Lucky Phil

Yes. Tank differences. Just realised if you click the arrow in the top r/h corner it takes you to the actual linked page. Sorry I'm dumb. Ciao

Yes Chuck would be interested to know what the rear view is. Ciao

Yes Chuck, I only upgraded to a pair of Mitutoyo digital calipers about 3 or 4 years ago and the battery is still going strong. Incredible really since it doesnt have an "auto off" capability which I'd really appreciate. As an aside my ex bought a cheapy brand small pocket digital camera around 15 years ago that used 2 AAA batteries. The batteries would take about 15 images and they were done! Ciao

Nobody mentioned the mirrors yet:) Ciao

Hate to say it Chuck but probably a good move. Stay safe everyone. Ciao

The Greenie looks good with those Ti pipes. Nice tool board as well. Your workshop has a lined ceiling like mine. I miss the exposed beams when it comes to hanging and supporting stuff. Ciao

Cause they are now:) These bikes belong in the " because it's different it must be cool" demographic. I've never completely understood the "be different at any cost" philosophy. Modern choppers which are basically pretty much unrideable in the context of what is considered good dynamic performance are the obvious example. These type of bikes are a step up from those and born out of the strip it down and call it cheap coolness movement of 10 years ago. Just proves you cant fake style. Ciao

This generally makes it a bit easier as the hose is more compact. I also use Cobra clips which are really good and very compact. You release them easily with a jewellers screwdriver and can reuse them. You dont need the "special tool" although it helps. I made a "Special tool" for the cobra clips out of an old worn out pair of combination pliers on the bench grinder. Their advantage is they are super neat and compact and give the connection a clean look. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-hosekit.htm Norma Cobra Clip Ciao

Great video of a tricky job. Ciao

Yes, don't use Guzzidiag for setting the TPS, it isn't accurate enough for TPS setting, use a Multimeter. Follow the usual throttle linkage disconnect and throttle plate fully closed and held there to set the TPS. Ciao

That there is an illness Ciao

If you mean washer #32 no it's not that straight forward. Ciao

I've never found that to be the case. My cars have had 3M clear bras fitted to them for years and never had fade lines when removed. The very early 3M clear adhesive used to yellow a little over time but the later ones dont. On top of that the 3M if you use it is "self healing" when it gets scuffed up if you leave it in the sun it will self repair or you can use a heat gun on it and watch the damage fade away. Quite brilliant technology and cheap for the quantities you need on a bike. This is why people with high end sports cars Ferraris etc get them completely clear bra'd before they even drive them off the show room floor. Ciao

