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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. If you are going to use a gasket you shouldn't be using anything on the gasket, that's what gaskets are for sealing between 2 faces. Coating gaskets with any form of sealant stops the gasket Keying to the sealing face. As I said in a previous post use the later metal composite gasket ....without sealant! They are far superior and wont lose sections. They are also coated with a pressure sensitive coating as well that forms the seal. Ciao
  2. Why would you want a larger oil cooler? is there some empirical evidence one is needed? or is it the " I just need to change something" deal. Ciao
  3. Did you use one of the later metal composite gaskets? will prevent this happening again. Ciao
  4. You can try by removing the rubber plug on the right side of the engine, sticking in a really large flat screwdriver between the teeth and the housing, thus locking the flywheel against the housing. I managed to undo mine the other day, without any visible damage. Just beware, this is not an official procedure. May backfire! Yes and don't forget to wear your blue and white striped butchers apron while your doing it. Ciao
  5. Yea both the same size and type. Check the bearing spacer length. Ciao
  6. Just replaced mine after brake side bearing failure, cause......a too short by 0.5mm spacer. Rectified that so expect decent bearing life now. Ciao
  7. My selector mechanism rework and and shift lever rod arm extension have been a revelation with regards to shifting on my bike. Shifting is Japanese bike standard now. Ciao
  8. You wouldn't want to see any more than 14.5 volts if you are running and AGM battery or you will cook it. Ciao
  9. Noticed the rear wheel disk side wheel bearing was totally shagged. Had to resort to the old bead of weld around the inside of the outer race to get it out. The spacer is .5mm too short which has caused the premature failure. Bonded an appropriate thickness shim to the stock spacer, so that issue is solved. Ciao
  10. I rode mine again today and can report that after around a thousand klms my gear selector rework and shift lever extension have been a great success. The V11 shifts like a Ducati or dare I say close to a Japanese bike now. No more missed shifts or lever tapping you on the toe occasionally. As good as you can ever expect it to be I'd say. Ciao
  11. I've had a later model 5.5" rear rim fitted to my 2000 V11 sport for 4 years. But then again you probably don't want an opinion of its performance and effect from a troll. LOL Ciao
  12. The OP put up a photo of a 2 into 1 exhaust system for his ROAD bike and my comments still stand. You can guarantee 99% that the pictured setup bolted on will have less performance than the stock setup and 100% guarantee it will be obnoxiously loud. The only solution then in keeping the muffler the same, is that you do some DB killer mod and then you can still guarantee that it will be loud and performance will once again be worse than stock. The only way to keep a road bike legal/quiet is to have the the muffler volume to attenuate the sound. Different configurations of the same capacity require different muffler solutions in detail. This thread has now gone down the path of race bikes and their requirements which, although the basics are broadly the same don't have the same considerations with regard to attenuation. IE they can be louder. So my factory Ducati TT2 from the early 80's had a 2 into 1 reverse cone megaphone without baffles as did the same bike we used at the IOM in 86. There were NO noise restrictions at the time that we had a problem with. As for the anecdotes about the performance of your bike and how loud it is ...well, we could all go on forever without empirical evidence but the fact remains the OP system shown simply doesn't have the required muffler volume to support a performance increase and a decent/legal level of sound attenuation and any attempt to keep the same appearance and quieten it down will fail on either count and almost certainly both. As for the advantages of attenuating a twin over any other design of the same capacity, well the advantage you mention is overwhelmed by the fact that for a given capacity the twin creates a gas pulse of twice the volume for the system to deal with and at a lower frequency. The lower frequency is much harder to deal with than what an inline 4 produces and I think its quite well know that a twin for the same capacity is more difficult to attenuate than a 4. Look at the muffler volume required on say a WSB1198 compared to a Honda at the time.The Ducati required much greater muffler volume ( whether it was twin can or the 999 box) to stay within the noise requirements. My V11 has to date had 5 different muffler configurations and 2 crossover. The only performance difference was with the new crossover which improved the mid range hole. The different mufflers are purely a personal preference but all gave similar levels attenuation but quite different sounds. Ciao
