Lucky Phil

The latest version. Normally comes with the female blade connector to use on the wire. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=2387 Ciao

The bike runs and idles fine but I suspect the slight popping on the overrun which seems to come from the right side is due to the air leaking past the shaft. Greater vacuum and airflow due to 3000 rpm with idle fuel values equals lean mixture on the overrun. I've dialled it out with the CO trim although I could also do it on the main fuel map on the closed throttle value at 2-3500 rpm where you notice it. The most noticeable thing though is the tapping sound at idle, sounds like tappet noise but its the throttle valve moving. The other thing is it affects the initial throttle response as the left valve moves it needs to overcome the wear in the r/h t/b shaft so you can never get it to carburate perfectly off idle. The left opens fractionally before the right. None of this is terrible but I can feel it and hear it. Loctite red is high strength and requires heat for hand tool removal. Green thread locker is medium to high and for use on already assembled parts,ie it's a wicking compound. Green is also the colour of bearing mount loctite. Personally the only place i can see a need for red Loctite on the throttle bodies is the throttle plate attachment screws the rest only need Blue. Manufacturers are more concerned about averting risk than future maintenance so if they can liquid weld the things together thats the way they'll go. Minimise their risk and maximise your future maintenance headaches. Ciao

If you're doing the timing cover gasket( front engine cover gasket?) you now use the metal gasket with the pressure sensitive sealant also sold by MG cycles for the later big block engines. Totally bullet proof and the same as Ducati twins have been using for years on their valve cover gaskets and head gaskets. I havent used one of those horrid old composite gaskets that blow out on a front engine cover for years. Ciao

Yes I tried the heat gun method to no avail. When I pulled the injectors during the Daytona build with the T/B's on the bench the retaining screws were a pain and I sheared the head off one and was lucky to be able to get the remaining piece out. It took a lot more heat than a heat gun though. My r'h throttle body shaft bushes are badly worn and require replacement. I assessed them years ago and should have revisited the wear issue before I fitted them. I've scoped out the bushes and seals by stripping down an old spare set of Ducati bodies and am awaiting another set of throttle bodies from Paul to arrive. I'll then decide on which set to use, I may need to rebuild both sets, dont know. When the new set show up I'was going the experiment with how much heat was going to be needed to get the support screws to loosen. At the end of the day I'll do a tutorial on how to replace the bushes. What Snapon assistance was the key? just a better fitting allen key? Ciao

How did you get the screws out for the aluminium cross piece? Mine are going to strip the heads out if I use any more force and i'm assuming they have used red loctite on them as usual and I'll need a lot of heat for them to release. Ciao

There could well be a lot of air trapped at the top hose connection to the master cylinder. Unbolt the master and carefully with the cap off tilt it so the reservoir is higher than the banjo connection and jiggle the lever. By jiggle the lever I mean just that, dont attempt to actuate the lever just jiggle it in it's play region. You will see air bubbles come into the reservoir. You can also while you have it in this position tap the accessible clutch line with the handle of a screwdriver to break free any air bubbles. They will come into the reservoir once again. Ciao

Yes, I've covered it already, years ago.Peter is right,he put me onto them. Ciao

How did you get the throttle bodies off? Did they come off in one piece or did you separate them off the supports? Ciao

Not sure. Ciao

Ok thanks for the clarification. I wasn't totally confident the T/B's were 45mm so I qualified it with a "think". I was going to measure them. They are smaller than the Daytona ones so they must be 45mm. Why the quoted performance difference when the Sport has 1 point higher compression? Not sure may just be the vagueries of Italian factory literature or a conversion issue. Ciao

My brains hurting now Ciao

The 1100 used 40mm Dellorto's and the V11 uses I think 45mm throttle bodies. The 1100 I should be the same output as the V11 with the same throttle bodies but the manual rates it the same as the 1100 carbed. Ciao

Same except for the compression ratio 9.3 for the V11 and 10.5 for the 1100 sport although the V11 has 67 kw V's the 1100 Sport with 66 kw. Cam is the same as is the valve size and bore and stroke. The V11 has EFI and the Sport 1100 had carbs. 1100 Sport-i had injection. Ciao

Your preaching to the converted here. I think this has been done to death and answered here and in previous threads. Ciao

I bought two about a year ago from China at $15US each. Seems to work fine on the Daytona engine and the quality looked good. Ciao

I've got to write all this relay troubleshooting down on a plasticised card and carry it on the bike. Ciao

To set the sensor gap you clean the end of the sensor to remove any oil and apply a thin( say 1mm thick) piece of Plasticine over the entire surface then apply some grease to the surface of the Plasticine and with the original shims fitted insert the sensor and push it into place as hard as you can. Remove the sensor and remove the indented Plasticine with a thin blade and measure the thickness with a pair of vernier calipers. Adjust the shims as required leaning towards the larger end of the tolerance. Even if the little piece of Plasticine falls off it wont do any harm in the engine but if done correctly it doesnt fall off. Ciao

Maybe I can have a look inside with my Boroscope if I get the time. Ciao

Well I rode the Daytona/V11 around with the with the inlet manifold vacuum balancing adaptors uncovered and it ran fine. I forgot to install the blanking caps and didn't realise until I got back home. (it was just a few laps around the block) did't even notice. Ciao

Could't disagree more as a general principle. Man didn't succeed in his greatest human endeavour of landing on the moon and returning safely by shunning technology and progress. The modern motorcycle is in every way a far better piece of machinery than it was even 20 years ago. About the only thing you could question is the requirement to be a bit more technically savvy to be able to maintain them. They dont really accommodate back yard mechanics anymore. But then that's balanced out by the fact that they require far less maintenance today. Ciao

This I actually really like. Pity it needs a custom chassis to work. Ciao

I actually like the aesthetics of these on a Greenie with the caveat of the paint implications of course. Breaks up the expanse of green somewhat. My issue is from a practical point is that at 6'2" in the old money with long legs my inner thighs and knees simply dont fit in the cut outs anyway. Ciao

FWIW I'm a computer ludite with a windows 10 laptop and Guzzidiag has worked perfectly for me every time. True docc the TPS on diag isn't accurate enough for setting the baseline. Ciao

Back in the day before Ohlins made OEM forks for manufacturers the ones that came on the up spec Ducati's like 851 SP2's etc were the real deal GP forks.I had them on my 888 and they static leaked all the time. No slider damage it was what Ohlins seals used to do back then. We used to replace them with Honda Goldwing seals and they never leaked after that. In this case Chuck is right,look for slider damage and carefully remove if present. Ciao

I meant the jacket! Ciao