moto fugazzi

Haha, I don;t know what the "typos" were, but you can't get away with much with these smart lads. I'm hanging on Step#5: "Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to increasing restored capacity. " After the first discharge/recharge cycle, the weak battery light went off on the charger. I did another cycle today, and we'll see what the volts are tomorrow night after I take the charger off in the morning and let it rest. With an HID headlight and LED fog lights, it takes quite a while to drain the battery to under 10V like Odyssey wants you do do before the recharge cycle. Ken

I fixed the above issues...not sure how that happened with copy and paste

I took my Ohlins forks to my local Ducati dealer for new fork seals. They charged me for 1 hour of labor plus parts, and I had them back within a few hours the same day. Bringing them in the off season also helped speed up the process. If you have the time and ability, by all means build your own tool and fix them yourself. I do not have the time, but possibly the ability. Ken

Damn, I just found this thread, and I'm completely overwhelmed! Very cool of you guys to figure this out and build some springs! What happens from here if they work out perfectly in the real world for testing? Will Chuck build more, or will you place an order with a spring company? Either way, I'll gladly pay a good amount for one of these springs for my bike! Ken

Thanks again everyone! I'm in the process of doing this according to Odyssey. I discharged the battery tonight and am charging it (It was at 12.6V after being on the expensive Batteryminder charger, which also indicated the Odyssey battery was weak). I'll most likely discharge and charge the battery at least one more time to see if I can save it. The battery is only 3 years old, but I probably did more harm than good using the Battery Tender trickle charge on this over the years. http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf ODYSSEY® Battery Reconditioning Charge Procedure Scope: Lead-acid batteries can develop reduced delivered capacity / performance after prolonged periods of storage, especially if the batteries were not periodically boost charged or left on a float / maintenance charger during the time of storage. The cause of this reduced capacity is the development of sulfation of some of the oxide on the plates. Sulfated oxide is discharged oxide and can be challenging to covert back to charged oxide known as lead-dioxide. Left unconverted, this discharged lead sulfate can develop even more hardened sulfate and could be non-reversible. Action Procedure: To hopefully reestablish full deliverable capacity, the following procedure is offered as a “reconditioning charge cycle procedure.” Discharge the battery using the vehicle headlights or connecting some electrical load to the battery and discharge to 10.0V under load measured with a hand-held digital volt meter. Once 10.0V is achieved, disconnect the electrical load or turn off the headlights or other electrical system or device. Begin recharging with an approved charger as listed at www.odysseybattery.com and with appropriate amperage for the capacity of the battery, minimum 40% amperage of the 10 hour capacity rating of the battery. Utilizing chargers that achieve 14.7V during charge and 13.6V in float are ideal. Monitor the batteries terminal voltage with the charger operating to assure 15.0V is not exceeded at any time. Charge the battery until the charging amperage seems to be near zero amps and if the charger has a 13.6V float, float charge for 8-10 hours. If the battery gets hot to the touch(exceeds1250F),stopchargingandallowto cool. Once cool, begin charging again until charge complete. Charging times can be 6-10 hours depending on the charger amperage rating to the amp-hour rating of the battery. As an example, a 10 amp charger on an ODYSSEY PC925 would take approximately 7-8 hours to fully recharge. Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to increasing restored capacity.

If you're asking me, I didn't discharge my battery. It was at 12.4V when I connected the Batteryminder. Ken

A little reading on the internet shows that AGM batteries can be desulfated. We'll see what happens over the next few days on the BatterMINDer. I have all winter to monitor the battery, so I can always try docc's method. Ken

It's approved by Enersys, and it also has a setting for Odyssey batteries (which I selected). It automatically went into desulfation mode after the charge period. The manual said it may take up to 2 weeks to desulfate a neglected battery. Ken

Thanks for all of the info here! My Odyssey isn't holding a charge well, and I never properly conditioned it before or during use. It's about 3 years old now, and instead of getting a new battery, I decided to get the Battery Minder 1128 CEC1 and give it a go. So far, it's spent a whole day in desulfate mode, and the indicator on the Battery Minder says that the battery is weak. I'll let the desulfate mode complete and see if that changes anything. I'll report back when it's finished. Ken

Scud bought 10? Either he's hoarding all of the V11's for sale, or he's installing all of them in on one bike! I installed mine a few years ago, and it works as advertised. Buy one before Scud buys the other 7, you won't regret it! Ken

My 2001 and 2004 didn't have the check valve. I talked to the original owners, and they say they never removed it. My local dealer in northern IL said the check valve isn't really needed unless you do many short rides that don't fully heat up the engine. Ken

IIRC, Pete recommended it on a leaky seal that I had, and I've been using it ever since. I also use it instead of loktite on small bolts that I don't want to vibrate loose. Ken

I think I have some extra spacer material (I think 3-4", and it will have to be cut to size) that I got from JRT on this forum when I bought his old 2001 Sport. It'll take me a few days to find it, but if anybody needs it, let me know. I found some info here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5537&hl=%20bearing%20%20spacer&page=4 Ken

I've been using Meinolf's map since Aug. 2015 with great success. It might be time for his newest version. Thanks again! Ken

I didn't notice this sooner, but I didn't know you could use the rear wheel stand this way...I've always used it on the opposite side. Is it harder or easier to use this way? Ken

Pyro Dan from the WI MG chapter sells a good affordable relay. No issues in the last 4 years with his. http://www.dpguzzi.com Ken

SOLD Selling the Tekno side bags and rear luggage mount (for top case) that was on my 2001 V11S, then on my newer 2004 V11CS. In very good condition, and starting to fade. I did coat them with UV protecting spray this summer.

email just sent to you...Sorry, I was out of town this last week. Ken (11moto11)

How did you bend the slide hammer shaft, Hercules? Let us know your trick of installing the new bearings. Ken

Ok, Ken you're on the list.. that villa in Italy is getting closer by the minute. Glad to help. I'll keep an eye on the Villa for you when you're not there. You'll just have to send the plane tickets to me!

If they're $50-60, I'll add a 2nd to my order as a spare. I don't plan on getting another V11, but you never know... Ken

That video was amazing, it put a big smile on my face! Ken

I'll take one, and I'm sending an email as well. Ken

I'm way late to this party! If you make more, I'll gladly buy one. Ken

Which version do you use then? The motorcycle or standard? I have a local race shop that stock all redline products. Ken A few years ago, my dealer installed Agip 10w60 in my V11 Sport. I've been using that since, because my V7C takes that oil, and I just buy it by the case. No need to stock 2 different kinds of oil. Ken