  13. What? Guzzi sells plenty of big twins with two into one ppipes stock. So do other brands like Aprilia, Suzuki, Honda, Yamaha, etc.. The main reason for two into two exhausts is looks.Being a two into one system does not automatically make it louder than a two into two. It can be louder, but it can be quieter. My Griso with the stock two into two into one pipe is as quiet as the wifes V11 with the stock pipe. My Griso with the two into one aftermarket pipe and the db killer I put in is quieter than either the wifes V11 or my Daytona, both with aftermarket two into two set ups. You may find that with a large open muffler it is too loud, but you could also restrict that large open baffle with a DB killer if required to quiet it down. It comes down to tastes. Correct answer.....Unless you want a pig ugly exhaust and muffler system then to get the performance and keep the sound legal you need a 2 into 2. The Griso is a good example of what I'm talking about,ugly as sin, and although I haven't been inside one its debatable whether its a single muffler or a siamesed unit, what with its twin outlets and all.Wont even bother with the Suzuki twin range and their attractive twin cylinder range muffler....not. You simply cant keep the noise reasonable and the performance good with a muffler as pictured in the original post. Ducati tried the single muffler design with their 999 years ago and to get the performance they had to resort to an ugly box. Do you really think that simply adding a DB killer to your single aftermarket muffler doesn't destroy any perceived performance gains you may or may not have got? If it was that easy we wouldn't have the giant ugly boxes we all have to put up with stock. Ciao
  14. Does that shifter shaft extension have an outrigger/support bearing? Ciao
  15. Performance will suffer and noise will be obnoxious OR performance will REALLY suffer and noise will be high.Take your pick. There's a reason large capacity twins generally have twin mufflers. See if you can guess why. Ciao
  16. McDonalds is the answer, start "supersizing" and sag increases, stick to the junior burger and in decreases. Its all very straight forward. Ciao
  17. From what I gather, the OEM oil pressure sender unit is not highly reliable. A basic mechanical gauge can be installed for not much more cost than a new sender. Then you will also know how much pressure you have under various conditions - such as whether the bike is getting oil-starved on hard acceleration or steep inclines. Some people just prefer gauges over warning lights - because gauges give you more warning. @JB - I have an external gauge that you borrow if you just want to test pressure and are not concerned about a full-time reading. Well I guess you may as well fit a Voltmeter, oil temp, and cylinder head temp gauges while your at it. Just to be sure to be sure. The one shown fitted in the photos above has to be in the silliest place ever. If your going to waste your time fitting one you may as well have it in a location where you don't have to look at your knees to read it. As for the reliability of the std switch well you can just replace it every 5 years or so and cover that if its such a worry. What is it with Guzzi riders and gauges.Oil pressure,oil temp, voltmeters.....where will it end. Ciao
  18. Why in the world would you want to run an OPG? Ciao
  19. Doing the rear brake pads on the V11 is easy thankfully. These Brembos are pretty nice to work on. Small though. I am amazed how they threw on such a small caliper on a 550lbs bike. Can't wait to get my Scura with the 4 piston caliper from a V11 Jackal. Should of had a 4 piston from the start. Who the hell uses the rear brake for slowing or stopping on a sports bike anyway. A four piston caliper would be a ridiculous overkill. Ciao
  20. Just a small hammer. I only get it out so the Guzzi knows I'm serious and not to mess me about. Ciao
  21. I'm 6'2'' with long legs and why anyone would want to fit lowered pegs (or worse still further forward) is beyond me. Here is my peg solution ( Ducati 1000ss pillion pegs off ebay) Ciao
  22. So $294 and he didn't spend 5 min painting the needle while he had it apart because he wasn't told to!!! He wouldn't get my recommendation. Ciao
  23. No the Guzzi system is flawed in that the regulator senses voltage off the light circuit and when the lights are turned on there is a voltage drop in the circuit that isn't reflected at the battery. The reg then thinks battery voltage is low and overcharges the battery. Lower draw LED's would minimize the effect but the solution is to either wire the headlight circuit or the reg directly off the battery. I went the former and included some relays in the system to remove the load from the handle bar switch assy. The problem with the reg wired directly from the battery is that its always "live" and will drain the battery over time. Ciao
  24. Never fails to amaze me how easily people are impressed. Ciao
  25. Wrong on both counts, perfectly adequate test using air, crack pressure is crack pressure at 60psi oil or air doesnt matter. If you were interested in the flow rate after it cracked then it would. No its a straight piston and spring,pump pressure one side crankcase pressure the other,so for all intents and purposes its spring preload that determines the crack pressure Ciao
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