gstallons

Is that for a Paris-Dakar crotch rocket ?

You're probably gonna have to get off $6-8k ... Are you ready ?

How did this fuel clean the crankcase and how could swapping back and forth seize the engine ? I run straight gas in everything air cooled I have . I want it to start and I don't want expanded rubber parts in my fuel system(s) . Expensive , yes . I don't even look at the price . There is a website pure-gas.org is a site that has a list of stations offering this fuel . Google this site and look around .

That's the same article I found out how wrong I was . I thought the were mixing up Bob Seger in there somewhere . BTW , just about everything Ken Burns does is GREAT . It may not be perfectly accurate , but it is good enough . This documentary also brought to the public Shelby Foote . THE MAN .

Don't tell me the clue is above me

I'm clueless . fill me in .

All I see is one small square .

I see you made it ?

I had one test done . It was given as a birthday present . It should have come with a disclaimer "for entertainment purposes only" .

You simply buy another bike . You need one more !

I hope you have tested the battery voltage and found it above 12.5 v and tested it during cranking . above 12.5v . You can test the starter on the bike by running a jumper lead from the spade terminal on the solenoid to the large terminal of the solenoid . If the battery and everything else is good , it should crank . If it does , your problem is in the bike's wiring. P.S. hitting on a permanent magnet starter will give you bad results . The magnets will come loose or break . When you have more than two segments in the starter case , you have trouble .

Yes . you should get 12v at this wire with KOEO . If so , ground this lead and your light should be on . If it is , the oil pressure switch is bad .

You loan your tool to someone and they blip the throttle ( 8k) and your mercury disappears !

First things first . With KOEO and the oil pressure switch unplugged , the wire should have battery voltage . You have a good circuit . 12v . If it does go to the next step . When you ground the wire at the oil pressure switch with the KOEO the light should be on . Y or N ?

I'm sure you could go with a 1/8'' dia. hole and see how it works .

You will soon forget the farm tractor shift quality of the original linkage !

The ONLY hard part is the staked screws !

Good job .

I am with docc . If someone else has been fixing things , they have probably f'd with this too . Check everything . Disclaimer : I am not smart , just full of ignorant mistakes and learned from a few .

Intense and incredible . Are you a machinist by trade ? How did you find these parts to begin with ?

go to an electrical supply store for terminals , heat shrink tube , etc. I will study the side stand circuit and let you know . Is your N light on or off at all times ?

I fixed my black frame by using the start relay to power a larger relay to operate the starter solenoid . Pretty good idea . I used it on our farm tractor to keep from burning up the N switch or starter solenoid . It has been working for 12 years . Remember , relays are used to handle amperage a switch can't / shouldn"t carry .

I have gone to uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink . This is the only approved method for FoMoco wiring repairs . I have done it for 3 years now and will never go back to anything else . Get this and practice doing it . After talking to smarter people a long time ago , I threw away about 5 lbs. of the Scotch-Lock connectors . P.S. do not modify the factory wiring unless you know what you're doing and why you're doing it . The guy that messed up the original wiring had good intentions . He just knew enough to mess things up . You should be able to get good uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink w/gooey inside to make repairs . You can buy the good stuff where they sell good stuff .

Scotch-Lok is the FECES of all FECES . That sh!T is everywhere . Especially on trailers .