Scud Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 The clutch is really good. Much firmer than it was before, which I attribute to the new springs. But I have to pull it all the way in to get it to disengage - perhaps some small adjustments will get it to release differently. It hooks up quickly and there's no more slippage. I haven't been on a long ride yet, because I've been fighting that oil leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 With the rear wheel up in the air ( on bike stand ) put the trans in gear and pull the clutch lever all the way " in " . The rear wheel should spin freely. If there is much resistance you have a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Rear wheel spins the same in neutral and in gear with clutch pulled in. It's just that the lever takes more effort than it did before, and it takes a full pull to disengage - unlike my Scura, which takes less effort and disengages with less travel at the lever. I just went for a quick 50-mile loop and missed a couple downshifts when I failed to pull it in all the way. Further update: I installed this sweet black-face thermometer today, which I got from MG Cycle. I can't think of any good reason to have one except it's fun to look at. You know what's not fun to look at? That puddle of oil on the floor. I thought I was going to be alright after a short trip around the block, so I went out and got it properly heated up. Made a mess... The leak is coming from between the block and the sump ring, at the back, under the transmission, where I just installed the Roper Plate. It leaked with dry gaskets, so I cleaned it, used new gaskets and the sealer Pete Roper recommended (ThreeBond 1211) on al four mating surfaces. I carefully torqued every bolt, waited 24 hours and checked torque again. This bike is pissing me off - and it was otherwise soooooo perfect on my little loop. I wanted to go far. To my long list of stuff that was wrong with this bike, I need to add that the upper sump ring has had a too-large bolt forced in for the lower sidestand. I didn't notice that till recently - but that's not where the leak is. I'll probably get a new ring and install that with my next attempt at fixing this leak. Alternatively, I'm going back in time, not buying this bike, and waiting for pristine, low-mileage Nero Corsa. I like working on things - but I like riding much more. This one just reveals a new problem every time I fix a known problem. It didn't leak a drop before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Once again, I'm sorry dude.... The Guzzi gods just won't let a guy have two perfect spine frames at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Scud- breath deep. It could be something besides the gasket surfaces. That seems like a lot of oil for just seepage. Maybe something else was disturbed/cracked/etc during the plate install. Drain plug issues? I only suggest because it usually winds up being something stupid simple for me. Anyway, it's just a a hunk of iron. It will be sorted. And shop fail is better than road fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 ...shop fail is better than road fail. Good perspective. I'll be away for a couple weeks and really wanted to have it ready for a proper ride on my return. Drain plug is still dry. The engine came out and went back in smoothly for the clutch work - I didn't have any difficulty that would make me think something got damaged. It seems to be weeping out the back between upper ring and block (where the plate goes), and mostly going toward the left - actively dripping when hot and on the sidestand - then stops after sitting a few minutes. I can't see any way that the plate itself could leak, but I think the plate collects some oil on top - so standing oil on top of the plate could reveal a hidden problem like (and I don't want to think about this) a crack in the block. Since problems often relate to the most recently done work or change, maybe I'll try again with the plate removed and see if it still leaks. Plenty of time to think about it....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Carl Allison said "The 2002 models had the black paint on the sealing surfaces and bolt holes, shaft seal surfaces etc. This led to a lot of sealing problems." A cracked engine casing can leak, and be difficult to spot. Belfast Guzzi mentions a leak caused by a cracked timing cover. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11429&hl=%20casing%20%20crack A comment about kick stand attachments http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13357&hl=%20casing%20%20crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Could the oil be what's collecting in the spine draining down the hose, It would drip out for a while after a run. Perhaps disconnect the hose and run if into a bottle to check. Sent from my shoe phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 This is for my 2003 LeMans - with the improved paint. The oil return line was still clean, except for the fitting, which obviously had oil flowing to it from above. I think I will have time to clean it really well, and spray the offending area with foot powder before I leave on Thursday. This time, I'll just let it idle till I see the leak start. It's very difficult to see exactly what's going on (and harder to get a picture), because it's all tucked in between headers, crossover, block and transmission. It's the Guzzi's "taint". In one of the threads Marty linked to, FalcoLion said he could get the sump rings for a good price, so I've sent an inquiry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 It's the Guzzi's "taint". Oh! Oh, my! That! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 It's the Guzzi's "taint". Oh! Oh, my! That! ok that's gross besides, it's Italian.... everything has a purpose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Pardon the dirty biological humor. Let's be scientific and sanitary now. Step 1: How it's supposed to look under there. (Don't say "underwear" or you will have fallen for the oldest and worst joke ever.) All degreased and blown out with compressed air. Step 2: spray with foot powder, warm it up at idle... no problem... ride around the neighborhood a bit, possibly seeing first signs of seepage... ride it hard for 1/2 mile... and then we have our evidence: And I happened to notice this oil seeping out of the plug on the bell housing, where Czakky stores his used wine corks. It's supposed to be all dry and sanitary in there - and it was when I did the clutch. I'm assuming a bad rear main seal at this point. Has anyone seen this before - and can confirm my diagnosis or suggest an alternative? She's running soooooo good.... I am not looking forward to taking the engine out again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Hmm... I found this very useful thread about the same type of leak that plagued Docc for a while. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18243&page=1 Will order in all the appropriate hoses and O-rings to address the non-engine out issues. Since I just had the engine out for the clutch, it makes sense that I may have disturbed things that were not previously leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Hmm... I may have disturbed things that were not previously leaking.I had a "leaky rear main oil seal" when I bought my bike, and fixed it by replacing the Breather Hose part no GU30157400. When you look for the breather hose, it is hard to see, let alone see why a leak from a breather hose finds it's way into the clutch housing. You usually can't see any cracks in the hose when it is installed either, and tightening the hose clamps can make the leak worse. The rubber gets brittle with age, and gets tiny cracks just like the throttle body rubbers do. I think that these parts should be replaced every ten years, or less, regardless of appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Here's to the easy fix... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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