Lucky Phil

I would just use a blind bearing puller and failing that disassemble the bearing until all thats left is the outer race and then collapse that. I'm remembering the outer race on these is a formed sheet style and not a machined cage, is that right? If it's a machined outer ring I'd do the same then if I couldn't grab it with the puller I'd run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer race and it will fall out. Ciao

Interesting on both counts. Puig is still blaming Michelin and all the teams want the front ride height adjuster banned except for Ducati of course. This is pretty typical from teams that don't innovate much because they are caught behind the curve and are lacking a little in speed until they catch up. MotoGP is getting too much like F1 for my liking. Ciao

I think it's the common std 1x1 weave. I'll let you know in a few days time. Ciao

Headlight brackets are expensive even used. You can still get the top triple and brackets used but I'd estimate the cost the be around $400usd these days. Ciao

Good luck with the Covid Pete. Ciao

Loctite on the oil pump nut only, red. Ciao

The TPS output is non linier on the V11. The linier version of the same TPS has fixed mounting screw ferrules without slots. Ciao

Someone has spent some money on that bike. The carbon rocker covers are silly idea as the carbon resin isn't heat tolerant enough for the purpose. Note on the high res image of the l/h cylinder head over the exhaust port the carbon cover is starting to take on a Copper colour, that's the resin becoming heat affected. I had carbon heat shields on my race Ducati's headers and currently have carbon muffler end caps on my Titanium Akra system on the 1198. They eventually go brittle and fail. On race bike exhausts it's weight over practicality but road bike rocker covers, no. Add to that the difficulty in keeping aluminium ones sealed and it's a classic style over function scenario. Ciao

No docc their std airmail service hasn't been operating to here for probably a year due Covid. To the UK is still ok though and I think AU post to the states is still ok. Just no USPS from the states. Scud posted me a top triple clamp about 3 months ago via his work courier service on corporate rate and it was $75US if I recall. So around 100AU. Ciao

I had better pass esp considering there is still no USPS postage available and other methods are outrageously expensive. Ciao

I'd be interested in a seat cover but any I'd need to see some examples of the quality of their work. Any chance of some detailed images of the stuff they do? The side covers will need separate moulds for each side. Ciao

Well reading Joes email and what Peter mentioned it seemed to be the other way around. I'm not familiar with the round engines crankcases docc. BTW the "sludge" issue is another overblow thing as well. Just because areas of the engine hide a bit of oil that eventually ends up black is of no immediate concern. If you can wipe away the oil with your finger and see the crankcase metal this isn't sludge. Sludge is stuff you need to scrape off with mechanical means. It may eventually get there one day if you're slack with your oil changes but black stained oil isn't sludge. I've seen a bit of this sludge silliness on youtube lately by supposed experts. Ciao

Ok docc. I think for steel gears and this is an overkill personally and probably even alloy gears. Daytona alloy gears shit as they are dont exactly wear out at the drop of a hat. The other thing to bear in mind is oil levels that high promote a lot of "churning" of the oil and frothing and heating AND drag. It's one of those things from a backyard mechanics perspective seems a good idea but in engineering terms probably doesn't hold up. The oil pump drive gear will distribute more than enough oil to the other gears for lubrication. You can have too much oil around the gears. Think about your gearbox gears. They dont have the gearbox half full of oil do they because it's counter productive and not needed. Pratt and Whitney experimented with a "geared fan" on their jet engines years ago, so it had a reduction gear assy to drive the fan on the front of the engine. They had big issues with overheating oil and gear failure as the gears were half submerged in oil. All this churning did was overheat the oil. The cure? get ride of the gears swimming in oil and provide a limited amount of oil directed to the gear faces where it's needed. It's a bit like oil pressure requirements. You only need sufficient pressure and any more is not only a waste of power but also has other compromises you don't need. Ciao

Any excess will just overflow into the sump docc. Ciao

Here's an image docc of the timing chest. Note the lower drain back hole on the left of the image and the other 2 vent holes. Note in the second image the oil pump gear is below the oil level and picks up oil and distributes the oil to the crankshaft gear and also the cam gear along with "Vent" lubrication.

