Lucky Phil

So docc, just confirming the Omron Z2247-ND is the relay for the V11,is that the case? If so why do you recommend these, any particular reason? Ciao

Believe me the clamping force of the mount bolts is way in excess of the weight of the bike. Not even worth considering. Ciao

I enquired with Electrosport about the ESR510 and they advised me the direct draw from the battery depowered was approx 0.007A. Which means it should drain a 10amp battery in about 60days, give or take. Would rather it didnt do this but if you are going to relay it you may as well stick to the original through the headlight relay deal. I'm just trying to decide which way to go myself as my 3 year old Oddessey battery looks like its suffering from overcharging. BTW, "sealed" battery means sealed from topping up, not sealed from leakage. Ciao

The later 4 valve engines that have cooling passages around the exhaust ports in the heads require a full group 4 synthetic to deal with the heat although 60 weight is a total overkill in my opinion. A 40 weight will have better flow through those cooling passages and the big ends and mains certainly dont require a 60 weight with regards to load carrying ability. Seriously, anyone not using a full synthetic oil these days has their head in the sand. Will the engine survive without it?... sure, but it so outperforms mineral/fortified oils its rediculious. Its a bit like arguing crossply tires a better than radials. Ciao

The reason this has an effect is because every time you power up the ECU it runs through the fuel pump prime cycle and also squrts a shot of fuel through the injectors. So the engine gets two shots of fuel down the intakes insted of 1. Best to pull the fuel pump relay if your working on the bike and have the ignition on and off a lot. Ciao

I use Mobil1 0W-40.Dont let the oil thread muppets tell you 0 weight is to low a viscosity as its not. Has adequate zddp for a flat tappet engine.Works well, particularly in colder climates. Added benifit is you can use it in many vehicles, buy in bulk and save considerable money. So I run it in the following Ducati St2 Guzzi V11 Ducati 1198s (track bike) Ducati 1000ss(track bike) 5.7 liter Gen111 Chev Mazda Astina 2Litre V6 Hyundai 1.6 Nissan Micra 1198( 3 cylinder) Dont use it in my GSXR1000 due to the wet clutch. It may be fine in that application as well but I havent tried it. Ciao

My 2003 Ducati 1000ss uses the same rotors as my V11 Sport. I have aftermarket Wave rotors on both. Very common fittment, suits many other model of ducati and others as well. Ciao

You are way to upright on the bike and not actually off the side far enough or have your knee out far enough to get it down. You can get your knee down on any bike really and the guzzi is no exception, just check a modern racers position on the bike and you will see just how old school your style is. My style on the track is still very old school with fairly upright position and inside shoulder turned into the corner just like a dirt track racer. I learned to ride dirt and my style is very much the " prepaired to catch the slide and wrestle it" type but my knee is always on the deck. Once you get it down and become used to it not having it down seem unnatural. Modern GP racers have such incredible feel for what the tires are doing and the amount of grip they have that they can hang way off the bike and rely on their ability to keep things under control and not be waiting to catch and wrestle the bike. Traction control helps as well. The more you hang off the bike the less lean angle you need for a given speed and corner radias as well. So start hanging off with your knee out, the first time it touches down you will probably panic a little but when you get accustomed to it not having it down will feel strange. Ciao

Oh look a V11 and its flywheel. Ciao

Thanks for the reply Phil. My leak is transmission fluid - not clutch fluid. I know the slave cylinder is good. Since changing out the o-ring did not stop the transmission fluid leak (which could only be coming along the push rod), I know there has to be another seal - and just trying to confirm it is #7 in the parts diagram, and that pulling the motor or transmission is required to get to this seal. WIth the 5 speeds, at least the 2 conical pushrod seals were very obvious and accessable by just pulling the clutch slave off and pulling out the pushrod. Oh ok sorry, re read the OP. If trans oil is leaking from the front seal then wouldnt it be dripping from the Bellhousing? My assumption is that there is no point to oil being allowed to find its way into the input shaft therefore the front seal is more for sealing dust etc from the clutch side like a ducati dry clutch. Wouldnt it be more likely to be the front gearbox input shaft seal if anything? Seal 17 page 44 of the manual ("transmission cage") Ciao

