All Activity

The red/green wire that had a wire nut at the end , did you connect it to anything ?

That makes a lot of sense! Phil

The bulb is in this circuit. IDK what r value is for the bulb , BUT i am happy.

With the trickle charger connected to the battery, test the voltage across the battery terminals (charge voltage). Most common "trickle chargers" will be below Odyssey's 13.2v minimum threshold.

I get 15.9Ω with this same test.

Did not start it up. I will do this tomorrow morning and report back. Need to get some better terminal connections for the jumper wire if I am going to fire up the motor.

12v/1.25 Amp

Did you start it to see if it charges with the jumper wire to the black wire of the regulator? Next, I would jumper the other side of the connector (battery voltage to the white wire and the connector rotated to connect the black --> red/black. I don't think the light will come on at all in that configuration. Looking for the charging voltage to come up while running above idle. . .

Good call on getting the approved charger. Odyssey states that float voltage below 13.2v will shorten battery life. What is your trickle charger's voltage?

I've always noticed that the RM's valve covers turn a little more orange over time. Is it the heat that affects the paint, UV rays or both? I don’t think that happens with powder coating, but the sheen might be different.

I replaced the blistered and bloated Odyssey last month with a new one, just before I started this thread. I've skimmed through your Odyssey Battery Conditioning thread (20+ pages!) and have ordered what I believe is an appropriate charger.(Battery Minder 128CEC2, which I believe replaces the older 12248 model). Will condition my battery asap, but I assume I can continue to troubleshoot my charging issues in the meantime. I am still keeping the battery on my trickle charger, which keeps the volts at 13-13.4, and I hope this isn't hurting the battery.

No battery light with a jumper wire from battery + attached, key on engine off......

How about running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the black wire into the regulator (turn the connector 90 degrees to leave the white->blue connected). KOEO: battery light on? Start up and normal charging at some rpm with no 4000 rpm light?

Haven't bread each response, on the road- but *any* wire circuit should show very near zero ohms. If the lamps are in this circuit, maybe ok. If not, a serious fault.

Just did this and the oil light fires up! There was a bit of corrosion in this connection, and I hit it with some Deoxit and wiped it down.

Tach, front and rear brake light switches are working

Just did this with key on/engine off, and the battery light did indeed light up. Are we making some progress here? I hope so!

for the Ballabio lh grey plate this turned up... https://ad.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/GU01415891

I normally web search the part number. For example this turned up for GU01415880 https://cadrecycle.com/product/lh-rear-fork-plate-cafe-sport/ I'm not sure how many models had grey or how many different greys they made. Valve covers. I believe the color you want came standard on the NC and the RC. Also looks like RM but I can't be sure. That's potentially a few p/n's to look for.

Coming home from the Spine Raid XXI I like to think of the wife and Susan calling me home. It makes the last 500 miles of the trip easier.

I think I have an extra set of frame plates and valve covers if you want to take them to a powder-coater or painter. I could sell them to you, or you could give me back your take-offs after you swap in the painted ones. We are only 100 miles apart.

Looking at this simplified diagram , you should be able to disconnect the two wire connector (blue wire & red/black wires) and apply 12v and - to these two wires and the gen light turn on. This will test the bulb and wiring circuit.

I so love Susan Tedeschi. Don't tell Derek Trucks. Or my wife. Great web find: Susan in 2001. No wonder Derek said, "Gotta marry that girl" . . .