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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Hey guys all good info thanks. I'm still rebuilding the heads for my engine but work and family commitments are making the progress slow. Ciao
  2. I believe that although the TPS's differ physically they give the same voltages per rotational degrees so it's just a connector issue. I have a MY15m ecu for my conversion and I spoke to Cliff a few years ago about the maps and at that time he didn't have a map specifically for the V10 but said customers had used the base V11 map as a starting point and it was quite close to the mark. Ciao
  3. Hey Gritman well done. Please keep us updated on the tuning process. Ciao
  4. Lucky Phil

    x over

    Yes I went with the stucchi on the strength of that report. Ciao
  5. Interesting thread and ill pass on a related tip. My ST2 had very vauge steering and after I had done a few thousand KLMs on it ( it was bought this way from a friend)it developed an annoying habit of variable front brake lever freeplay. Thinking I had a master cylinder on the way out i was prepairing to replace that and decided on a new front tyre to correct the vauge steering. When I pulled the front wheel the wheel bearings were toast. Not bad enough to be scary but enough to give about a millimeter of play at the rim. This was causing the brake pads to be pushed back into the calipers under diffewrent conditions( so when you pulled up in a straight line at the lights the pads supported the bearings and you had decent lever when you tried them when stopped. Go around a corner and then brake and the lever had freeplay again after the disks had pushed the pads back due to the wheel movement) it was also the reason for the steering issues. Just something to bear in mind for the future. New wheel bearings fixed both issues completely. Ciao
  6. Lucky Phil

    x over

    Do you know manufacturer? Agostinis website shows a piece similar to yours, but with a mount plate fitted: http://www.torquepowermotorcycles.com.au/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=111 Stucchi x-over that I have (below) is basically 2 tubes. It also has a mountplate: Yes mines the Stucchi with the support, no issues with mine. I personally wouldnt use the non support type. Ciao
  7. You need to get off the bike more and get some value out of those knee scrapers and save the side stand. Get your toes on the pegs and tuck your feet in to keep your boots off the deck. Try some road race boots as well, those big clod hoppers wont offer you much feel through the pegs. Ciao
  8. Lucky Phil

    x over

    Im sure Agostini's will look after you, Ive had good dealings with them in the past Ciao
  9. Well Rich its nice to hear your rider has a lot of experience at the Island because that counts for a lot. Slow steering old buses like 70's and 80's Guzzies may seem like a great thing for the Island but if you get it wrong at some point then its hard to get them back on line. The lazy steering can get you into trouble. Ciao
  10. What, up against TT2 and F1 Ducatis? dream on my friend. Ciao
  11. I was at the TT twice in the eighties as a mechanic and pit crew. Ciao
  12. Probably why they got they're butt kicked at Daytona in the BOTT.Oh wait ,they won. This is what you want http://www.odd-bike.com/2013/03/moto-guzzi-mgs-01-cooking-goose.html but a built up Daytona would be within reach and quite competent in a Classic race. I like the way Americans and others for that matter think that BOTT has some sort of ranking in the greater world of international racing. Its an amateur racing series and interesting for that but its many many levels below professional racing and thats what I judge a machine from. Is it competative at the TOP professional level in its day, or not. Its like Dr Johns Guzzi's, loved the storiy and the man for his passion and engineering and what he achieved with what he had ( everybody loves an under dog) but really it was winning what?, some US endurance series. Not exactly the hight water mark in international racing. So the people are amazing as is their effort but at the end of the day their race bikes really havent cut it with the big boys. Ciao
  13. Well the IOM taught me that you need a bullit proof reliable bike with forgiving handling that the rider wont be fighting the whole way around because it will wear him out and then he will make errors that may kill him. Oh and an engine that you think is reliable at club or even national short circuit level may well not be at the island. Wide open down Sulby Straight for miles skipping off the bumps destroys engines and transmissions. Not really the place to indulge your abandonment of reason. Just my opinion mind. Ciao
  14. There's a reason there isnt many guzzi's at the TT, have a guess. I'll give you a few clues to get you started.......... fat,slow,shaft drive, handle like pigs. That should get you on the right track. Ciao
  15. I'm still working on the engine rebuild which is pretty much covered up to the cylinder heads with the exception of having the crank lightened and balanced. I'm going to run the RAM clutch assy as well but leave it stock except for the usual blue print job. I've also got the steel joe caruso cam and oil pump drive gears with the German oil pump upgrade. Parts are getting scarce these days and I've had to have the cylinders re nikasiled myself and new pistons. I'll get the cams and lifters gas nitrided and I have new valves to fit and k-line the guides which are seriously worn. can you believe one of the guides in one of my heads had 0.030" clearance!!!!! plus I need to replace a couple of exhaust seats as well so its a bit of a process. I'm also looking at some extra oil feed to the cam lobes to help with the wear these engines suffer from and converting the lifters over to the system the Later Grisso engines use to actuate the rocker. I'm not looking for horsepower just a sweet and reliable engine. A V11 isnt a sports bike by modern standards, so for me its just my fun road bike. Thanks for the tip in the fuel reg,I have 4 new fuel tanks here and the plan was to install one of the later in tank pump versions as I think they have cleaner and simpler plumbing so the reg shouldnt be an issue but plans may change. I think Ill paint it silver with the std red frame etc. The engine will be installed in the Green V11 you see in my avatar. I can post some pics of the engine if you like when I take some photos of it. I need to document the build anyway so I'll get them done. Ciao
  16. Thanks Gritman, simple yet effective solution. I'm still rebuilding my V10 engine for the swap, so this is all great info and time saving for me. Ciao
  17. Hey gritman I'd be interested to see a photo of your fuel tank mount solution. It needs to be raised about 30mm correct? Ciao
  18. I would suspect part 30 in the bevel box diagram has been omitted at the last wheel out event. Ciao
  19. Trying to ride around with the left cylinder dead and possibly still being fed with fuel will cause the r/h cylinder to be working harder and possibly overheating. could also be pumping extra oil into the breather and airbox which will be feeding the dead cylinder with extra oil and fuel. My view is, find the reason the dead cylinder is dead fix that, clean the bike up make sure it has oil, clean out the airbox, get it running, make sure you have oil pressure and no unusual mechanical noise and then look for the leak. I have a feeling when you get it running on both cylinders as long as there is no damage then the oil leak might not be an issue. Ciao
  20. I'm amazed when this happens and people don't realise. For whatever reason the engine has dropped a cylinder and the rider can't figure that out. It's a twin for goodness sake how can you keep riding it around on one cylinder. Not good for the engine btw. When this happens you shouldn't ride the bike, for many reasons, safety being a major one. Be interested to find out why it's running on one. Ciao
  21. It's only a "black art" if you don't make the effort to understand it.Can't think of to many sports/ sports tourers that benefit from a reduction in rear ride height. Quite the opposite in fact. I would be dropping the forks through at least 10mm maybe more depending on how you go for ground clearance and side stand length. It will regain some of the steering precision and front/rear balance. Lowering bikes for short inseams is never a good thing really. Better to adapt your riding style or buy a bike that fits you in the first place. Ciao
  22. Looks that way. Ducati 1098 regs in the early days were rubbish and cooking batteries everywhere. Something about them changing the supplier of regs. Effected other models as well from memory. Ciao
  23. Penske are a very nice shock, Had experience with one on a Ducati 996 Corse once. Trouble is when I went looking for a shock for the V11 I wanted a remote or at least convienient pre load adjuster and at that time Penske didnt have one. Ciao
  24. Very good chamberlin, good reference material for anyone else that wants to do the swap. Ciao
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