gstallons

Sad to see. Everything Joe did was top quality work .

How much you have to spend ?

Can you post a pic of this so I can be sure of what you have ?

Is the new fuse holder bad ?

Are you running a 30a Maxi-fuse in a 14 ga wire dedicated to the charging system ? If so , go to NAPA or a auto parts store and buy another fuse holder ....

That's him ! Haven't heard from him in a while....

Speaking of head guards , what ever happened to the kid we bought the head guards for ? If I weren't so old I would remember his name !

People assume the dielectric grease is a conductivity enhancer . It is not. Search the word "dielectric" and then read what it is.

The PowerCommander takes care of(adjusts for) the factory (calculated for Italy) set-up.

I am the only other person that agrees with you concerning dielectric grease. It is to be used on spark plug wire connectors only. I use a Motorcraft XG-12 electrical grease on all connections. There is a Stabilant-22 for low amperage / low voltage connectors too.

Going from open to closed loop has been discussed here . It is a matter of accumulated engine (e.g.3k r.p.m for 6 min.) revolutions. It is not a matter of engine temp., air temp., etc. I don't know if you can adjust the total r.p.m.s going from open to closed loop. Any suggestions ?

The ground wire melted because of a poor connection at the battery or where it goes to. I don't think it is going to hurt to add grounds to help. How much trouble will it be to replace this ground wire ? I am not near a wiring diagram to offer any sure assistance... p.s. be sure to use shakeproof washers on all ground ( between the terminal and frame) connections .

After a good degreasing and cleaning , ride it for a few minutes . Stop the bike and dust the area with baby powder. The leak will show up !

Well, according to my Snap-On sockets , a 27mm socket and a 1 1/16" socket is the same. So go get a wheel bearing adjusting nut that is (27mm)1 1/16'' across the flats.

No, these are the SKF part #s . You can go to a bearing sales company or a NAPA type store and get them.

my tps was reading 600 mV but rose smoothly through roll on set it to 525. I will rebalance the TBs.....again. My air bleeds were almost closed. Originally they were 1 turn than balanced. Both times my revs were hanging when warm. Remaining patient (unusual for me) also trying to find a 27mm nut so I can change the freaking oil.... Still a sweet bike, but...... A 1'' nut is eaier to come by. Go to an automotive parts store and buy a front wheel bearing adjusting nut that is 1" across the flats.

Those #s are the part # for the bearings.

Did you ever get it resolved with the shipper ? Are you going to part it out ?

p.s. You do not want the throttle plates to be completely closed. This will wear the throttle bore and plates out when they are completely closed. You should have screwed the throttle stops in 1 turn after they contacted the paper.

Was the shift lever pivot bolt rusty when you removed it. If so , that ws your problem. If it is rusty , the shift lever will hang down when 1st gear is selected.

That is why I go to Fastenal ... They sell bolts,nuts , washers and all kinds of hardware.

Wooooo ! Dry ? I would put oil in the cylinder bore upon assembly with an oil saturated paper towel .

What is ACF-50 ?

A good grease will do. You can leave X grease in the cavity and fill it up. These are not a constant rotating bearing. In the case of a wheel bearing too much grease is as bad as too little. Too much grease will cause the bearing to run too hot and bad things happen !

I need to meet you to find out how much you know and discover how much I don't .