gstallons

NO petroleum products of any kind are to be used around brake hydraulic parts. Block the 3 free pistons in the retracted position and use the hydraulic pressure of the brake lever to push the piston out. You can use Scotchbrite pad to clean the caliper piston , then remove the dirt with a brakekleen spray and reassemble with a brake assembly lube.

Do you own a volt/ohm meter ? Unplug the sensor and check the sensor terminals for continuity. If it shows reistance it is good. This is a thermistor ( a resistor that changes value w/temp changes) and you can check it by placing it in a refrigerator and checking the r value and then warming it up w/a hair dryer and checking it.

Onibaka......these sliders (cylinder head guards) are very important to have on your bike. Look for a used pair on eBay or any bike salvage yards on the internet in your area. Ride on !

Roy, your thoughts are correct. A roller bearing is made to handle radial loads only. They do not handle axial loads very well or for very long. A taper roller bearing will handle all loads with very little wear . A taper roller bearing is made to be adjusted for clearance or preload. A roller bearing is "as is" . They (along with any other bearings) will not survive w/o any grease . This appears to be the caes w/the Guzzi steering head. FWIW, GM products until ca. 1960s had adjustable roller bearings in the front wheel hubs. They were a JOKE .

There is an old hot rodder's maxim. "Speed costs , how fast can you afford to go?".....

Can you post some pictures and explain what all was done to complete the job ?

What color is this bike ?

Because that is why taper roller bearings are in the steering head. You can adjust all of the clearance out of them. There is no removal of clearance in a roller bearing. You get into axial load on a roller bearing and it will wear out quicker than you want. It is just stupidity that caused no or not enough grease applied to these bearings to cause the wear.

Make sure the shift lever is NOT stuck. Loosen the shift lever pivot bolt to see if it is the problem. You might just have to remove and lubricate it.

I am sure there are good welders that are members of this forum. They should chime in. If not Google or look in the Yellow Pages for a welding shop around town .

The mirrors on mine go into the 10mm threaded hole that is in the clamp that holds the levers on the bars.

The girl is hot. The bike is "about as good as it gets" !

What type of fluid were you using in the gearbox ?

The 2003 bike listed on the site looks like it would be ( in my opinion) a better deal. Would the dealer supply you with the PO's name & # ?

Uh..... I am not sure you should be able to do that ? Have you gone over ALL the bolts mounting everything to everything.

You do have the proper fluid and proper amount of fluid in the transmission ?

The setup on JBatisdsa's shifter appears to be "THE fix". If mine ( when) fails , I am gonna repair it like this.

there would be NO give whatsoever in the rod.

Yeow ! Beautiful part. Dept. of Defense price. Elastomeric ( I suppose) bushings are the way to go. Get it.

A little secret...........by replacing the cap I pared 16 oz. unsprung weight and reduced my pit stop by 30 seconds !

The O2 sensor is located where the engineers thought it would be best located. The sensor protudes into the exhaust stream 1. to get a complete sensor flow of ex. gases across the sensor tip. 2. the sensor has to somewhere . 3. You could weld a bung opposite from the other sensor and install an O2 sensor on that side and leave the wiring disconnected. The best set-up would be an O2 sensor in each ex. pipe dedicated to each cylinder for sampling that cylinder thus causing the need for individual triggered and pulse-width injectors.

It would best to Google for this information. It would take longer to explain and you would eventually Google or Youtube it any way. You can look a Phoenix brand reverse bleeder systems or one that applies air pressure to the top of the master cylinder reservoir to force fluid through the system in the normal direction. I do not reverse bleed any brake system w/ABS..........BAD things happen when contaminated brake fluid goes backward thru the ABS unit ! I forgot, there's a company ........Mightyvac sells a hand held vacuum pump that vacuum bleeds brake systems ! MV8000 I think is the #

If the fuse is melting or showing signs of heating up at the blade, the terminal connector has relaxed and is causing a bad connection. Do you feel confident enough to remove the connector from the block and crimp the connector to tighten it up ? Kiwi Roy has an article showing how to do this if you are uncertain on how to do this. This is a major problem area with wiring terminals.

Yeah, that's just wonderful.....an inverted caliper. Had to put it somewhere ? Reassemble everything with the exception of mounting the caliper. Make sure the brake hose is unclipped from the retainer on the swingarm. This will allow the caliper to hang down farther. Make sure the caliper is positioned where the bleed screw is pointed in the 12 o'clock direction.Fill the reservoir completely w/brake fluid. Dot 4 or 5 is the fluid to use. Back the screw out 1 turn and allow to gravity bleed. Have someone else to keep the reservoir full while you are watching the bleeding process take place. When NO bubbles are coming out of the bleeder you can tighten the bleeder screw and reassemble. This should work o.k. for you.

The bleed screw has to point upwards in order to bleed the caliper. I assume this is being done ? Gravity bleed is the only method you can ( w/o a Phoenix bleed tool) use to bleed the system.