Scud

I hadn't noticed the two item numbers - looks like one is the manufacturer's number and the other is the retailer's. So they are just two numbers that mean the same thing. Just put 5 in the shopping cart (or more if you want additional spares). Re valve clearances: I'm also going to set mine to .006"I and .008"E. I've seen enough reports of problems cured by these settings to convince me. Make sure the clearance doesn't change when you tighten the locking nut over the adjusting screw - it's easy to accidentally set the valves too tight if you don't hold the adjuster in place while tightening the locking nut. Black bikes.

Welcome. One thing I've learned from this forum is to trust the manual about 90%. The hard part is figuring out which 90% - but that's what this forum is good for. I have found it useful to follow the recommendations of members here who have put a lot of miles on their bikes and found improvements in performance AND reliability through some non-specified settings, procedures, modifications, or aftermarket parts. Docc recommends the OMRON 5-pin relays for all five positions. Why not just buy a set of 5 ($30) and carry your other new 5-pin relays as backups? That would take "intermittently failing relay" off the potential problems list, get you closer to a solution, and some peace of mind going forward (not wondering when the stock relays will fail). BTW, the icon sometimes means: I am old as dirt, have learned from many mistakes, and am trying to help you.

No, it doesn't matter at all. I was just noticing how the stepper-motor worked. If I didn't know about that I would have assumed that the meter was still measuring voltage with the key off and was draining power (albeit slowly). I like how you turned this into benefit - you must be a marketing guy. "Speedhut Gauges - now available with voltage memory!" I guess they will also have hot idle speed memory and oil pressure memory. So many extra features...

Right? And now that you have so many new friends, you'll need a fleet of V11 . . . one of each! Yeah - like what would I do if I Docc and Czakky came to visit at the same time? This is all play-time for me. The hard part is figuring out what to do or how to do it - most of which is well-documented on this site. So I'm trying to point out threads that I find useful, and add to the knowledge base if I figure out something new or different. But holy smokes, the Speedhut gauges are taking me a lot longer than I imagined. I'm pretty slow with electrical work (because I don't understand it well enough yet) - and trying to use the stock (unmodified) case for the tach and speedo has required more than one trip to the hardware store and some online ordering. Maybe I can get those "dialed in" this week. Plus - I'm scheming on a ride to Denver in early June for work (instead of flying). It would be nice to get the LeMans sorted in time and then give it a little endurance test.

Good advice. To supply the signal to the voltmeter, I ended up using another one of the yellow wires that went to a dash light; these are alive with the key on and headlight relay removed. I was able to get a correct reading on the voltmeter. I also now see what you mean by the stepper motor. The voltmeter must use the same type of stepper motor, because the needle stayed up at 12v after I turned off the ignition switch. The voltmeter needle returns to 0 as part of it's startup routine, so a well-timed on-off gets it to rest at 0. I'm really glad you mentioned that, because I would have been puzzled otherwise - and probably would have assumed that I messed up the wiring. Cheers to Kiwi_Roy!

You should also read through Chamberlin's restoration thread. I "followed" the thread, because I keep referring back to it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&hl= Hi Scud, FWIW many here set their valve clearance to .006 intake/.008" exhaust. When I set mine to .004/.006 my bike would sometimes stall after being run hard in hot weather. Opening up the valve lash and balancing the throttle bodies cured that issue for me. Here's an quick & easy way to adjust your valve lash for the next time since you shouldn't have to retorque the head again. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17247&page=2&hl=%2Bvalve+%2Badjust&do=findComment&comment=191378 Thanks, I had seen that alternate setting mentioned, but I didn't understand the issue. I didn't re-torque the heads, so maybe I should do that, just to be on the safe side, and try those looser settings as hard running in hot weather seems very likely. I recently built one of those DIY manometers - need to try it out.

Thanks Roy. Seeing your and Chamberlin's (agreed stunning) installations gave me the confidence to try these gauges. But despite Chamberlin's meticulous photo-documentation, I didn't see how he secured the gauges to the dash. Straps: The ones I made from metal roll-strap and split vacuum hoses are only for the smaller volt and oil gauges, which are add-ons - I'm not using that type with the speedo and tach - trying to keep as stock-looking as possible for those. Wiring: Thanks for the tip on connecting the volt meter. I wonder if the same logic applies to the red wire from the ITI tach plug (in hand in photo in post #13). I'll test that this evening. It would be nice to re-use wires that are no longer needed. Inverter: One inverter can power 7 (IIRC) gauges - and it comes with a daisy-chain with plugs that go to each gauge (the black box and black wires with a red zip tie pictured at left in post #14)

ah technology... it either frees us or freezes us. I've gotten very comfortable with GPS navigation on my dirt bike, in fact, used the handheld Garmin on the handlebars as a speedometer. Anyway, I've been trying to figure out how to use the stock gauge cover, because I'd prefer not to cut it down. Here's what I've got so far: A bracket made from home-electrical parts - the stuff that is supposed to be used to mount lamps in ceiling boxes. I cut the ends of the bracket and ground them round-ish to fit inside the cover. Here's how I think I can glue the brass cap nut to the gauge, then screw in the whole assembly to replicate the base of the stock gauge, where the rubber vibration dampers screw in. With the threads to adjust the height, and some play along the grooves in the bracket, I should be able to use the cap nuts to secure the whole assembly. I suppose I'll need to cover that huge hole like Roy did, but for now, it's nice to see how everything fits. I also ordered some 80mm O-rings to place around the gauges between 1) gauge and dash, and 2) dash and plastic cover. I think these may do the job of the rubber bushings that go around the stock gauges - to keep them from rattling in the dash. Comments or suggestions to improve?

When I talked with a someone at Speedhut, they said it was ok to stick it behind the fairing - so long as it is not directly under metal. The LeMans fairing has more than ample room to hide it out of sight. I think it could also be easily hidden behind the smaller sport fairing.

Docc - looks like you got the same measurement in both pictures, which makes sense, because they are both of the left. Did you take a picture of the right side too?

For anyone else thinking of these gauges, here is a photo of how I wired the power and lights to all four gauges. Speedhut's directions are pretty good and I have only a base knowledge of electronics. Per Roy's suggestion, I used the feeds to the light bulbs for the stock gauges. That's especially handy, because those lights are no longer needed anyway. Power to the gauges is provided through the red, white, and black connectors (each gauge has a matching plug). I used one light bulb feed for that - but that one takes two power sources, the other (white wire) is supposed to join with the inverter at a dash light power source. The inverter (little black box) powers the lights in the gauges via the two-wire black connectors (each gauge has a matching plug.) Just to keep myself straight, I used a second light bulb feed for that. Each gauge has one more wire - for the signal it measures. I will put the GPS receiver under the plastic inner-fairing tray. Tach connection was described above. The oil pressure signal comes from a replacement sender (the placement of which I almost have figured out). I still don't know where to get the signal for the voltmeter, but I have a long wire. To mount the volt and oil gauges, I made giant P-clamps from metal strap (the hardware-store stuff that comes in a roll) and split some vacuum line as a bushing for the inside. I was only trying to mock them up temporarily, but then I thought they looked pretty cool - I'll paint before final assembly. BTW - gauges are not connected in this photo - but that's simple - just connect the matching plugs. I tested it - all four gauges light up and do the start-up needle-blip.

JB - what road is that?

Those are Guzzi's factory-aftermarket exhaust/pillion peg brackets to go with the Titanium exhaust; they are correctly mounted. Exhaust cans were also part of the factory Titanium Kit Racing accessory, along with a new ECU. I didn't get the original hangers, exhaust, or ECU. This kit mounts the pipes higher and tighter than stock, which looks cool but makes it impossible to mount standard luggage racks. I think that's why the PO disassembled the cans and shortened them (he used some soft luggage). Now they have the same good-looking angle, but they don't go so close to the turn signals. Anyway, they sound great, but they're not in great shape cosmetically, so I'm going to run them for a while and decide later. The stock crossover is good enough for me - though lots of other people like aftermarket crossovers.

