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I've always noticed that the RM's valve covers turn a little more orange over time. Is it the heat that affects the paint, UV rays or both? I don’t think that happens with powder coating, but the sheen might be different.

I replaced the blistered and bloated Odyssey last month with a new one, just before I started this thread. I've skimmed through your Odyssey Battery Conditioning thread (20+ pages!) and have ordered what I believe is an appropriate charger.(Battery Minder 128CEC2, which I believe replaces the older 12248 model). Will condition my battery asap, but I assume I can continue to troubleshoot my charging issues in the meantime. I am still keeping the battery on my trickle charger, which keeps the volts at 13-13.4, and I hope this isn't hurting the battery.

No battery light with a jumper wire from battery + attached, key on engine off......

How about running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the black wire into the regulator (turn the connector 90 degrees to leave the white->blue connected). KOEO: battery light on? Start up and normal charging at some rpm with no 4000 rpm light?

Haven't bread each response, on the road- but *any* wire circuit should show very near zero ohms. If the lamps are in this circuit, maybe ok. If not, a serious fault.

Just did this and the oil light fires up! There was a bit of corrosion in this connection, and I hit it with some Deoxit and wiped it down.

Tach, front and rear brake light switches are working

Just did this with key on/engine off, and the battery light did indeed light up. Are we making some progress here? I hope so!

for the Ballabio lh grey plate this turned up... https://ad.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/GU01415891

I normally web search the part number. For example this turned up for GU01415880 https://cadrecycle.com/product/lh-rear-fork-plate-cafe-sport/ I'm not sure how many models had grey or how many different greys they made. Valve covers. I believe the color you want came standard on the NC and the RC. Also looks like RM but I can't be sure. That's potentially a few p/n's to look for.

Coming home from the Spine Raid XXI I like to think of the wife and Susan calling me home. It makes the last 500 miles of the trip easier.

I think I have an extra set of frame plates and valve covers if you want to take them to a powder-coater or painter. I could sell them to you, or you could give me back your take-offs after you swap in the painted ones. We are only 100 miles apart.

Looking at this simplified diagram , you should be able to disconnect the two wire connector (blue wire & red/black wires) and apply 12v and - to these two wires and the gen light turn on. This will test the bulb and wiring circuit.

I so love Susan Tedeschi. Don't tell Derek Trucks. Or my wife. Great web find: Susan in 2001. No wonder Derek said, "Gotta marry that girl" . . .

good suggestion, I will pour some Evan Williams and make some changes

I apologize if I was unclear in my reply. I was suggesting that the OP take the closeup picture of the valve cover in post #1 to a experienced powder coating shop to see how close they could match it. I was not suggesting he take the picture of my bike to do so. I live in a smallish town and there are two excellent shops that do this type of work close by. I don't know why you found this funny? Please explain.

Nicely simplified schematic. Just a note, that the red/black output from "Headlight" Relay (#2) does supply the brake light (also horns), but not the entire left switch cluster (i.e.: not the turn signals). Perhaps Fuse #5 (F5) should be indicated ahead of the Starter Relay. Turn signals are Fuse #7 (F7)

Mea culpa: I just realised I didn't do the math to the end here I've corrected myself there, and here

Mostly for helping myself to understand the circuit and the suggestions for troubleshooting, might be of help to others. If someone sees errors, I will correct them.

HEY HEY HEY . I'm not smart enuf to do that !

SamP , did you reconnect the red/green wire to the V reg ? Also , there should be continuity between the 2 pin connector consisting of a blue wire and a red/black on the regulator wiring harness of the bike wiring harness.

Let's talk batteries, @Sam P. Did you replace the "destroyed Odyssey" with another Odyssey, or something else? A voltage loss from 13.0 to 12.7 in an hour is not a good sign for an Odyssey. There are specific parameters to "condition" the Odyssey that may help contribute to a solution. "trickle chargers"/ "tender" are known to be damaging to the Odyssey battery unless the voltage is adequate, yet will not "charge" the Odyssey with sufficient amperage (at least 6 amps).

Here is the @Kiwi_Roy rendition ( hosted on @Weegie's dropbox ): https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?dl=0&e=1&preview=Guzzi+Wiring+-+Simple.pdf&rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu