gstallons

You need to check ALL fluid levels with the bike in the upright position.

If your fuse f5 is the 30a fuse, you can flip the fuse block over and remove the wires going into that holder and inspect the wire quality. If it loks ok you can repair the tension quality of the connector. If not, then I would install a Maxi-fuse holder and 30 a fuse into the circuit. Look at KwiwRoy's diagrams and advice.

You can do it!

You can repair this with a Maxi-fuse connector and fuse to repair this circuit. The Maxi-fuse will do a better job because ALL of the charging current goes through this fuse. If you want to search the site for this repair , go ahead. By the way; the alternator output can be tested by disconnecting the bullet connectors and checking for a.c. output ( from the alternator side) with the engine running.

Did anyone post that: you can test the alternator output by disconnecting the two yellow wires coming out of the alternator and start the bike, then connect a voltmeter to these two wires and it will read around 60-70v a.c. @ or around 2500 r.p.m. ? We are testing the alternator (or causing an electrical fire) to see if it is o.k. .

Uhh....... No the regulator is above the alternator. The alternator is at the front of the engine behind a silver cover w/the Guzzi emblem. The regulator is between the horns. It is an aluminum item that looks like a big heat sink. If you want to talk and or ask ?s , my Verizon # is 270-841-1774 This goes for handitus too.

If the relay/fuse swapping doesn't get you anywhere, post for any members in your area that can help or point you toward a reputable dealer/repair facility.

What was the part # of the shock you bought ?

That is because your charging system is NOT working.

jesus,it took me about a week of concerted effort (with The Book) to solve rubik's cube, many, many years ago. scf We are going to keep my time a secret!!!!

Then do it!

Find a brass or aluminum drift, shaft, pin or something of similar diameter and start driving it out from the threaded side. I use a dry film graphite spray and degrease the bolt and spray on the shaft (bolt) upon reassembly.

Now you're talkin'..... The only thing is, you now have a two wheel Rubic's Cube.......

And that's why I said "very little affect".

BFG, consult with your insurance company. Your bike is probably totalled out........

Ha!

That's because they have very little if any affect.

I ordered the replacement bearings from MG Cycle. The suffix characters we're off from the stock (polish made) bearings. The replacements we're made in bulgaria. I checked the dimensions with a set of electronic calipers. Straight match. The base # will give you the same dimension bearing. Read my post again. The prefix and or suffix characters describe tolerances and bearing speed specs, etc....

Nor am I... His stuff is top quality.

Where did you purchase the bearings? You have to buy the best quality part you can find. All the prefix and suffix characters on a bearing mean something. Just don't hop into a parts supply and get a 307ff bearing. You have to look on the dust shield (if it is an original part) and make sure you get a comparable part...........

BFG, do you have insurance to cover this crash ?

The thread dia. & pitch is 12mm X 1.5mm thread. A Borg/Warner part # S4029 looks as good as any. It closes from 6.5-10.5 psi. Your vendor can cross this # to their part #.

Good luck & enjoy yourself !

I have found, the more vocal I am about K&N, the more I offend people. GM will cancel powertrain warranty on their use. They are a MAF sensor's worst enemy! What good is it to wash a filter and get the dirt particles on both sides of the filter, oil it and then install it ? I prefer my paper element any day and change it frequently.