It's not going to make it back together this weekend. But here's some progress and/or lessons learned: Valve Adjustment I just did the quickest and easiest valve adjustment of any vehicle I've ever owned, thanks for the how-to thread. Left was correct, right intake was too tight, right exhaust too loose (using .004 and .006 inch for Intake and Exhaust). While I was there, I installed new plugs, plug caps, head guards (from Harper's with stainless bolts included), and new exhaust flange nuts and washers - no rust allowed! Should have had some valve cover gaskets on hand. Title and registration I finally got it registered today and got a license plate. It was previously registered in Florida (although originally sold in CA and probably never even left the state). But having out-of-state paperwork means more rules. One of which is that a used vehicle must have over 7,500 miles on it or be treated like a new vehicle (PITA). Given that the odometer stopped working around 5,000, my Speedhut odometer arrived with the "corrected" actual mileage (over 7,500) and today I was able to show everything that facilitated box checking and form filling... (good thing the PO left all the Federally required stickers on too). Shift lever Learned a few things about this. First, a crash that's strong enough to break the shift lever is also strong enough to bend the pivot bolt and the tab on the frame that the pivot bolt goes into. Once I finally figured that out, got a straight bolt, and straightened the tab, everything went together perfectly (with the welded shift lever) and it shifts well (at least on the stand). The other thing is that shift levers are not interchangeable between early and late V11s. A member here sold me his spare from a bike built in 2000, but it is wider than the one that came off the bike. I'm awaiting one of Harper's aftermarket billet levers now. I have to also say - Harper's has been fantastic. A guy stayed on the phone with me while I went through a long list of little brackets, bolts, fittings, etc. In addition to a few bigger items (head guards, new kickstand, etc) I got bags and bags of little parts - all clearly labeled with the part numbers so I could sort them out into related mini-project piles - such as fairing, starter cover, and shock reservoir mount. Their online parts diagram/catalog is incredibly useful - and some of the prices for the little brackets and such are surprisingly low.

Thanks for this thread. The suggestion to use the yellow wire from a dash light for power was super-helpful. The ITI lights each have a pair of yellow (switched power) and black (ground) wires, so I used the two pairs from the speedo side to hook up: The supplied inline fuse (3 amp) to their multi-plug mini-harness (and ground) for switched power to the gauges The supplied tiny inverter (and ground) to power the gauge lights (through their multi-plug mini-harness) I'll be powering and lighting four gauges from these mini-harnesses. GPS Speedo (already powered up and locked a GPS signal) Tach (already powered up) Oil Pressure (not connected yet) Voltage (not connected yet) The oil pressure gauge looks pretty straightforward and comes with a pressure sending unit. I needed to get a 1/8 NPT female to Metric 12x1.5 male adapter so it would fit where the stock oil pressure switch goes. The supplied sending unit is quite large, so I will probably get some 1/8 NPT threaded braided line and relocate it inconspicuously. Based on previous posts, I see that I should connect the green and yellow wire from the tach to the yellow (with black stripe) wire from the plug-in tach connector on the original harness. (You guys are making this easy for me). Some questions: Voltmeter - is there a wire in the dash that I can use? If yes, which one? and if no, where should I connect the feed for the voltmeter? (the Speedhut instructions just say "...volt source to be measured.") Leftovers - after I snip off the two remaining ITI gauge lights and stock tach plug (in hand in photo) is it best to just wrap the ends in tape - or should I join all three blacks and the two yellows from the lights? (I realize this is an Electronics 101 question - and that's about my level). BTW - the wire nuts are just there temporarily. I'll solder and wrap it all properly once everything is connected and working.

Working on getting the Speedhut gauges installed. The thread "Installing Speedhut Gauges" is useful. I hope to rig up something to mount the oil pressure and voltage gauges either from the fairing bracket (as currently taped on) or on the large plastic panel inside the fairing. For now, just trying to make sure they all work correctly. So far, I got them to power up, light up, and acquire a GPS signal. ...and something must be done about those fluid tanks and blue hoses...

Are these drawings available on the site somewhere? I searched a bit could not find them. Thanks. I downloaded the workshop manual already. When you said factory drawings, I assumed it was something else.

Are these drawings available on the site somewhere? I searched a bit could not find them.

I happen to have the tank off right now. I measured 124mm from spine to base of LH rocker cover, and 133mm from spine to base of RH rocker cover - the same 9mm difference that Docc mentioned. The V11 "hangs to the right." But it's only offset from center by half of 9mm (4.5mm). Not sure what to do with this information, but at least we saved Craig from trying to straighten his out. What a bunch of geeky motorheads we are.

Which way does yours tilt? I have to fix this, now that I have noticed, it will drive me nuts. The asymmetry is in the engine, not the tank. The RH cylinder is forward of the LH cylinder. This is because the connecting rods cannot meet at exactly the same spot on the crankshaft. Therefore the RH rocker cover is more forward and is more exposed than the LH. No fixing this... just enjoy it. That being said, you could still have issues with hose or wire routing. The emissions hoses can be relocated to a box of spare parts (or replaced with simple vacuum lines). I've been having a hard time getting my airbox to sit correctly because of all the hoses and wires that run underneath. This could possibly tilt your tank.

