Scud

I have never tried to get grease inside a sealed bearing - but I do grease the mating surfaces to ease installation. For removal - heat the swingarm around the bearing, maybe shoot some freeze spray on the bearing. Slide that hammer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not mine... no association with seller... just noticed a very good price on a complete, low-mileage clutch. Good option for anybody still needing to replace a single-plate unit in a Scura or Tenni. You'd just need to buy a new transmission input hub, and maybe some new springs. While this is out of a Breva, you can see that it is the same 10-spring configuration as the V11 clutch. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-BREVA-V1100-V11-06-1100-CLUTCH-HUB-FLYWHEEL-STARTER-GEAR-DISCS-PLATES-/272609004582?hash=item3f78c34c26:g:~CkAAOSwaeRZJH5N&vxp=mtr

Asks the man who has started a whole topic on hammers...

I don't think it matters what way it goes in. Rollers spin in the caged part. I also thought the replacement looked weaker than the original. I did talk to gordon at MG Cycle about it. Gordon said they sometimes get one kind and sometimes the other. He thinks there's no practical real-world difference in performance or longevity.

That's cool, but in my opinion, the standard drain plug is not inconvenient. It's not the expense only, it's that part is solving a problem I don't have. If I was having a problem and this part would solve it I would gladly pay $50.

I've had those powdercoated on two V11s. In both cases, I removed the swingarm first. I put the front wheel in a wheel-chock, then supported the transmission with a platform jack. While you've got the plates off, it's easy to remove the lower subframe and have that powdercoated at the same time. The bike will stay together like that, but if you want a little extra security you could probably buy one used plate to hold it all together. Make sure they don't get any powder in the fine threads for the swingarm pivot bolts, but if they do, aircraft paint stripper will remove it.

+1

So... another possible culprit... the exhaust gasket on side with the exhaust leak just fell out, while the one on other side was very difficult to remove. And one stud on the leaking side ran out of thread before I could tighten the exhaust - so I put in an extra washer. Also noticed that the steering damper was very notchy - so I ditched it. Anyways... get her close to back together (and the little tart swiped the Titanium exhaust from the Champagne LeMans). I must have done something wrong, because I've got crank, but no start. Once I get it to start again, I'll dig into all the electronic and ECU advice. Meanwhile, gratuitous greenie picture...

cross-post from WG: Apple Boysenberry pie in Julian, CA this morning... And took a whole frozen chicken-pot-pie home in the wee-brick's bag Here's a teaser pic of a less-travelled minor road in the area. I stopped by the Lake Henshaw campground after a nice little zip through Mesa Grande. Seems like good people there and a good spot for a rally. They are not worried about check-in or check-out times in October (off-peak) and said not to worry about making a reservation for camping. I'll probably pull my toy-hauler out there so I have a cozy place to sleep and my own kitchen. I can accommodate two Guzzi-Guests comfortably - and a third if somebody wants me to set up the truck-bed-tent. Then I went up Palomar Mountain's East Grade, which is lovely. Then down the South Grade, which was full of road racers and photographers - great road, but that's why I usually avoid it on the weekends.

There's a saying: "buy the owner, not the bike." The fact that the previous owner has made the upgrade and has some spares on-board suggests that he is well-informed and has taken good care of the bike. This is a great sign for you.

Entertaining and informative thread here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18602 But you've gotten so far along already, you may as well remove the swingarm and check the bearings, and lube the upper shock-mount bolt. With everything out of the way, you can also remove any rust from the parts and apply a little grease to the output shaft so water cannot get trapped at the driveshaft coupling. I use Staburags grease. It's a very thick brush-on grease - not the same as goes inside the joints.

Great adventure and a great bike. IMO the Tenni is far better looking than the Coppa Italia. Congratulations. Glad you had a few days on fabulous roads to get used to her. I've ridden by Pinnacles many times (on 101 as you did, but the better road to other entrance is route 25) but I've never been into the park. Gotta get there one day.

