Lucky Phil

Because not all brands of fork oil weights are the same viscosity for their advertised weight what I do when I pull down a set of forks is measure the viscosity of what comes out so I have a baseline for what goes in irrespective of brand. So I use a very rudimentary method of a syringe cylinder with the plunger removed and a stop watch. Fill the syringe with your finger over the outlet and then remove and time the emptying or a set volume and compare it to the new oil you are putting in. Then mix and match weights to get what you want. If you need a different weight to whats in there at least you have a baseline and can estimate the change based on how it compares to the new oil. Its annoying when you're happy with the damping the way it was and refill with the same weight only to find the damping has changed. Ciao

Norris motorcycle cams are now Megacycle cams and have been for some time. Some info for you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/norris-cam-history.296994/ Ciao

On bikes with angled bars you also get air trapped at the master cylinder connection. Loosen off the master and remove from the bar with the line still connected obviously and carefully raise the lever end until its slightly higher than the connection ( you need the reservior level under half usually) and then very carefully work the lever slightly, repeatedly,just taking the freeplay out of it and you will notice air bubbles coming into the reservior. Bolt it back on the bar and check. Juggling the lever with it in the position mentioned breaks free the bubbles in the connector point and they then float into the reservior through the return port. Ciao

Try emailing them, like many companies they dont necessarily advertise for 16 year old bikes but can possibly make on request. Ciao

The guys at MG Cycle have assured me this kit will seamlessly replace the clutch assembly in my 2001 Rosso and is in stock. And they suggested it's about half the price of replacing the existing single plate clutch with an OEM dual plate clutch. It will apart from the gearbox drive spline piece (leave the original one in place) and MAYBE the clutch push rod. The main clutch and flywheel unit is the same as the 5 speeders with the possible exception of the push rod receptacle. There is a thread on the push rod issue here somewhere and whether or not you need a 5 speed one. The most economical way for you I believe. Ciao

Check Huite's bike bike on Paul Minnaerts site, its fitted with PVM wheels. http://www.fastguzzi.nl/ Ciao

Apologies seems I'm missing a lot of details these days. Ciao

- Replaced cam chain and tensioner for the Stucci type with spring. Cold idle improved again, no change. Rattle remained. He did that.. hard for me to hear anything not normal in the video accept what sounds like you dropped a tool off camera.. better than a hose put the butt of a big screw driver to your ear and place the tip around the block, heads, timing cover etc to try isolating the noise. Ok, missed that although if the chain is shagged ( which it shouldnt be at those miles) it still might rattle anyway. Just a thought. Ciao

It wont be detonation at idle, sounds a bit like the cam chain. Might be time to check the tensioner Ciao

Prostrate cancer Roy? Is that the lying face down stretched out cancer? Ciao

My extender arrived today Chuck, really nice piece. Thanks very much to you and docc. Ciao

Warning? not really its not the plate its the flywheel that fails and can take out the crankcases with it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16675 Ciao

Like Chuck said if its done that kind of mileage on the originl single plate clutch then its about time to pull it down and replace the flywheel and clutch assy. The outcome for a failed unit is too severe and dangerous and its a matter of when not if. Your shifting issue sound like clutch not gearbox to me. Ciao

By unearthed issues - do you mean that adding the part has caused or amplified an existing problem? Since upshifts are better, does this mean you are having trouble with downshifts? If so that sounds about like the current state of my LeMans. Now awaiting some parts and will get into the shifter once more. I think I'll install the extender first, just in the name of scientific experimentation and isolating variables. This gearbox has a certain technique to it that is slightly different to say a Ducati or Japanese box. I always preload the shifter when shifting in both direction. Also due to the design of the detenting mechanism it requires you "follow through" with shifts especially in the upper gears. The detent cylinder on a ducati for example looks like a pointed star from the end so the detent roller is either either going to slot into the next gear or spring back into the previous on a sloppy or lazy/relaxed shift. The V11 detent wheel has slots with flat sections between the gears, most notably on the upper gears so the detent mechanism isnt necessarily going to "help you out" with a lazy shift. The other thing is due to the Guzzi's heavy flywheel you cant just flick the throttle for downshifts like you can with a Ducati, you have to lean more to the roll it on for it to catch revs, this also makes down shifts less fluid. I suspect the Guzzi will shift better still when I fit the RAM clutch unit. Forgive me if I'm telling you things you already know, and if you dont already do it try downshift preload. I've just always done it on the guzzi, not necessary on other bikes I've ridden. Ciao