What were Joes concerns?. I looked at this gave it some serious thought. Remember the Daytona engines use the wide sump with gear drive and the same crankcase drain system as the 2 valve engine. The V11's retain some oil in the bottom of the front timing chest area due to the location of the drain holes some way up the front wall. It's no big issue though as there is a lot of oil flowing into this area from the front camshaft bearing overflow, the front main bearing and the oil from the oil pump bearing. This oil simply raises the level until it overflows into the drain holes and the oil pump gear is low in the timing chest stirring up the oil there. I didn't see any great issues with sludge in my engine after 42,000klms. This is why I recommend after after the gears and front cover are installed that 300ml or so of oil is poured into the front timing chest vial the ignition sensor hole to provide some gear lube until the bearing overflow fills the area. I also give all the gear faces a very light coat of grease on all the teeth with a brush. Ciao

Ok thanks. I'm just updating my forks with later units now and was interested in what other models would fit with minimum modifications. The Guzzi V11 forks are a bit unique in that they are quite long and have different guard mounts and the triple clamps are also around 15mm wider than most bikes which makes substituting different forks while maintaining the V11 style front guard more challenging. A V11 front wheel hub is also around 10-15mm wider than most bikes which makes a front wheel swap using the original forks more difficult as well without spacing the callipers or using different offset disks. Ciao

Ok sure, my issue was mostly resolved by warming up my wrist or tendons I guess. Same as when I visit my dentist I do some jaw exercises so I can more easily spend time with my mouth wide open. Cable or Hydraulic clutches are fine with me but I'm often amused by people going to massive trouble to do hydraulic clutch conversions to make the clutch "lighter" when they could more easily just extend the clutch pushrod arm on the gearbox. Hydraulic leverage ratio is exactly the same as mechanical leverage ratio with only the friction drag of the cable the difference. Modern high quality clutch cables are pretty low friction these days. Maybe even no more than the drag of clutch master and slave cylinder seals and fluid friction through the lines. Ciao

Out of interest what details can you provide about the Mille forks and what was necessary to fit them to the V11. PM if you like or post. Ciao

I don't have a particular issue with my left wrist but when I started to do track days years ago after maybe 4 20min sessions my left wrist used to start seizing up. Not using the clutch for the upshifts relieve it of half the work to do and solved that issue. I would suggest anyone with your sort of issue either buy a high quality quick shifter for the road of when they are looking at a new bike look for one with factory fitted quick shifter, one that preferably works on up and down shifts. Squeezing a squash ball befor track days started would also help with the left wrist issues and is also worth doing while you have breakfast before a ride just to warm up you wrist. It helps. Ciao

I've got a colour matched one on my bike. Not a terrible deal for a carbon one with the mounts. Ciao

My favourite Groove Amada song Ciao

My previous experience owning 3 Triumphs and multiple Ducati's 2 of which I still own the Ducati's are much better quality. I was so appalled at Triumph quality and engineering I vowed to never buy another one. Ciao

The rear shock action just adds to the force of a high side, even with ridged rear suspension a high side would still happen. The only way to control one is to back out of the throttle well before it gets away on you or use the throttle to keep the slide going and either let it lowside OR use power to maintain the slide and ride it out so to speak. Thats a High side ON the gas. MM suffered the more difficult to deal with OFF throttle high side and the only way out of that is to get hard on the gas and ride it out which in the real world would be pretty much impossible. Once it lets go in that scenario you don't have the reaction necessary to get on the throttle and modulate it to ride it out and save it. See how speedway riders ride and what happens the moment they shut the throttle. The bike either straightens up and heads for the fence or high sides them. The process is the same. It's the mental barrier you need to cross to be a speedway rider. The more you're running wide and the fence is coming at you fast the bigger handful of throttle you need to correct the situation. Ciao