Scud

I'm stoked to see your planes... and your shop... and your enthusiasm... Best line: "It's going to be our flying camper." I installed the arm on my LeMans today. Don't mind the file in the picture. You machined it perfectly, but I had to remove some powder-coat to get it to fit over the bushing. By the way, that's Harper's aftermarket shift lever. The shifts seem to take less effort and feel more precise. Will be getting the other onto the Scura soon.

OEM Part Name: Roller - for gearshift selector lever Moto Guzzi Part Number: 04234700 Replacement Part Brand: Dynaroll Part number 688HZZ A5 Differences from OEM (if any): This is a bearing, the OEM part is a solid piece. Other Comments: Craig found these and sent one to me. I just installed and it works. Thanks. Bearing dimensions: 8mm x 16mm x 5mm Link to further discussion: If you're replacing this part, you probably should also read this thread about shift-improvement: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547&hl=

OEM Part Name: Swingarm Bearings Moto Guzzi Part Number: 92218418 Replacement Part Brand or Source: SKF Part number or other identifier: 3303 A-2RS1TN9/MT33 Link to further discussion or tips: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18327&page=7

I thought you were retired.

If I had to guess, I'd say they were 8mm or 10mm. The sizes are based on the threads, not the size of wrench or socket required. 50 lb/ft is almost 70 n/m. So yeah, they're "good and tight." In fact, even if they're 10mm they're quite a bit tighter the 45-50 n/m specified. But on to the fun stuff - how's the new spring treating you?

On the topic of "Spine Frames don't crash well" I sent the transmission off to Bjorn, without cleaning it. The bad news: He and his mechanic discovered that one of the castings had cracked. Apparently some force of the impact transferred through the spine to the transmission mount, where the case cracked. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1725 The good news: We were able to reconcile it and he was able to assemble one good transmission from his failed unit (bearing) and the one from this bike. This is partly a heads-up. Look carefully if you are thinking of buying anything from a crashed bike. Now I need to inspect the engine block castings very closely...

Those torque values aren't specified. Use the standard torques for the size. See the bottom of the attached spec sheet. I don't recall the size of the bolts.

Yeah - I got the T-shirt too. I was with my two youngest daughters. We just got out of the ocean from surfing and all these vintage bikes were going by. Even the support, ride-along, bikes were cool - old BMWs and Harleys mostly. Saw a couple new Moto Guzzi Norges that I think might have been support riders. And then all the trucks and trailers ready to pick up the finishers - and that beautifully restored Excelsior that had a mangled front-end.

Sizes: Who knows? Pull 'em off and take them into a parts store or your local dealer. Hose between throttle bodies: if the vapor canister is gone, you can simply put vaccum caps on the ports. You do not need to run a line between the throttle bodies.

I stumbled into something I would have planned my day around, had I been aware of it. The Cannonball finished today in Carlsbad, my home town. For this 100th anniversary run, all the bikes had to be made in 1916 or earlier. They finished their 3,000 mile cross country journey today. Here are pics in a slideshow: http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/slideshow/Cannonball%202016%20Carlsbad And here's some more info about the event: http://www.motorcyclecannonball.com/theroute I saw a bunch of them riding North on Pacific Coast Highway today. It was really cool to seem them on the move, instead of in museums or shows. Realizing that they were on the final leg of a cross-country adventure... even better.

Cool, glad to see it confirmed. Footgoose and I had several long conversations with them about it (re his Tenni and my Scura). My 6-speed kit was on backorder for over a year. In retrospect, I could have ordered a 5-speed at anytime. At least I got 12,000 miles out of the OEM clutch and flywheel - I figured that would be well within the early failure limit.

That looks brand new. And no picture can capture the amazing red paint on those red/grey 2002s. You have to see it in sunlight to believe it.

Engine side: off with current flywheel and twin plate clutch. Mount 5-speed RAM flywheel and clutch (pre-assembled) to crankshaft. Tranny side: remove input hub (gear). Install special, RAM-compatible input hub (the only thing that make's it a 6-speed kit). The interesting opportunity here... I bet many RM, Tenni, and Scura owners have saved their original input hubs, because they needed to be removed to do the twin-plate conversion. So... if you were inclined to give your 100,000 mile sport some special treatment as a reward for all the pleasure she's given you... you could probably help her "slip into something more comfortable" if you can locate an input hub.

Phil - we posted at the same time. I think the pushrods are the same. I have one from my parts bike (02 LeMans dual plate) ready to compare to my Scura (OEM single plate) as soon as I get motivated to take the engine out.