Did someone say 1984. Ciao

So I've been working on the mapping for the EFI lately trying to solve a starting issue. The original map worked nicely when the engine had warmed up but it was a bitch to start. I thought the starting was down to setting up the TPS,balance, idle, and CO but turned out not to be the case. I was able to source another 3 Centi maps and 1 USA spec Daytona RS map which is basically a Centi map with higher rpm limit. Two of the maps from Karsten in Germany were both enhanced maps and the other Centi map and Daytona map was standard very kindly sent to me from Will Creedon in the US. These maps were a tremendous help in sorting the starting issue. The original map had the Centi, Main fuel, offset and ignition maps transferred over to the 15M .bin but the engine temp trim map and start enrichment map left as std V11. Looking at the Centi engine temp trim map it is wildly different from a V11. As an example this is the Difference in percentages between the Centi map and std V11 map for the same engine temperatures. I was starting the engine at around 10 deg C and as you can see the DIFFERENCE at that temp 25% richer for the Centi. This helped the starting a lot and the warmup was quite good.It stumbled a bit when the engine got to around 40 deg and required a little throttle monitoring for about 20 second or so and it rode nicely. To prevent the afore mentioned warmup stumble which was pretty minor I went back in and added some fuel in the 40-65 deg region. Because the Centi and V11 used different temp steps I left the std V11 temp steps and arrived at the new fuel values simply by interpolating them from the Centi map. The bike now warmed up really nicely. Once started the engine settled into a nice 1100 rpm indicated idle and was very nice. Initial hit of the button still needed more work though as i wasn't happy with that so I once again took a look at the start enrichment map. Both The Centi and V11 start enrichment maps looked pretty much identical except for the initial 16 seconds of cranking where the Centi is once again significantly different. Below you can see in the extreme RH column where I added fuel for the initial 16 seconds of the start. This is the DELTA map. The next thing was ignition advance. the first map had used the std Centi/Daytona ignition timing and that was a lot different from both the Karsten maps. The std was 6 deg of advance at 1000rpm which is what the engine will get at cranking speed but the Karsten map was 21 deg and at the next rpm break point dropped to 12 deg. I decided to up the advance to 16 on the cranking and the engine seemed to like this and the starting was now quite good. Better than I was accustomed to with the V11. Interestingly I have since noticed an 8 valve Grisso uses 21 deg of advance on cranking. The V11 uses 15 deg at cranking. Why the Centi only uses 6 deg I dont know but it seems to like more when cold. As is often the case when doing this kind of thing you can lose yourself a little with various adjustments so I may revisit the timing and see if it had the effect I thought it did or I got a little lost with the fuel mapping and the original timing was was ok. The problem with sorting an initial first cranking starting issue is that when the engine doesn't fire up on the first or second cranking attempt then it's hard to understand what the symptoms really are. When the engine is stone cold there is a lot of puddling of fuel in the manifolds and it needs to be very rich to accommodate this. The issue is if it doesn't fire up you end up with too much fuel in the manifold and that becomes an issue. The initial fire up is critical and if it doesn't happen fairly quickly you then don't know reliably what the affect your changes have made except they didn't work. You need to get it started and cleared out and fully warmed up and let it cool down again and try something else. takes a while and can get you a little lost. You are also dealing with 2 different XDF programs for the 16M and 15M which present data in different ways so some transferring maps to excel to compare was necessary. There's probably an easier way to do this in Tunerpro but being a computer Luddite makes it a longer process for me. Once again thanks to, Will, audiomick, and Karsten for the Maps and advice. Ciao EDIT.....forgot to mention I put a 50 klm country ride on the bike yesterday and it went very well. Rode and carburatted very nicely indeed.

I use one of (probably these) Chinese sensors on my Daytona engine. I bought 2 for $30. I only bought 2 because of the postage and it looks decent seems to be going ok after 52klm of riding:) Bit cheaper than the $170 being quoted for a genuine one. Just about everyone is selling these and the 2 pin straight type for around $30-40 so I wouls assume if they were junk there'd be turn of the century bikes and cars stopped all over the place on the side of the road:) Ciao

All paint will fade to a certain extent in our conditions. Over the years I've seen many bikes with the telltale signs of a different shaped tank pad replacement. It's not a massive thing you notice from 20 feet away but if you're the type of person where you like to keep your paint nice and you're concerned enough to use a protector then I'd go for clear. Even if you by one and a spare getting the replacement on in exactly the same spot can be next to impossible. On the racetrack I use my knees for support when braking on the limit but not on the road. The V11 tank is the complete wrong shape for me to grip with my long legs. Ciao

A CV joint is a much more sophisticated device than a simple uni joint. Ciao

Yep that also. See my fuel tap mod thread. Ciao

Yes it's a problem that kind of fairing with regards to mirrors. I think I prefer fairing mounted ones but they need to be the "right ones" Ciao

I can say for sure the r/h sensor in the first image is for the airbox ambient temp sensor. Ciao

Its easier to fit the manifolds to the throttle bodies and then bolt the whole lot to the heads. Ciao

The fuel tap appears to be black/yellow and black. The tap is wired to the F8 fuse so if you have a meter you can trace it back to there. Ciao

Yes docc will chime in with the parts required, he's not long done his. Ciao

Thats a lot of grief to process. Keep going, better times ahead. Ciao