Its the clutch slipping, quite common for a worn clutch to not "bite" on an upshift and slip for a second or three. Once its clamped up it will be ok. Its the first sign of a clutch one the way out. Eventually it will just slip on the upshift until you back off the throttle and it bites and then the next phase is it will slip with moderate throttle application. Dont let it get that far. Ciao

It wont be the seal at the front. This will be mainly a dust/grease seal. Clutch fluid wont really make its way up the rod. I just pulled the slave off my spare transmission and if the slave seal is leaking it will come out of the small weep channel on the face of the transmission where the slave bolts up to. The seal you have changed isnt the slave cylinder seal its a piston and seal assembly that seals transmission fluid. The slave cylinder pushes against this piston and a quick look in the parts manual doesnt reveal a breakdown for the Grimeca slave cylinder. Ciao

Torque is force and horsepower is the RATE at which the torque or force is delivered. So 2 men pushing say an identical concrete block ( ignoring friction etc ) One can push it twice as fast as the other. Both produce the same force but one has twice the power of the other Ciao

By doing it in a time warp. It takes 10 minutes to clean the old sealant off the cover and access plate. Ciao

As Guzzimoto pointed out, if it's overheating enough to boil the fluid the disk will be blue. Pedal going randomly full travel sounds like primary master cylinder seal to me Ciao

Then why after thirty years and near 900,000 miles of motorcycling has it only shown up on a Guzzi and predominantly on a V11? Same reason I've had the problem with racers, because in the heat of battle they unconsciously drag the rear brake. Usually solved for them by and extra return spring or rubber band. Racers have enough on their hands already so I cut them some slack. Ciao

Checked one of the later non chin pad tanks I have and I recon if you ease back the paint a little inside the cap hole in the tank and grease the seal it will fit. Failing that I would turn a millimetre off the cap OD and call it done Ciao

If you're boiling the fluid in the rear brake of a V11 then you have a problem with riding technique. As a matter of fact if your using it for any other reason than holding the bike on a hill at the lights you have a technique issue. Maybe fully loaded 2 up or on a muddy road I might cut you some slack but honestly in normal riding situations its a decoration. Ciao

Cost £80 and there's a choice of colours inc all black, one small issue the rubber seal around the outside won't fit in as there's not enough gap with the Oberon, Phil, will the seal fit in on the MC kit? Yes seal fits fine. Ciao

Or this which I have fitted to my V11 Sport. Good quality and fit. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CNC-Keyless-Gas-Fuel-Cap-Cover-For-Aprilia-RSV1000-Mille-6-bolts-model-98-03-/301684390299?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item463dca799b Ciao

Assuming 5mm is a misinterpretation it may be lifter/ lobe failure. Ciao

No, but here is the copied post Ciao I have 2 low mileage bevel boxes and both have play in the front bearing. adjusting the ring nut didnt have any impact on the play. Have used both of them and it doesnt seem to be an issue but when I rebuild the spare if a new bearing doesnt remove the play I will attempt to shim it out with some home made shims if possible. To check whether the play is in the small internal needle bearing or the outer needle/ball hybrid just grip the input shaft and apply a longitudinal rotational force to it to load up the inner bearing then at the same time try to move the shaft up and down vertically. If you can still feel play at the end you are gripping then the play is in the outer bearing,if not its the inner.Both mine are in the outer bearing and from memory I calculated it at around 0.0015" radial which I can live with. I'd rather it be less but it is what it is. Ciao

Nothing to do with this I'm afraid. Looks fairly typical, I have two bevel boxes with about 40000klms on them each and they are both pretty much the same. It's play in either the input pinion inner needle bearing or the outer combined split needle and ball unit. You can tell which one if you pull the bevel box off and apply a technique that is a bit hard to explain here but it can be done easily. If it's the inner small bearing it's an issue that needs addressing if it's the outer it's not too much of an worry. Drop the oil out and look for metal,if it's ok the you should be fine. Btw I have given detailed explain action of how to identify which bearing has the play in a post a few years ago. Try searching my posts. Ciao

Wait . . . why? Because an Aluminium head expands more than steel plug so removing will be aided. The opposite for installation.Its highly desireable to avoid installation and torquing on a hot head but if you have no choice then install the plug and let it sit for 5 min or so to absorb some heat before torquing. All falls under the umbrella of " good engineering practice" Ciao

Its always better to remove plugs from a warm head and install in a cold one, for reasons that seem obvious. Well to me at least Ciao