gstallons

Uh.... NO petroleum products.

You can jam 2 nuts together to get them loose and remove them .

the pitch is correct. Measure the old one to verify the length. The stud will not protrude into the acorn nut any farther than the flat of the nut.

What brand horns are on this bike ?

The acorn nuts are for looks only. You can purchase new studs at any parts store.

Will the nuts turn but not come off ? You need someone that is VERY good with a torch to heat them up to where you can remove the nuts. Then you will have to chase the threads with a die to clean the threads. Use new nuts, washers, etc. along with anti-sieze on the nuts. No nylon insert locknuts. I don't think the nylon will outlast the heat.

The "English" pronunciation sounded more like the Queen's Butler than your average UK denizen.I liked the Italian (lady's) pronunciation better too... must have played it back at least 8 times! A Did you get aroused hearing her speak ? The English version sounded less than arousing......

I listened to the Italian and English pronunciaton ..... Motoh Guutsee and Moto Guuzee. I like the Italian better. FWIW... it's grammar not grammer

When you say "hydraulic fluid" , I hope you mean brake fluid ?

Remove one without destroying it and go to a bearing supply warehouse or a GOOD automotive parts store. If you have enough money anything will work....

Amen......

No matter which bearing you install , pry the rubber seal off the bearing and fill the bearing with grease , then push the seal back in place.Practice on the old bearing to become familiar with what you are doing. Filling this space in the bearing will prevent any future problems

You might have to have an alarm on the bike, but that doesn't mean it has to be connected.

You need to contact the manufacturer of the painter's plastic and see what they recommend.

Good , now to installation, adjustment and then enjoyment !

A Hodaka ? That's cold....

It was on there some X ago. I looked after posting and could not find them ( again) .

Look on ebay for moto guzzi parts.

Docc is THE authority on this subject !

The words "factory specific tension" bother me. If it is cable operated , then you want clearance not tension. You say when you adjusted it for too much free play it works o.k. How much free play. IF this dealership is aying what you say he is saying , you do not need him to do anything else to your bike.

If it is set up correctly , it will sound like it is ready to come apart......ear plugs will stop a lot of noise.

My snorkels are in this box on a shelf far away from the bike !

Dont worry about it , just remove both spark plugs and rotate the engine. You can find TDC by inserting a screwdriver down into the combustion chamber and SLOWLY rotating the crankshaft. When it comes up to TDC on one piston it wil be with the valves rocking ( ex. closing and intake opening) . Rotate it one revolution and you will be able to adjust this side. Now do the same for the other side. p.s. you can use a stand and put the trans. into 6th gear and spin the wheel to rotate the c/shaft while finding TDC. You can push the bike forwards if you don't have a stand to accomplish the same results. After you finish the job , rotate the crank to make sure the valve clearance is never too wide.

After about an hour long conversation with a lubricant specialist yesterday morning , he said to use a manufacturer recommended lubricant that meets THEIR specifications. Also he stated that synthetic oils for air cooled engines are the ONLY way to go. Use the viscosity that is recommended. Mobil , Castrol , or any big name lubricant is good.

Oooooook .