Lucky Phil

There're like those front mounted fender mirrors on cars from the 60's. Look like Micky Mouse ears on a bike.So many high quality unobtrusive standard mount mirrors available now there's no excuse for them. Ciao

eeek.......bar end mirror:) Ciao

Not Distributor wrenches? Ciao

Engine mounts? Ciao

Radial engine cylinder studs? Ciao

Yes I thinks so as well. Ciao

Yes docc my advice was what I "suspected" depending on whether or not the bearing when fitted was tight to turn with a std clearance which would indicated too much interference on the fit. If that was the case i'd go for a C3, but all things being equal with proper housing to bearing interference std bearings are the way to go. A C3 wont hurt it's just not required unless there is an issue as mentioned. The spacer dimension is critical on the front as well but if the bearings are doing 50,000 or more miles then it's probably not an issue. If bearings are failing early then the clearance and spacer dimensions need looking at. My rear wheel bearings are tighter than ideal when fitted and I suspect they may need C3's on the next replacement depending on mileage. Ciao

What is this Cheese? Ciao

Well, probably not docc, C3's are generally harder to get and often special order, here at least mostly. How may miles on the failed bearings? Always wise the measure the spacer length if the bearings aren't lasting as long as they should. Ciao

Problem is you cant buy the mod kit anymore. I'm not even sure if you can buy the individual components for the shock damper and it needs a special tool to disassemble. If you can buy the "coupling hose" parts and the drive sleeves they are expensive. At least from TLM they are as I see them advertised on ebay from time to time. Ciao

I have the Stucchi crossover and the same muffers in Stainless steel and it all goes together nicely. Pull the headers and fit new crush gaskets and assemble the whole system and align it and then torque up the fasteners. Ciao

No need for C3 bearings with additional clearance docc. These are only generally used for high speed or conditions that generate higher bearing temps. Wheel bearings dont fit that criterior. Ciao

If you look on the German forum for these things everyone seems to run 10W-60. The xxW number should always be as low as possible for a full synthetic oil. By that I mean a true group 4 oil. The only reason for a 20W-xx oil was in the days of mineral based oils which sheared down relatively quickly and the base 20W oil was insurance for those that didn't do oil changes. Full synthetics dont break down like that so a heavy base oil isn't necessary. For those that think a 0W-40 as an example is too thin have a think about this. At engine operating temperature say 90-100 deg C where the engine is designed to produce peak torque, in other words to be at maximum load the 0W-40 oil is around 1/3 the of viscosity that it is at room temperature. So the argument that its too thin doesn't stack up. It's still more viscous when cold than at operating temp and at operating temp its a 40 weight oil. I would run a -10W-40 full synthetic if they made such an oil. I've run my V11 on Mobil1 0W-40 for ten years with no seal leakage, no oil at all in the airbox, no oiling issues at all period. It also has adequate ZDDP levels of 1000ppm for flat tappet engines. You want to be aiming at ZDDP levels of 1000-1400ppm. More isn't necessarily better. For the Daytona I'm inclined to go heavier say a 10W-50 or 60 full synthetic only because they tend to run hot in traffic and could use the extra viscosity at idle to maintain oil pressure. A std Daytona/Centauro engine doesn't really in the real world put any more load on the critical load carrying components such as main and rod bearings than a 2 valve engine either. The power outputs of both are within reason pretty much the same So from my first hand experience and a little basic knowledge about oil I'd say for any of the old generation big block engines the choice would be a full group 4 synthetic in the 0W-40, 10/15W-50 or the 10W-60 depending on the ambient temps you ride in and traffic conditions. For the later 8 valve engines i'd go with the recommended 10W-60. Ciao

The frame extension is from the breather banjo fitting fwd by the looks which ties in exactly with my tank measurement differences and the fact the 2 different engine front frame supports mount to either the short or long main frames. Ciao

Its a device to spike through wool bales to provide a lifting loop for loading and moving about. Ciao

Yes John, great book. Another good RR one is "Not Much of an engineer" by Stanley Hooker. Ciao

Don't even think about doing them red. Ciao

Here's the recall.Due to the nature of the consequences if they are not done I would assume the local distributor would have been fairly proactive in chasing up all the affected bikes. http://www.motoguzzi.no/sa.htm Ciao

If you need to remove the tap docc I suggest removing the tank fitting and then separating the tap from the fitting in the vise. Maybe Chuck could mod a few for people at a reasonable cost. He's got the equipment to do a superior job to me and he'd do one in under an hour easy. Ciao

Often the way. Totally real world unrideable of course. Ciao

Well I've finally put this one to bed. Due to available sizes for Viton/FKM seals I eventually had to machine down the oring grooves on the piston to 10.2mm od from the std 10.5 and widen the grooves as well to take a slightly wider 2.4 mm seal from the std 10x2.0mm. Someone at home with a pedestal drill may be able to do this with a small file and some care. So as shown in the previous image I have slotted the piston and drilled the housing to accept a 4mm grub screw that is now the open stop. I've modified the piston oring grooves as previously outlined and used Viton/FKM seals of 9.8 x 2.4 mm which dont swell in fuel. Put it all together with blue loctite on the grub screw to lock and seal it and you have a tap that doesn't leak and works smoothly and very nicely. The whole issue is the original Nitrile seals swell in fuel and cause jamming of the piston/plunger. Nitrile seal swelling in fuel isnt an issue between 2 fixed immovable surfaces where it can actually assist sealing but in this situation it's horrible. My main concern is wrenching on the tap when trying to shut it off which is being transmitted through plastic mounted tank integral threaded inserts. Wreck one of these and the tank is scrap. So as usual the OEM has literally skimped pennies on the seals and made the tap in some cases useless.Nice design but looks like the accountants got involved. Ciao

I've done a search of those decal markings docc but cant align anything. Having said that my bike also has the original ecu reflashed somewhere between its manufacture and late 2010 maybe the decal is for that. cars usually have a decal applied after a recall. My bike had the transmission recall done but didnt need the rods. BTW I read the workscope and parts list for the recalls and they actually required the whole rod and bolts to be replaced. I thought it was just the rod bolts,but no rods as well. Ciao

Assuming it's within the VIN range for a recall, I'm not 100% sure. The ecu on my bike had a paper sticker over the original with KR-V11 Sport 9F printed on it. I "suspect" this may be an indication the recall was done although nothing on that sticker seems to relate. Ciao

You could probably Knock them down a bit on that, you know,hammer out a deal. Ciao