Hey Cory - A V11 - and living in the Eastern Sierra. What a playground for motorcycles - It's a treat for me when I can a V11 into the Sierras. Interesting combo of bikes (similar to me). I find that my K75 does quite well at altitude. And I've been thinking about another ADV bike - how do you like the BMW Sertao?

She got bumped down in the project queue by the Greenie. No recent updates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That picture at valpolini looked is exactly like the aluminum flywheel and clutch assembly I took out of my Scura - and does not look like the Ram unit I installed; which has a steel flywheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The red on the 2002 LeMans is a great color. If you can match it, I think that would be perfect for the belly pan. Then all the bike's leading edges will be red - front fender, fairing, and belly pan.

Clean and re-assemble is a good plan. That safety washer was damaged, and therefore should be replaced. For what it's worth, when my LeMans clutch started slipping, I installed new friction plates, springs, and intermediate plate. I just roughed up the pressure plate and friction surface of the starter ring with coarse sandpaper. But in retrospect, I could have gotten away with only replacing 5 springs. The friction plates still had life in them. I think that alternating 5 original and 5 heavy springs would have extended the life of the original parts significantly. Re flywheel bolts - I've heard that you should not re-use them. I don't know if that's true - or just people repeating gossip... but like you said, new fasteners are cheap. I think I may have 5 heavy springs I can send you - but not till Saturday. But they're only like $2.00 each at MG Cycle. You can also get a new intermediate plate for about $25. That will give you two fresh surfaces.

And of course a new "star" washer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So... after all this discussion about possible replacements I'll just throw in what I would do if this was my bike: new seals where leaking, 5 new stiffer clutch springs (alternate with 5 originals), new throwout bearing (preventative measure). From there, measure the other clutch internals - and run them as-is if possible. I've seen pictures of much worse input hubs and flywheels. You can always do a complete replacement later - during the winter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are still intrigued by the RAM, you should talk to Gordon at MG Cycle. The current friction plate is totally different than it was some years ago. I'm happy with mine so far, but the long-term test has only just begun.

Docc, you can read me? Don't go this route. The standard V11 clutch assembly is already on the (lower) edge mass-wise. If you want to put some more dynamics into your ride then better invest in lighter wheels. These infact are too massy. Engine braking will not be reduced, it will be increased. Pulse loads on the drive train won't be reduced, they'll be increased. Clutch problems wont be reduced - think you get the picture from here on. Idle won't be improved. Spare situation won't be improved.... Instead, IAEF, I'd investigate possibilities to switch to heavier LMIII assemblies for instance. Guzziology quotes a fast bike that uses an old Eldo clutch, that's maybe twice the weight of a V11 one. He seemed quite happy with it. Or you just stick the parts together and have fun with your V11 as it is. Don't know why this option usually is so grossly underestimated. Good point that last one. The problem was a loose input hub. Fasten it correctly and ride it. You would not have taken it apart just now if it wasn't for that problem. Maybe toss in some fresh clutch springs since you're there. I rather like the RAM clutch, however. And they do make replacement friction plates that are the same for 5 and 6 speed clutches. Engine braking is a function of compression, not clutch mass. Clutch mass effects how quickly everything settles in. Lower mass gives you a quicker response to changes.

Ha... this gets confusing, huh? It'd be easier if we were sitting around a table with all the parts spread out - and if there was still some room on the table for I got one of the last 6-speed Ram Clutches, so my spare input gear is for a 6-speed.

Or maybe you are the first person in the whole world to connect GuzziDiag while the transmission is out of the bike...

I'm in Milwaukee, WI without my V11. Nuthin but cars and Harley's. I like that Jackal too. Let's pool our spare time and money and build a JackMans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm no machinist, but I do wonder if the push-button can be machined without being removed. I have a spare input gear that came with my Ram clutch. Didn't use it because the one in Scura was still good. If you get this figured out I'd like a matching set for future use. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk