Lucky Phil

Wilbers with the lot, compression, high and low speed rebound damping, hydraulic pre-load, external reservoir, custom made for my weight and riding style/conditions. I have used or had experience with std Ohlins, TTX Ohlins, Penske,and just about every other brand of shock at one time or another over the last 40 years and the Wilbers is up there with the Penske and TTX Ohlins for quality and performance. Ciao

Forgot to mention the reverse cones come with DB killers that I never used. With them in they are slightly louder than stock without they are as described in the classifieds. Ciao

Have just listed 2 sets of basically new mufflers in the classified section for any interested. Ciao

Having a clear out, two sets of mufflers here for sale. The reverse cone ones have done 5 or 600 klms on the bike and the Titanium ovals literally up and down the road once to check the sound. So effectively brand new. The Ti mufflers have no markings at all on them and I cant remember what they were but they appear identical to Mistrals. Quality and fit is outstanding so you don't have to worry about that aspect, and they are the best sounding of the 5 types I have had fitted to the bike. A nice deep mellow sound without being too loud. The reverse cone Mistrals are little louder and sharper but still totally road worthy. Similar sound and volume to an old Ducati 900ss bevel drive with Conti's but with less "crack", a little softer. They come with DB killers that quieten them down to a little over stock volume. The reverse cone ones I'm looking for $300US and the Ti $275US. The reverse cone ones usually sell for $625US. Shipping I'll do for $95US for each set. Ciao Update....both mufflers sets now sold.

Well I guess that's their main function. My brake lever one needs to be angled to 45deg, its a bit flat at the moment. These are really very nicely made and quite inexpensive and with a bit of work on the levers themselves you end up with controls that look quite decent. The look of the std levers is a little rough. In the background of the photo of my shift lever you can see my lever arm extension validation temp modification before I went ahead and did the permanent extension. Ciao

I seem to recall that it was about replacing the output shaft belville washer pack that provides shock absorbsion. There may have been another mod as well at the same time, gear selector drive rings seems to also ring a bell. Ciao

If your bike has the additional eccentric adjuster for the shift arm then you will have the later assembly. Look on the outside of the gearbox cover and if it has 2 eccentric adjusters, the standard large one and the second smaller one almost directly above it then you have the later shifter/cover assembly. The extended shift lever arm is also applicable to the later units as well. This is another worthwhile mod, its a rather nice folding toe piece that allows you to adjust the shift lever into a position that keeps it well clear of the frame plate while still giving you the positioning you want for your toe. You can leave off the plate and just fit the folding toe piece if you don't need it. Very nicely made and available from Guzzitech. Cut off your old toe piece file the face flat drill and countersink for the mount bolt and its done. Buy a second one and do the brake lever while your there. Ciao

Yes you have the older style cover with the non adjustable selector arm overtravel stop (roll pin) As I mentioned Guzzi sell an update kit with the new cover, pins, plate circlips etc if you want to update. Ciao

The single biggest improvement you can make to the shift action of your V11 is to lengthen the shift lever arm and incorporate a new eye end mount hole 12mm ctr to ctr from the original upper hole. Shortens up the shift action to Japanese bike standards and gives the gearbox return spring greater leverage over the shift lever. It also makes the shift action a little bit stiffer which means you need a little more load on the lever before it shifts gear which makes for a faster cleaner shift. This is the shift selector. The area that is blued rides over the pins on the shift drum during the lever return after a shift. It usually has a rough finish and often doesn't bear across the full face of the pin and causes the shifter to hang up on return. Draw file it smooth and blue it to check for correct contact and if it isn't right dress it so it is. Do the other face on the left of photo as well of course.This arm always has a bend in it due to the way its stamped from a flat sheet. Carefully rework it so its flat and straight without any twists and polish the faces with some fine emory. The shifter mechanism stop can allow over travel of the mechanism. This one has had pads welded to the stop faces and dressed back to prevent this happening. Don't ever be tempted to adjust the large eccentric on the shifter cover with it fitted to the bike. It is a very sensitive adjustment that controls shifter travel and over travel and needs to be on the bench to set up correctly. It wont solve your shifting woes alone so leave it alone when on the bike. Note the detent roller, it often doesn't ride correctly in the detents. Remove and bend the roller arm until it locates correctly. Note the different covers, the later type on the left with the shift selector arm return limit adjustable eccentric and the older type on the right with the fixed roll pin. Set up the eccentric with about 0.030" clearance to the shift arm at its closest point in the travel. This later unit also has the extra banana shaped support plate. Guzzi sell a mod kit for the earlier bikes. A close up of the return limit eccentric adjuster on the later covers. The return spring can be installed the wrong way. Make sure when fitted the spring isn't contacting the cover, if it is remove it and install the other way. On the bench set up and ready to install. The V11 shifts like a Japanese bike now, short travel, slick shifts with or without using the clutch and no return binding. This is the mod kit which comes with new cover with eccentric adjuster, new selector wheel pins with the ability to fit the banana support link and from memory a new shift selector arm and spring and new centering spring. Note the shifter input arm and stop assembly in the lower right hand of the photo. The pin you can see under the shifter wheel with the spring arms around it is the large eccentric adjuster which controls the travel of the shift mechanism and provides the stops in both directions. As mentioned earlier adjust it on the bench only, its very sensitive and governs how far the mechanism moves the gear selector dog to engage the gears. If its a long way out you can have a situation where it moves the gear to a fully engaged position and then pulls it partially out of engagement during the shift and under engagement in the other direction. Ciao

