near TDC at combustion, when both intake and exhaust valves are closed, close is good enough. You just need both cam lobes to be on their respective base circles so there is clearance. No clearance and you are probably at overlap instead of combustion.

I had no issues turning the motor by the rear tire, just use 5th or 6th gear with both sparkplugs out and it makes it very easy to turn (leverage is your friend). Using the rear tire also makes it easy to make sure you turn the motor the right direction (you don't want to turn the motor backwards for any of this). I also had no issues using a straw to feel for the piston. In fact, I have never used the markings on the flywheel for any of this. Not sure if the markings are even there. I don't like sticking solid objects down the sparkplug hole, I prefer things like straws that will give if things go sideways. A straw can't mess anything up.

To expand on it, some are scared they can't weld something that they have used brake clean on previously. That is not the case. If you use brake clean on metal and then weld it any liquid brake clean still on the metal, or even possibly some fumes that are still hanging about (although that seems like a slim issue), will break down under the heat of welding and if it is the wrong type of brake clean it will create phosgene gas. Particularly common is small traces of liquid brake clean sitting in pores of the metal. But if you use brake clean and then thoroughly dry the part you can weld it. The key is, being sure all traces of brake clean are gone. As brake clean does not leave a residue on the part, once it has evaporated it is gone, you don't need to worry about welding a part you used brake clean on previously if the brake clean is long since evaporated. But if you only use the non-chlorinated brake clean on metal you are going to weld, or simply skip the brake clean and use other safer solvents, you don't need to worry about it. Since the possible results of welding metal that still has liquid brake clean on it are potentially lethal it makes sense to be overly cautious. I feel this is something you can't stress enough. Better safe then sorry.

Whoops, my bad. Everywhere I meant to type brake clean I typed brake fluid. Sometimes I am such an idiot.

It is, as I recall, the chemical that the lack of makes some brake fluid "non-chlorinated". You can use non-chlorinated brake fluid when welding. But do not use the non non-chlorinated brake fluid for welding applications. I assume it is some form of chlorine that is in standard brake fluid. They refer to it as chlorinated solvents. Whatever that is. But the chlorinated solvents can breakdown and become phosgene gas under the heat of welding. Phosgene gas is super poisonous. Can be very bad.

I love those things. It can be a pain adapting it to each reservoir, but it is worth it.