richard100t Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 OK now I've ridden the bike a few miles at different speeds & I think the problem is solved. Almost surely the rear axle nut not being tight enough caused that bolt to fail somehow. In any case the bike runs as well as a Guzzi should & the fix was $1.63 for the nut/bolt/washer. The tow home however was $75 Gawd only knows how much $$ I saved not trying to fix it on the roadside & limp it home lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 Richard, congrat's on what appears to be a simple fix, but is there need for further concern here? Y'er scarin' me, my friend. It sounds to me like you haven't been torquing the spindle (axle) nut properly. It needs a fairly hefty 88 ft-lbs. or 120 Nm. Careful not to torque it much more than this to avoid crushing the stock wheel spacers, which are known to be cheesy, and tend to easily deform. The bevel box "floats" on the axle per the parellogram design (preventing jacking under load), so the amount of torque on the spindle nut has no effect whatsoever on the movement of the bevel box and/or the torque arm. As Docc mentioned, the likely answer to the broken bolt is that either it was under-torqued and loosened up, over-torqued and fractured, or it was defective to start with. Again, glad you came out of it so well. How many Guzzisti d'you figure ran out to check theirs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Well one time I had tightened the nut too far & it caused something that made the brake grab the disk or something like that. So after that I always made sure that I never over tightened it again. Once I tightened the nut this time I realized that it was just a little too loose so I am assuming that was the cause of the problem. The bolt that failed hadnt loosened up because there was plenty of bolt through the end of the nut & it was still plenty tight. I'm thinking the damage happened like a lever action with the stress starting at the wheel & moving out the torque arm when I gave it gas or was leaning the bike Eventually the repeated stress/relax/stress on the bolt caused it to fail. I could be wrong but thats my theory of what happened. Btw I had been riding the bike for most of the season this year with the axle nut at that torque level so it did take a long time for that bolt to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I've just had same bolt snap for the second time! First time I had noticed it was loose and fixed it. This time I was 150 k's from home and my wife had to come with trailer a rescue me. Has anyone got further opinions why this would happen? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 For reference, this fastener? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I've just had same bolt snap for the second time! First time I had noticed it was loose and fixed it. This time I was 150 k's from home and my wife had to come with trailer a rescue me. Has anyone got further opinions why this would happen? Over tightened, poor fit or vibration here are the easy things to look at/fix Check the condition of the bushings in that arm, and the fit of the bolts into those bushings Check your cush drive for freedom of movement. Ensure the needle bearing in the nose of the bevel box (spindle starboard side) is in good shape Replace the bolt and Nylock Nut with Grade 8 material from a fastener supply. Do not use Stainless stock. Don't crank on it, its not necessary the bolt merely need to be tight enough to hold itself in place. The not so easy (to repair) is an excessive amount of vibration due to the needle bearing thats aft of the main support bearing for the drive yoke within the bevel box being shot. Easy test- grab the shaft drive back near the bevel and stir it. If that needle outfit is shot then you will get lateral movement. A lot of it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Yes that's the one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cash1000 Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Any suggestions how I replace the bush on the rear drive torque arm? See attached photo Guzzi parts list appears to only offer complete replacement of all the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 First , the rubber appears to be good. If it is o.k. then , take a flat file and file the surfaces flat on both sides of the inner portion and reinstall .Tighten the bolts to the correct torque and go ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I was looking at replacing those bushings myself, but I learned they are not available. Neither is the complete arm. A few months ago, when I talked with someone at Harpers Moto Guzzi, they said they were working with a machinist to create a new arm that would take a standard, replaceable bushing. Ideally, though, the suggested repair will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rox Lemans Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've just had same bolt snap for the second time! First time I had noticed it was loose and fixed it. This time I was 150 k's from home and my wife had to come with trailer a rescue me. Has anyone got further opinions why this would happen? I had a snapped one also . It's actually damaged the arm and needed a new one (thankfully Scud had one). Didn't think this was as common as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victor Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Cash, that bush must be changed.Agostini has the replacement or you can buy this ones http://www.ebay.de/itm/Silentbuchse-Motorlager-10x30x30mm-/171945540992 For the bolt use this type of bolt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-Shoulder-Bolt-Socket-Screw-Allen-Tool-Post-High-Tensile-Bolt-DIN7379-/300752788661?var=&hash=item8bb5edea12 obviously buy the right measure. Replacement is very easy ,lot of vids on youtube. Regards,Victor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Just noticed a complete arm with mounting hardware for $40 on e-bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-MOTO-GUZZI-SPORT-V11-REAR-BRAKE-STAY-/361303623288?hash=item541f5fc678:g:POAAAOSwZd1VVkL2&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewgnu Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Would it be possible to cut/chop out the old bushings and press a couple of spherical plain bearings in i wonder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 You could....and you would have a stiff arm linkage for this to work with / against . Think about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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