aparently... so, decided to stay with the fairing and any after market LED indercators have 10mm threads and im not drilling out the faring to suit... having said that mine are smoked of a Buell same lense just tinted... so the tail light might aswell stay too with a wee diferance PS Lucky Phill... them pipes look the biz be it a bit long but that give beter top end right? Yes the pipes (Agostini cans Stucchi cross over) are aesthetically probably about 35mm longer than I would prefer. I'll cut the secondaries down that much and make up some new alloy muffler brackets when I get around to it. Haven't had it on the dyno for a comparison with the 5 different muffler options I have. Ciao

Go green. Ciao

That's quite amazing. Thanks for posting Ciao

Geelong Carbon Craft in my experience is expensive, heavy and is carbon skinned fiberglass. Ciao

Was there in September last year, not on the bike unfortunately. Ciao

I have a head sitting on my bench now with a rusty ring like yours still in it. They are quite hard to remove, if you're concerned put a magnet on it to confirm. You need to basically deform and collapse them to remove. Ciao

See that brown rusty thing in the photo, that's the gasket. Yep they can be really difficult to remove as they compress and expand into the ID of the port. So now you have 2 fitted, wont matter. Ciao

Thanks, this is good info and will give it a thorough inspection. Fortunately, I have very little invested at this point. I had interest in the PPG product due to some feedback they provided to an inquiry from a gentleman on a Buell forum that they did in fact include nylon tanks in their testing. Buell forum: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/296201.html Their response: "It should stick to nylon fine. Actually we have a small nylon tank from a UCAV in our lab for testing with PR-1005L. Do three or four fill & drain slosh coats to get a good thickness. Allow several hours to air dry between coatings. Since it cures solely by solvent evaporation, getting good air circulation in the tank is very important. You might want to put an airline into promote air exchange. After final coat let dry at least three days. " The multiple coatings may be the ticket. You're tank should be fine, I've dealt with that seller before and he is reputable. My accident damaged tank has paint that looks like yours but internally its fine. That PPG info is very interesting, will be keen to see the outcome of testing. Thanks for the info Ciao

Bolts not weighed as they are the same no matter what flywheel and clutch assy you use. Interesting the new RAM units use a steel flywheel. This clutch assy will go onto the Daytona engine I am currently rebuilding to fit to my V11. Rods are currently at Carrillo for a refresh and when I get them back I'll start putting the engine back together. Total rebuild....everything in the top end was worn out,but I'm doing the bottom as well with lightened and balanced crank, Joe Caruso timing/oil pump gears and German needle roller oil pump. Should be quit nice when done. Ciao

The issue with tank sealers is getting them to stick to the Nylon used in motorcycle tanks. The PPG product isn't rated for ad hearing to Nylon and I believe I have used this for years in the Aviation industry as a coating over the main tank sealant we used. Nylon certainly isn't a substrate in aviation fuel tanks. As for the others the same applies, apart from the first one which just says "plastic" tanks, which seems a bit of an off the cuff mention with no detailed product sheet. For those that don't know its not actually the fuel that causes the swelling issue but the water that's held in suspension that causes the Nylon tanks to swell and Ethonol fuels carry higher concentrations of water in suspension and also attract water more readily. Emptying the tanks and drying it out for a month or two in the dry climates seems to recover them it appears. Prevention is better though, obviously. BTW the reason the tank you have bought has the paint in that condition is because its had something heavy dropped on it and flexed enough for the paint to crack and peel. Make sure you have a very good look inside it for damage before you use it and or spend money on it. I have one the same in the workshop from an accident damaged bike. Ciao

Measured my RAM clutch and flywheel today. Older style brand new 10lbs 4oz Ciao

Any thoughts on inflatable vests? Yep......harden the f**k up . Ciao

Of course the problem with all of these solid ( non clear) tank grips and scratch pads is that the paint fades around them and when replacement time comes you need an identical one in the exact same position to replace it. I amazes me that people fit solid or carbon or carbon look pads to stop the scratches and trade that for a fade outline. Go the clear option. Ciao

The Ram clutch kits are the same for the non flywheel sensor 5 and 6 speed bikes with the exception of the actual gearbox drive spline assy and the clutch push rod. You can even use the flywheel sensor Ram flywheel and clutch in the non flywheel sensor bikes if you like. The later Ram units with the 1mm thicker clutch plate may well need a longer push rod, possible the one from the 5 speeder. Either way its not a big deal. Ciao