That's good to hear. We've been speculating about this - and when I last talked with the guys there they said it might work... they must have given it a closer look to be able to recommend it now. Here's a thread for your enjoyment... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510&hl= Here's what I believe: The difference between the 5-speed kit and the 6-speed kit was only the input hub for the transmission. The RAM-compatible 6-speed hub are no longer available, hence they cannot sell a kit to convert from OEM to RAM. However, since you already have the correct hub in your RM, you can use the 5-speed kit with your 6-speed hub. This should be an easy install. I think you should test it out for us and document it. You and we'll

Here's one with a detailed parts list and some other links within the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18068 Here's a well-documented story with some pictures: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17074&page=1 If you search for "single plate clutch" or "scura clutch" you'll get several more. There were more Scuras than RMs or Tennis - so the problems most frequently appear on the Scuras.

Looking good Roy. I thought I was making a donation in $US, but it converted to Canadian. I'm not going to make the event this year. Last year was good though. Los Angeles had a lot of bikes. Worthwhile cause - and a fun way to support it.

The Guzzi bug is gonna bite you HARD.

Where's that :hurl: emoticon? I've had two Beemers, too.. but I'm a slow learner. The two valve Guzzi (pick one) is head and shoulders above them, JUST MY HONEST OPINION. No offence intended to those poor deluded souls that actually like them. Guzzis routinely go over 100K miles without even doing a valve job.. if properly maintained. I had an oil head when I first rode a Guzzi. Unloaded that sucker and have never looked back. Chuck, Deacon, Church of Guzzi I had an oilhead (1996 R1100RT) for a long time. It turned into an appliance, and I stopped riding for pleasure (just commuted). I also had an airhead (1981 R100CS) - that had more soul than the RT, but there's no way would I go back to it from my V11. (Although my little brick is quirky enough to be an interesting commuter/tourer/grocery-getter and a pleasant stable-mate). Scud, Congregant Church of Guzzi

I had a 1981 R100CS for a long time. You should find a way to get yourself a ride on a V11. To me, the V11 has everything I liked about that vintage airhead - and so much more. V11 valve adjustments are rocker-arms - you just need some tools and a feeler gauge. The Tenni is lovely, but has 1 potentially serious problem (which is shared with the Scura and Rosso Mandello) - it has a fragile flywheel that is coupled to a single-plate clutch. But it can be remedied by installing a standard dual-plate clutch and flywheel. Tennis are also quite rare (I think under 200 worldwide) - but if you wait a while you can probably find one with the clutch already updated. If you want a bit more windshield than the standard LeMans fairing offers, you can put a laminar lip on it. Here's a low-mile 2002 LeMans for sale. Fly and ride. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/5753347690.html

Don't let people scare you off. From what I can see, most Guzzis will "soldier on" for a very long time. Especially the 2V big blocks. Will you have to work on it more than a Honda? Probably. Will you enjoy working on it more than a Honda? Probably. Will it die in the middle of the desert? I doubt it. You've come to forum that's pretty focused on the V11 Sport and LeMans series by Moto Guzzi. The V11 LeMans fairing is between the 1200 Sport and Norge touring fairings. It provides ample protection at the speeds you mentioned. You could probably pick up a 2003 or 2004 LeMans for less than the Sport - and there are some special editions with Ohlins suspension. These later years seem to be the best-sorted from the factory. Instead of one of those new-fangled CARC bikes, can we interest you in a V11? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

As Stew implies, the first place to look is at the linkage. Make sure it is totally loose and free - the lever should have almost no friction. If you put the little screw and nut on the front of the linkage backwards, it will rub against the starter and make it feel like the shifter is jammed or that it is not returning the center (ready for next shift) position after shifting. If the clutch is dragging a little when you push the bike with the clutch lever in, take a look at the screw on the lever - the one that pushes into the master cylinder. If you turn that in a little, you might force more fluid into the slave - just enough to get it to release the rest of the way. If the linkage is all clear, then take another look inside the pre-selector, using this thread as a guide: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547 If you have the pre-selector off now, it's worth going through and cleaning up the contact surfaces as described in that thread. You'll notice an improvement in shifting action while it's on the bench.

Looking good - and it looks like some very nice roads up there too. May she give you many more perfect days like that.

...and the potatoes. And some gravy... and cornbread... don't forget the grilled zucchini.

By unearthed issues - do you mean that adding the part has caused or amplified an existing problem? Since upshifts are better, does this mean you are having trouble with downshifts? If so that sounds about like the current state of my LeMans. Now awaiting some parts and will get into the shifter once more. I think I'll install the extender first, just in the name of scientific experimentation and isolating variables.