gstallons

You got that right !

And you grease them EVERY oil change .

Judging from the blue seals on the u-joint caps I would say you used Spicer u-joints ? The BEST !

You did use plenty of wheel bearing grease on the needle bearings in the hub where the axle shaft goes through the spindle ?

Contact a hydraulic hose / fitting store ( Parker , Gates , etc. ) and ask them about tools to straighten up the mating surface . They may have something in stock . Take it w/you , they might do it for you for free & get rid of the burr in the bore of the fitting . Also www.air-way.com sells fittings w/a replaceable o-ring if you or anyone else wants to do something different in the future ?

Conventional camshaft and lifters ; the camchaft lobe is not '' level " . One edge is taller than the other and the lifter foot "bottom" has a convex . These features will help the lifter to spin and slow down wear . ANY imperfections on the bottom of the lifter means to replace the lifter and install w/cam & lifter lube . Roller lifter camshafts have perfect height of the cam lobe and the foller on the lobe . This lobe needs to be ferfect to help keep the lifter in alignment . You cannot mismatch these components .

It is a hokey-pokey setup . You live with it or you fix it .

Huh ?

You can install a longer vent hose , loop it and install a plastic fuel filter in the end of the vent hose to keep any nasty stuff out of the differential . AND , make some studs to maintain good alignment when you reinstall the differential to the front axle housing . You don't want to drop the F-bomb discovering smeared sealant after you get it back together .

It can be done .......It will be a MammyTamper to do .

Make sure the vent is clear . Use a good brand u-joint w/grease fittings . I would use a great brand of sealer on the install .

What are you doing to the differential ?

Perfect

We have been discussing cap reforming at work for about 6 mos. (at first I thought this was a bunch of ____) . If a Freq ( Variable Frequency Drive )drive sits for more than 3 mos. , this procedure needs to be performed or you can have LOUD firecrackers in the Freq Drive . If you have ever seen a exploded cap it is ugly . I'm not sure what types , style or size this is limited to . Google or YouTube this procedure for more info . p.s. you can check them w/a meter and they can test good but when you put them in service , POW !

Is it ok to discuss "reforming" & or replacing caps on this topic ?

Al , I just ordered some from Waytek . Pretty good price . 50 min ea. # is the only drawback . www.corsa-technic.com is a good place too

You will see once you use the weatherstrip adhesive . 3M is the brand . And the bolt threads is where it goes . You can use a dab of hi-temp grease on the pushrod tip .

If you do anything , wire brush the bolt threads , clean with brake cleaner , dry and apply a small amount of weatherstrip ( none on the first few threads ) adhesive to the threads , allow to dry and install . A strip about 10mm wide around the threads . This will act as an adhesive. I apply a dri-film graphite spray to clean /dry clutch splines to prevent rust and allow smooth operation . The dry graphite does not ge on the clutch or flywheel surfaces

That is what the Dyy Film Graphite Spray is for .

What type of plier / tool is used to crimp these terminals ?

Merry Christmas from W. Ky .

It's good to hear from you

When you get to the point of installation , take some threaded rod and cut into alignment dowels to aid in alignment and installation .

I am sorry. I meant UBS not USB . The UBS fasteners have a flange made into them . Just remove one and get the same length , size etc . at a japanese m/cycle or car dealership . The only difference will be the head size .e.g. an 8mm ( Japanese/Asian ) bolt will have a 12mm head and others will have a 13mm head. IDK if Fastenal stocks them .I hate buying 20 min AND PAYING FRIEGHT. Does anyone know the size & I will see if I have some ?

I have always had success with Loctite 515 gasket maker .You do not need a gasket and it replaces the gasket . Perfect preparation gets perfect results . Mark the oil seal housing before removal so it will go back on the same way it came off .As for the crank seal , leave the old seal in the oil seal housing and try sliding/installing the housing onto the rear of the engine .Use a small paper clip unfolded to where there is only one loop . Use this to help work the seal over the end of the c/shaft . When you get good and feel confident , install the new seal into the housing .Clean everything and get ready ! Use a seal installer or a good substitute to make sure the seal is installed square and flat .515 [ not too much , just enough ] on the mating surface , lightly oil the seal / c/shaft seal surface and install . IDK if this plate has a dowel pin for alignment . I use to use liquid Teflon sealer on small block Chevy head bolts since the threaded holes went directly into the coolant . I would use a USB ( shouldered ) bolt instead of the factory fastener . Good luck .