bzane Posted June 9 Posted June 9 A data point... For the past several thousand miles, after an exhaust/PC3, I haven't had much 2700-3100rpm problems, until yesterday. 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. 1
Pressureangle Posted June 9 Posted June 9 7 minutes ago, bzane said: A data point... For the past several thousand miles, after an exhaust/PC3, I haven't had much 2700-3100rpm problems, until yesterday. 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. Stop for water, get water.
docc Posted June 10 Posted June 10 1 hour ago, bzane said: 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all. Recent shop work is always an issue. A "satisfactory state of affairs" might have been disturbed (Waddington Effect). The "something unrelated" may have disturbed "something unrelated." What was the work done by the shop? What with the vacuum taps accepting "rubber" ( I use silicone) caps, I am interested in the "ball bearing" method . . . 1
bzane Posted June 10 Posted June 10 The unrelated work was replacement of the "differential" (ouch) and then another set of rear wheel bearings. When I first noticed the short tubes on the throttle bodies, I thought they looked sort of kludgy, especially since they were open. Silicone caps on the nipples make more sense. Ball bearing method was literally a ball bearing smaller than the inner diameter of the tube being pushed in far enough to block the tubes. The ball bearing size is, you guessed it, the bearings out of the blown rear bearing races. I'll google for silicone nipple caps. Might be a big response. 1
docc Posted June 10 Posted June 10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JJ7QY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Lucky Phil Posted June 10 Posted June 10 5 hours ago, bzane said: The unrelated work was replacement of the "differential" (ouch) and then another set of rear wheel bearings. When I first noticed the short tubes on the throttle bodies, I thought they looked sort of kludgy, especially since they were open. Silicone caps on the nipples make more sense. Ball bearing method was literally a ball bearing smaller than the inner diameter of the tube being pushed in far enough to block the tubes. The ball bearing size is, you guessed it, the bearings out of the blown rear bearing races. I'll google for silicone nipple caps. Might be a big response. What makes even more sense is to remove the inlet manifold nipples and replace them with blanking screws. Store the nipples with your balancer. I mean how often do you do a TB balance? Certainly not enough to warrant carting them around permanently and messing about with rubber caps which are prone to degrading and leaking. Phil 2
GuzziMoto Posted June 12 Posted June 12 (edited) I agree with Phil. But another option, a third option, is to connect the two nipples with a proper size hose. Some people seem to think that connecting them with a hose helps. I don't think that is true. But for sure connecting the two nipples stops the air leak that would occur if the nipples were open. Side note, an easy test would be to open the nipples back up and see if it runs better that way. Clearly it should not run better like that, but you never know. And since blocking them off is one of the three things that changed when it started running less well, putting it back would be an easy way to eliminate that as the source of your running issues. Edited June 12 by GuzziMoto 1
bzane Posted June 30 Posted June 30 IT IS ALWAYS THE RELAYS. A few days after this, it spit and sputtered at all revs and then died and wouldn't restart. Towed home. Wouldn't restart even after sitting all night on a tender. Replaced the relays and all is well! Had ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XN2VSZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title same day as previous post. Was cheaper and is 102 pieces. So, I have 100 left. Anybody want some? By all metrics, the bike should not run better without the caps. Will, out of curiosity, remove them mid-ride. Will report if it actually runs better. Plugs indicated it was running a little rich, so maybe the air leak leaned it a little. I thus leaned the mixture, now have mild popping on 5K-6K deccel, but in the good range. The 3K behavior is stellar with current mix and config. Years ago, before I was aware these had EEPROM maps, I got the power commander PC3. Is running so well now, I'm keeping it just the way it is. Riding mostly between 4500-6000rpm, the MPG is 39 on mix of freeway, back roads, SoCal twisties. Next up, a "Decent Tune"
bzane Posted June 30 Posted June 30 Okay, not always the relays. Went to take my morning ride, and the starter didn't do anything. Not clicks, even. Checked the 30A fuse, was blown. Now fuses are part of my under-hump kit. However, will say that it was sweet enough that it worked fine on my ride yesterday and worked for two water-stops and a fuel stop. So is may be becoming a sweet, thoughtful bike. TPS question - is sometimes harsh coming back on throttle in a turn. Like an aged cush drive so I bought new rubbers and will drill them and install when I next change tires. However I've noted that if I go thru a turn with negligible throttle to reduce slack, there is no harshness. Wonder if it is actually TPS, which is part of Decent Tune? Will find out...
PJPR01 Posted July 1 Posted July 1 What do you mean by drill new rubbers? Do you mean the rubber sleeves connecting the throttle bodies? TPS doesn't have any rubber in it but needs to be precisely set at 157 millivolts. Confused by the note above.
audiomick Posted July 1 Posted July 1 25 minutes ago, PJPR01 said: What do you mean by drill new rubbers? ... The dampers in the cush drive. There is a school of thought that says they work better if one drills a hole in the blocks. Sounds plausible enough, but I've not felt the need to try it. 1 1
PJPR01 Posted July 1 Posted July 1 Oh i see...to make them more like Swiss cheese so they "flex" a bit? Interesting approach...never heard of that being applied to bushings before on a motorcycle or car. Seems like it would render the structure more unstable and prone to cracking, I suppose it depends on the size of the hole drilled into the rubber. 1
Speedfrog Posted July 2 Posted July 2 @PJPR01 you should read this thread by old Guzzi hand @Greg Field if you’re interested in learning more about our V11’s cush drive. 1 1
Lucky Phil Posted July 2 Posted July 2 (edited) 22 hours ago, Speedfrog said: @PJPR01 you should read this thread by old Guzzi hand @Greg Field if you’re interested in learning more about our V11’s cush drive. What sort of lunatic advises on avoiding engine braking! I mean seriously. Avoid "engine braking" to save your drive splines. How are you supposed to ride the bike? Every time you get off the throttle you pull the clutch in? Docc your bike has done a lot of miles, hows the drive splines look? How many have you needed to replace? This advice is up there with not blipping the throttle for downshifts. Maintenance and lubrication is the issue not engine braking which in fact is a minor load on the splines compared to the loads from accelerating the mass of the bike. As for drilling holes in the cush rubbers, well thats a stick your finger in the air and have a guess backyard hackers solution. It's not hard to measure the shore hardness of rubber and if you need something less hard then you can buy liquid Polyurethane in the hardness you desire make a simple mould and mould what you "think" you need. Phil Edited July 2 by Lucky Phil 2 1
docc Posted July 2 Posted July 2 No issues with drive spline wear at these miles. And I engine brake and rip out of the curves like a jackrabbit on hot lava. Pretty sure @MartyNZ did the cush rubber drilling. I would trust his opinion of the outcome. Regarding maintenance and lubrication, I am a big fan of Klüber Staburags at every tire change . . . 3
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now