I wish I had not read that... Now I want a CF tank for my Scura. I'm sure it's cost prohibitive but there are folks out there making tanks out of Carbon Fiber. They have never setup the shop section of their website as they probably figured out that only Ducati folk are willing to spend this kind of money. They usually show up at Barber's every year so you might get them to ballpark a price. They do some lovely things to a v11 sport. http://www.moto-studio.com You know I've had some experience making fibreglass tanks for bikes from scratch, which means using a pre existing tank and making a mold of the top and base then joining them and sealing. Its not something I have time for at the moment but its not an outrageously hard thing to do for those that do it professionally. Whether its wet laid carbon or glass wouldnt make a huge difference to the ultimate price and the V11 tank underside and mounts are very simple and easy to mold. May be worth investigating a group buy and approach people that do this stuff as I believe you should be able to keep the cost to under a grand US with a reasonable amount of orders. Ciao

Thanks Chuck, I'm not stressed about it although I did note the one to NZ was a fast post. Those Kiwis always seem to have it over us Aussies:) Zink Chromate green is fine Chuck, reminds me of the old days when we were allowed to use such stuff on aeroplanes, along with Mastinox. Thanks to docc as well for covering the postage. Hope everyone is happy with the performance. Ciao

Havent received mine yet Chuck Ciao

Stop Press.... Guzzi consider moon landing. Ciao

Ah very good, Carrillo's are very nice rods, I've used them in Ducatis in the past. I've also seen them used in race engines way beyond their recommended limits and hang together. Pull them out straighten out the twist they have picked up and re use. Very tough rods. Did you ask for ones with oil squirters under the pistons? If not would probably be worth it. Something else that the balancer might not know or miss, Guzziology recommends the later post 93 52% balance factor instead of the 50% that Guzzi used in pre 93 engines, says its smoother. 50% is the normal 90 deg V twin balance factor ( Ducatis) however the Guzzi is transverse and this can mean a slightly different factor is required. Also make sure the balancer calculates the weight of the oil in the pin in his calculations. Just something to check if he's not used to doing twin cylinder motorcycle engines. Ciao

I would just do the balance the valves and guides and careful re assembly myself, maybe a cam. You know, squish, CC the heads, clean up the ports etc. Sorry, Specified? Ciao Sent them the dimensions of the rods you want made. They don't appear to have Guzzi in there database, and certainly don;t keep them on the shelf. Oh,ok right you are, no listing on their site. I bought them on ebay a few years back from a shop in Germany that had a batch made. Ciao

Hey Bruce, Chuck is kindly sending me a special red one so when it arrives and I've fitted it you can have my original fabricated one if you like. Ciao

I would just do the balance the valves and guides and careful re assembly myself, maybe a cam. You know, squish, CC the heads, clean up the ports etc. Sorry, Specified? Ciao

I hear ya, finding people that can do things like this right is always a problem. I can give you someone that will do it right but it means shipping here to Australia. You wont have any issues with it idling or general rideability, the RAM clutch will be a big improvement. Ciao

Moving the battery under the tank is a bad idea, it moves the C of G higher and puts the battery in a hot inaccessible location. Forget it. As for the locks the front before the rear lifts, well thats not my experience. As for a dynamic improvement, go out and pull the rear wheel off your V11 and put it on the scales, its disgracefully heavy. I was shocked the first time I did it, shocked at how you could engineer something to be that weighty. The back wheel and tire on my Ducati 1000ss even with a wider tire floats away in the wind by comparison.I did measure them and its something like a 7kg difference or something ridiculous. So the wheels would be the first place to start if you really are serious about a dynamic improvement. Ciao

Put your readers on, and look carefully for the small squirter hole up a bit on the rod. It uses the oil going to the big end of the rod. True dat, Should probably use them on the Daytona engine instead of the non squirter Carrillo's, it needs them more I think. Ciao