gstallons

If you have one remaining key to the old lock/cylinder, keep it and sell it to someone (out of your area) who might need it.

Why the new lock cylinder and keys? Post pics of the defective parts! p.s. good luck with your Griso. It looks too good to be an albatross around your neck.

Will they hire you as a consultant for one penny as pay ?

FWIW ! The GOO I used is a Ford Motor Company product. The part # is E7AZ-19A426-A. This a heat sink grease you apply to modules that mount to a heat sink or use a surface they attatch to for the purpose of heat transfer.

Does "Honey West" ride there?

If Ratch' could find a way to put breasts on an engine oil temp sensor we could do away with ALL the other forums.

If you have the benefit of a bench vise, open the jaws open far enough to allow the tire to drop into the vise. Hold the wheel up about 1/2" above the jaws and tighten the vise to close any clearance of the tire. Then twist the wheel to break the beads from the wheel. Remove the wheel/tire from the vise and proceed with removal. p.s. Do not to any maintenance to your bike simply to save money. Any thing you do to your bike , do it with supervision or confidence you are doing it correctly and (I will use this overused word) SAFELY. You have all winter to play with your bike. You can also read all the "how to", GOOGLE, and hang out with your buddies, watch and ask ?s. Then fiddle with your bike with an understanding of what your end objective should be.

TRUE.... But if you "diy", I use a vegetable oil cooking spray on dismounting and mounting tires. If you are going to do it yourself, find a car wheel to set the bike wheel in or on and not hurt the rotor. ALSO put a blanket between the wheels to not mar the metal of the wheel.

I think we were in left field a LONG time ago.

This will become your greatest addiction. Get ready.....

Are there companies like Fastenal in your area? These companies usually have online catalogues...

The most important issue to address, is or are the rubber components in the fuel sysytem going to be compatible with the ethanol. RESEARCH this before you are sure.

Rich Maund, Sargent, Bill Russell,anyone but Corbin would not be up there on the top of the line seat rebuilders. YOUR butt is going to be sitting on that seat so you want the best.

You could install a prototype of Ratchethack's "handlebar mounted coon-tune oil temp sensor heat sink/variable resitor and potentiometer thingamabobs" to get things just right!

I liked the parade in BORAT much better..... That was the funniest movie ever made. The only problem was, it was funny ONE time only. Then you realized the people were genuine in their reactions and responses.

Yes..........

An oxygen sensor is used in a closed loop system. After the oxygen sensor reaches a determined temperature (with the help of the buit-in heating element) it starts generating a signal to the ecu telling the ecu if the exhaust gases are rich or lean. The ecu will decide to enrich or to lean the fuel mixture. This all works to keep the mixture to as close to the 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio for optimum power and fuel economy. Disabling the O2 sensor would be the most counter productive act you could possibly do to this bike.

That O2 sensor is the second most important input on that bike! Take the crossover to an exhaust shop. They can weld a fitting into the crossover the O2 sensor can attach to. p.s. take your old crossover so they can see where it is located.

What does it take to drop the pan ? 10hrs.? NOT! would these guys not clean their oil pan? Would these techs. put your used engine oil in their engines? You should NEVER install old lifters on a new camshaft. Also, there is a cam assembly lube you would apply to the cam journals,lobes and lifter foot (bottom) when reassembling the parts. For your own peace of mind, you should change the oil every ride until you are satisfied there are no metal partices in the oil.

Why not go all the way? I wish I were straddling THAT bike!

I wish there was something good to say.... hopefully it will get sorted out SOON. Keep us posted.

First thing. Remove the rear tire hugger. This will give you access to the bleeder screw. Remove the dust cap and crack the bleeder. If there is much pressure you are building up fluid pressure in the hydraulic circuit. Check clutch lever freeplay between the lever and actuator piston. You have to have clearance to allow fluid to return to the reservior.TRIPLE check your work on this to be absolutly sure this is working correctly. If there is another V11 there to check against, use it as a standard. If these are ok it's time to look inside the clutch.

Mine were worth EVERY cent! I try to check air pressure just about every time I ride any way. After taking a 20 mi. ride (on the Beemer) on a compltete flat, I started doing a little maintenance. The Guzzi w/Rosso's seem to do good on holding air.

That movie (w/ Roddy McDowell) was crazy!

$100.00 ! Wow! You are good. Are you on the show "Psychic Shift Spring Locater" ? p.s. I'm glad there's still some humor after a winter of oil temp. sensor and recesion responsibility arguements.