I just received and installed a set of short Pazzo levers from MotoMummy.com (on sale for $149 and free shipping). MotoMummy would not advise me or show me pictures of the levers due to "liability reasons." But I decided to give it a go anyway and pretended that I had a 1998 Ducati 748 (always liked those...). The Pazzo part numbers are DB-12 (Brake) and DC-12 (clutch). The order came with a list that specified 10 different Ducatis that they fit. I edited the list from the above post to match the information I received. Monster M400: 1999-2003 Monster M600: 1994-2001 Monster M 620: 2002 Monster M750/M750IE: 1994-2002 Monster M900: 1994-99 900SS: 1991-97 748: up to 1998 916/916SPS: up to 1998 ST2: 1998-03 ST4/S/ABS: 1999-02 Several other Ducatis use the same clutch lever, but a different brake lever. I only listed the bikes that show both levers the same as what I installed. Here are the short Pazzos next to the stock levers. The contact points are exactly the same. They work fine and they make correct contact with the clutch and brake switches. I adjusted the actuator-screws so they stuck out the same distance as the stock levers. And here's a pic of one lever installed. Not even a remote possibility of interference with the bar-end mirrors. Happy hunting for cheap used replacements or shiny aftermarket levers. Duc Duc Goose.

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Got the steering damper mounted properly - thanks again Docc for the alert to the Shindy damper and the photos of how you mounted it. It's smooth as silk (but obviously I haven't road-tested it yet). My electricity lessons continue - ran a battery tender cable to inside the fairing (with lap solder and heat shrink). Don't know why I started using crimp-on connections a while back, soldering is sooooo much better. Put the battery back in, along with all lights (except for front turn signals, which are fairing-mounted.) The big moment - everything actually worked. That means I didn't screw up the 30 amp fuse or the replacement fuse block. Whew.... relief. The PO had rigged some rusty brackets to attach the taillight and license plate to the stock subframe bracket - and no turn signals or plate light. The rust from the brackets had spread to the (now powder coated) stock bracket. Here's how the tail section turned out. I shortened the stock fender, blacked out the taillight base and some fasteners, and tinted the lenses (2 coats on the signals and 1 coat on the taillight). After seeing this, I might have to go a shade darker on the Scura I'm hoping for a few deliveries this week.

Hmm... so many opinions. And thanks for commenting - brakes are important and I want to do the work right. I was about to use brake cleaner when a trusted person suggested I use WD-40 instead. This person does all his own maintenance and his vehicles, including motorcycles, are always in great condition. He said brake cleaner damages the seals. FWIW - I also dried them with compressed air so as to not leave any extra WD-40 sitting around. My main concern was to be sure the WD-40 never came in anywhere near the pads. So - do you think should I pop 'em off again and reclean with brake cleaner, then lube with silicon spray? FYI - I did get the pistons all moving freely, but not at exactly the same pace. On the front calipers with 2 pistons clamped, when I pushed one piston in the other went out. I figured that was pretty free.

Glad you're enjoying the story. Next installment: She's cleaned up quite well. Simple Green and Silicon Spray did wonders to the bike - the engine and wheels were the worst - kind of chalky. Naval Jelly also does a fantastic job of getting rid of light surface rust (like on the exhaust studs and a few other spots.) And WD-40 is a great solvent to clean brake calipers (take the pads out first). Got all the powdercoated bits back on (you can see sidestand, fairing bracket, and dash in the above pic). Reset forks to stock height (PO had raised forks above clamps to lower the bike) Reinstalled exhaust (so much easier without the crossover). Adjusted all suspension settings to factory specs (they were way off, the forks weren't even set the same as each other) Tried to install Shindy steering damper - the Bitubo had a sticky spot in the middle. I need to go get more spacers, washers, bolts, etc to do it correctly. This thread re the steering damper is very helpful. Went for a sunset ride on the Scura as a reward (she's been very helpful recently - even better than a parts diagram). Here's a tip for anybody who finds the helmet lock unattractive, but doesn't want to cut the tab off the frame. Grind the things that look like rivets flat (they're actually screws), then use a small triangular file to put some slots in the rivets, then take it off with a screwdriver.