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Make absolutely sure the pump is not metal to metal ( pump to frame) causing the noise.

Did you explain to MPH the reason for the "need" for the drain plug ?

I think it is unanimous ,the owner had a brain tumor , drug issues or schizophrenic .

This is likely the parts that have worn out: you need to replace them as a set too. Besides, I do not have a vice nor a bench. Removing the drive pinion is going to be challenging, if I needed to.

Apologies @Steve Swan if you purchased the pump from MG Cycle then I'd ASS-ume it was Ok as they are pretty good and know Guzzis backwards. If the bike runs well, then it's probabaly fine. I'm too anal when it comes to that sort of thing. As I'm sure you're aware if a pump drastically didn't match the OEM ratings it could stress other components in this case the pressure control/relief valve, or even overwhelm it, in which case fuel pressure would rise, with all sorts of problems

There is no way I am going to find that plug. The only clue I can offer, is that in Gladewater, when I noticed the leak, I cleaned the transmission, the rim, the tire. I waited a moment, and there were any further leakage. Which reinforced my thinking that it was maybe overpressure oil that leaked, and it stopped. It only stopped because there were no more oil! if you think about it, the rear drive contains 0.230 liter of oil... next to nothing.

I completely agree. You are transforming an axial force from the driving pinion to rotate the ring gear. It is clear that without any lubricant, you are wearing down the teeth. More than the bearings, this is likely the weak point in the movement transmission.

Probably; but then you now have to add the unreliable shipping because they have removed the "de minimis" that exempted packages to go through customs below 800 USD. I would have gotten that plug one month from ordering it. But there is solace; MPH has the plug, so I am going to go get it today.

@guzzigary Thinking about it after the fact, in one of my previous posts, I think the drain plug dropped shortly before I stopped in Gladewater. I probably not have rode much with the oil wet tire. I cleaned it while in Gladewater, and I checked there wasn't any fresh oil after that. I regret to not have checked the oil drain plug was in place at that time. It simply never occurred to me that I could have lost it. This is a first. The only incident I had was at a dealership oil change for a car, they had not tightened the new oil filter, and I noticed the oil patch in my garage and rectified the situation.

I am (what a surprise ) behind in being ready to launch for the Mutton Run and MotOzarks next week. Needed to do the 18K service on my V85, but “Some People” — code for my sweet but focused spousal supervisor — had other priorities. As an example of her erroneous thinking, she believes it is more important to have the house look great for my German family visiting in mid-June. Lordy, wimmen. THIS is important … So, it seemed to me, given the small allowance of minutes I was granted, critical to find something motivational to keep me on mission. Did a quick search and thought this seemed right ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjkaWADdU9w Maybe young folks working on an overnighter these days find this helpful, but it almost put me to sleep. It sure did not keep me moving. Back to the digital drawing board. Now, THIS is more like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njw-g09XPmM Went from this … (yes, a clean work area is key) ... … to this in record time (for me, at least) … If my Perfect Pillion & Polish Princess will grant me a few more minutes today, I can get that back on, and, after R&R'ing the fluids in the gearbox and final-drive, declare my Guardia ready for combat operations. The visiting Germans? I get back from mutton and catfish two weeks before they descend here. Lots of time. Besides, the night before, I’ll play this … https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zEy4GNMJq0 Bill =========== Edited to apologize as I wasn't smart enough to get the y/t links to appear. Have done that before, but, sigh, aging and forgot. [edit: docc inserted the linked displays. Easy: copy and paste the YouTube URL directly into your post without using the linking tool "[--]".

@gstallons Thank you for your suggestion. I'll keep an eye open!

I did not match flow and pressure, since MG Cycle sells the Osias, i ass-u-me 'd the thing pushes gas at some rate comparable to the factory pump... Such thinking might not be terribly logical and unecessarily unwise, but burning up what remaining time i have left orbiting the sun, less now than before i decided to write this entertaining drivel, and unlike the folly of my youth, i don't let stuff like that take up any more space in my brain than i decide i want to give it. The LeMans starts quick, idles evenly and accelerates strong through the all gears from idle to 115, so the pump must give the LeMans what it needs. I just don't like the whine. But, hell, what Guzzi doesn't have a distant cousin who isn't a tractor... And when i want to ride something more like a horse drawn plow, i hop on my '27 Harley i built from parts (: Where can i source a Bosch fuel pump? Or, what's the part number? Thanks for suggesting the Bosch.

@p6x Dont know if it has been mentioned, but that plug might have fallen out two miles from home. I have a hard time believing you could stay upright on a greased tire for 200 miles, let alone have that rear drive keep spinning for that distance. Rear drive fluid has a distinctive odor...I think you could have caught a whiff of it sometime soon after the leak occurred. Maybe backtrack in the car for a short distance to get a visual of where the dump occurred? Might be a possibility, or maybe it's too late now. I hope another biker didn't go through your oil slick. Glad you made it home.

Your speedo works? Lucky

And a sissy bar, at least 3 feet long.

I don't know why anyone would put that much effort in and not go all the way with it. It needs much longer forks, spoke wheels with no unsightly brake rotors, and elongated shark-fin-tipped dual exhaust (preferably straight pipes without any baffles). I would also hose-clamp a couple highway pegs onto the headers.

As long as Mr. Darwin is allowed to have a say in it, that's ok.

Ah, hadn't noticed that. In the plastic bag next to that extraneous triple clamp...

Solutions tend to be evolutionary . . .

Oh dear....

I see at least one "leftover" relay . . . Then, I got a cramp in my leg looking at the 14" saddle height above the footpeg . . .

Yea docc, you don't get damage like that with Petes method. Thats a shop press support "gone wrong" situation. As for the weld it up solution I'd pass on that as well due to distortion issues. Phil

This happened to my V11 reardrive at an independent shop with many years of Guzzi experience and was their "tried and true" method to dismantle the Guzzi reardrive. While I did not witness the act, I got "The Call" that things had not gone well attempting to replace the seals and they were sending the unit "out" (that did not go well, either ) and would weld the crack. I asked if the crack was at 7:00 or 9:00 or what? They said, "Yes." Turns out, the flange split from the top at 11:00 (looking from the right side of the bike), down the back of the flange along the actual housing, to within an inch of the lower edge at 7:00; that close to breaking it off. I have taken V11 rear drives apart since, myself, without this drop-method. Maybe fine for the Quota drive with the narrow flange, but just a "heads-up" on that the larger "bell" flange of the V11 SpineFrames could be vulnerable.

Unless maybe the heat was from something a little more aggressive than the heat gun that Pete suggested?

Were you around to witness this happening docc? I've machined that flange off and if you look at the image above it's like 3mm thick at the box and about 2mm thick at the periphery. I still have the removed piece in the workshop. It would take some sort of 6 inch bench drop to break a section of that thing off even at the periphery. Now a ham fisted set up in a press I wouldn't doubt but a heat and drop on a wooden bench, hmm. Phil